The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Rebuild Forged Questions

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TORONTOTALON

15+ Year Contributor
37
0
Jan 18, 2005
Toronto,Scarborough,
Hello Fellow Tuners,

Just so you guys and gals have a little back round about my car I got the bottom end rebuilt all stock De Glazed cylinder walls new rings/pistons new bearings and balanced . I didn't do any sort of break in period like an idiot just started it let it idle bla bla bla. Long story short the rings now hold NO PRESSURE at all the air flows right by them when I do a leak down test.

So my questions are i'm going to be doing new rings and am wondering if I were to decide to do forged internals.

what needs to be done to the motor to take the forged internals before i put them in rebalance or special hone etc.?

Can i just hone the cylinder walls and through in forged piston/rods in?

And why is it when I do a leakdown test I get crazy blow by but I do a Compression test its perfect 145psi across the board?

It is a 6 Bolt and my profile is up to date.
 
Were the rings gapped correctly? Did you space the gaps apart? Even without breaking the engine in properly, you shouldn't have huge amounts of blowby. You're certain the air is escaping into the crankcase and not through the valves? Odd. Maybe the bore was out of round enough to not make a good seal.

I'm using forged pistons and rods. I had the cylinders bored and had the machinist use a torque plate. The pistons are usually balanced to each other very well, just like the rods. It doesn't hurt to have the entire rotating assembly balanced, though. They removed a bit of material from my crank as the new rod/piston assembly was lighter than stock.
 
after your rebuild dont you just let it idle for a couple minutes then change the oil and drive it at certain rpms?
 
Normally, it should only idle for a short time to verify timing and check for leaks. You quickly want to put a load on the engine (accelerate rather quickly to ~45 mph or so), then remove the load (let the throttle shut) and let the engine build high vacuum. The load forces the piston rings down in their bore and out against the cylinder walls allowing them to seat properly. Removing load forces them up in their bore also helping them to seat properly. Repeat those steps 2 to 3 times (some say up to 5). Then for the next 500 to 1000 miles or so, vary engine speed.
 
Postive its comeing from the crank case i have had the valve cover off when do the test....
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top