topline 8:1 pistons

[1gjosh]

I am in the process of a rebuild right now, and i was just curious about these pistons. Anyone have them? are they any good? I know they're not wiseco or JE or anything. But does anyone know how much power they can handle? Any info would be great. Thanks

-josh

 

[1gjosh]

Come on guys, please help me out. I'm waiting on some feedback so i can go ahead and put this thing together. I need to know if they are any good.

 

[DankDSM]

personally i wouldnt trust topline products. I dont know much about there pistons, but in a recent engine i just rebuilt i used there bearings and crank only to have a bearing spin on me at about 500 miles. I have also heard that ther oil pumps had a bad bactch of faulty pumps as well. Overall I just dont have a lot of trust with that company and i would go with weisco pistons instead. There is a good reason they are the piston that most people use for 400-600hp aplications.

 

[dsmclipse97]

I am in the process of a rebuild right now, and i was just curious about these pistons. Anyone have them? are they any good? I know they're not wiseco or JE or anything. But does anyone know how much power they can handle? Any info would be great. Thanks

why cant you just go with the tried and true wiseco or JE with eagle rods combo? are you getting a good deal on the toplines? where are you buying them? its easier to help when all the information is available.

 

[nightspeed87]

personally i wouldnt trust topline products. I dont know much about there pistons, but in a recent engine i just rebuilt i used there bearings and crank only to have a bearing spin on me at about 500 miles. I have also heard that ther oil pumps had a bad bactch of faulty pumps as well. Overall I just dont have a lot of trust with that company and i would go with weisco pistons instead. There is a good reason they are the piston that most people use for 400-600hp aplications.

I think I have Topline rod bearings on my 6bolt rebuild... ( There cryotreated though if that would help? ) But your statement makes me worryful... You spun the rod bearing or crankshaft?

And for 1gJosh, just consider that going 8:1 comp will be good for off boost power and more torque.
But keep in mind that that compression ratio wasnt intented for the 1gs stock timing advance. You may knock
sooner than you would have before...

I have 8:5.1 2g pistons but im also chipped to compensate so I see that you have a 91, good chance you have Eprom,
look into www.dsmchips.com, and you could run that compression safely without spending a lot of money on link or anything else up to par .

 

[1gjosh]

i have an eprom stage 3 keydiver

 

[eldiabloz13]

If people who run topline can chime in. Or know from a friend personally. Not a grape vine type of deal here. Im wondering the same thing also im going to use a full top line rebuild kit. So this is a big piece. Now persoanlly i can say the crank bearing went on my friends car as well. When they went he goes ahh shat i had a feeling i didnt install them the right way. So it can be partly his fault. When they came out there were alright shape for being new and having that happen.

 

[keeler]

<---Running Topline, have overheated my DSM a few times on accident, boosting 14lbs daily and have had ZERO problems. I plan on running 20lbs daily in teh next couple weeks. I have about 4k miles on them.

 

[eldiabloz13]

Do you run the full top line rebuild kit by any chance?

 

[1gjosh]

<---Running Topline, have overheated my DSM a few times on accident, boosting 14lbs daily and have had ZERO problems. I plan on running 20lbs daily in teh next couple weeks. I have about 4k miles on them.

Well i have a question for you then. What was your compression right after the piston installation. and what is it now?

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

I have installed them in motors before and they are basically a stock replacement. They will handle anything a stock piston can. Beyond that I can't vouch for them.

 

[DankDSM]

I think I have Topline rod bearings on my 6bolt rebuild... ( There cryotreated though if that would help? ) But your statement makes me worryful... You spun the rod bearing or crankshaft?

ya first pull on the dyno and i got rod knock. Was a combination of spraying to much fuel and crappy rod bearings. I rebuilt it using clevite bearings. I only spun one bearing but all the other bearings where showing poor signs of deterioration after only 500 miles. Stick with clevites. cryotreating is def going to help but remember if you run the car hard with a stroker I would replace bearings at least once if not twice a year.

 

[nightspeed87]

ya first pull on the dyno and i got rod knock. Was a combination of spraying to much fuel and crappy rod bearings. I rebuilt it using clevite bearings. I only spun one bearing but all the other bearings where showing poor signs of deterioration after only 500 miles. Stick with clevites. cryotreating is def going to help but remember if you run the car hard with a stroker I would replace bearings at least once if not twice a year.

Oh but Im not stroker. And you say your bearing spun by a combination of spraying too much fuel also, as in running too rich? Why would this have an effect, does like all the extra gas pollute the oil system or something. ( Im not really worried about that I have a 11.1 air fuel ratio so im not stock rich. )

Also I want to learn more on bearing spinning. You say you spun one run bearing, ( maybe the clearances were off? )
well normally doesnt spinning a bearing have to do with oil pressure problems?
Like im basically asking what are the things that causes a spunt bearing?
What about crankshaft bearings, how do those spin, same reason?
Also how would you know if you spun a crank bearing? Will it give you rod knock like rod bearings, or make a funny sound or anything?

My crankshaft had to be reground and machined and they needed to order specific oversized crankshaft bearings for it and everything was reconditioned/micropolished( once again everything cryotreated ) so if anything i think im more worried about something happening to one of the crankshaft bearings. ( Ill get the specs when I get the chance, because I have a sheet on all the specs on the engine. )

 

[1gjosh]

i have no idea what i want to do yet actually. im considering a stroker. how much would a 4g64 crank out of a junkyard cost me?

 

[nightspeed87]

honestly I wouldnt go 2.4 if you stroke it just stick with the 2.3
besides if your buying a junkyard 2.4 you might want to get it cyrotreated or something because the 2.4 stock crank I dont think was originially intended for extreme turbo horsepower considering galants were n/a.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

You have to use the 2.4 crank for a stroker. How else are you suppose to get more displacement. And the 2.4 stock crank is just fine. You aren't going to break a crank. Especially in a 4 cylinder. It is very rare that I have seen cranks break or crack. I have gotten 2.4 crank for the junkyard for as little as $75 and as much as $150. So figure somewhere between there.

 

[1gjosh]

thats what a 2.3 stroker is... 4g63 with 4g64 crank... another quick question, when shopping for rods would i look for ones that fit the 4g63 crank, or 4g64 crank. or does it matter?

 

[nightspeed87]

Im saying I wouldnt buy the stock 4g64 crank from a junkyard were it could be damaged or need any maching out. I thought the ones sold by venders were much stronger than the original 2.4crankshafts? Id buy one from a vender where it has been treated and proven. I mean unless your power goals arent that high and you dont have the money. But if that was the case I wouldnt recommend going stroker. Id buy the rods from a good vender also personally. If it was me Id buy the stroker crank/ rods/ bearings from slowboy/ or another good vender and know you did it right in the long run. Maybe to chop cost down from there kit, buy the parts seperate, and if your pistons are good you could retain those, but normally stroker kits are offered with higher compression pistons ( at least my tuners stroker kit did, it came with 8:8.1 wisecos )

Also with strokers for it to utilize its true power you may want some good cams, and a good turbo/ fuel set up. It will be a nasty street car then, but wont be too much useful in the higher rpms ( i.e. past 7k ) because of sideloading and different piston speeds. If you did everything right I dont think youd regret it though, my tuners stroker pulls like a beast up to 7k and has low end torque like a v8 and makes the boost come to full spool way quicker.

 

[dsmclipse97]

just wondering... but what cars did the 2.4L 4g64 crank come in?

 

[nightspeed87]

just wondering... but what cars did the 2.4L 4g64 crank come in?

sohc galants from like 95-99 I believe, and also I think the base model Lancers use the same 4g64 engine. Despite Im sure many ppl have used a junkyard 2.4 crankshaft for their 2.3s;
the reason I was mentioning worrying of the durability of a stock ( unknown condition) junkyard crankshaft; is also because a galant 4g64 was a non turbo motor, therefore that crankshaft may not be able to handle upwards of 400whp like a dsm stock crank, thats why I said just to be safe buy one from a vender were there proven and tested and possibly forged or cryotreated or something.
I mean thats just how I would do it, despite you dont hear crankshafts being the main problem of destruction in high output engines.

 

[Raph]

2.4 cranks came in...

87-89 galant 2.4
90 -93 sonatas
90-99 space gear /l 300 cargo comercial van

im sure they were found in other cars,but those are all i can think of right now.

 

[dsmclipse97]

ok thanks for the info guys. Point taken on the "iffy" reliabilty of non-urbo used cranks.

 

[1gjosh]

sohc galants from like 95-99 I believe, and also I think the base model Lancers use the same 4g64 engine. Despite Im sure many ppl have used a junkyard 2.4 crankshaft for their 2.3s;
the reason I was mentioning worrying of the durability of a stock ( unknown condition) junkyard crankshaft; is also because a galant 4g64 was a non turbo motor, therefore that crankshaft may not be able to handle upwards of 400whp like a dsm stock crank, thats why I said just to be safe buy one from a vender were there proven and tested and possibly forged or cryotreated or something.
I mean thats just how I would do it, despite you dont hear crankshafts being the main problem of destruction in high output engines.

It's a steel crankshaft just like the 4g63... i'm sure she can hold some power

 

[96gst_4life]

what about the topline crank with acl tri's with eagel rods and top line pistons? i would know not to use clevetts or anything aluminum. and do the top line cranks have to nitic coating on them?

 

[mikyrc]

I'm planning to boost 20psi and 350hp goal.
But i don't want to buy forged pistons and OEM are overpriced, so people suggested getting topline pistons.

I've heard people telling that topline pistons are as good as OEM or even better.
But also read on a post that they lasted only 10.000 miles on somebody 'cause of broken ring lands.

How many of you guys use them with good results?
What boost do you use? And what HP does have your car?

ANy help?