Too good to be true...

[Bishikid]

So I've had my DSM for 3 years now. its ALWAYS been sitting sense i've had it, and no not becuase I don't put money on it or want to fix it. quite the contrary!!! I dump money on this freakin thing it just never stays running right!

I got the car back Monday, and todays Friday; well today it already started lagging again. Isn't running right. and believe it or not that was the longest its ran right sense I've had it!

anyways I've replaced the vacuum lines twice, with no success. whenever I push my car, the freakin vacuum lines just fly! I mean they just come loose on their own! I'll notice lag and bad idle so i'll pull over, pop my hood, and sure enough I'll see a few lines just dangling there.

Same thing happened today on my way home from work. after hooking the vacuum lines back up and getting back in the car, the car wasn't riding right anymore its doing what it was doing about 5 months ago! the problem back then was that a fuel injector went out. so I had them ALL replaced with brand new ones.

Can loose vacuum lines cause blown/bad injectors???

 

[Bishikid]

If after replacing your thermostat, radiator cap and pressure checking the system, you still are overflowing your overflow, your water pump is either done for or your HG is gone.

well I replaced water pump too about 5 months ago so i doubt it would have gone bad already in such a small period of time, plus all it does is set there, I never drive it cuase its never been reliable.

but get that head gasket set on there will be my next move after replacing the vacuum lines. thanks spawn

180 is the service limit high, so it should be ok, but something is causing your coolant issue, so what have you actually done with the cooling system.

I've actually not done anything with the coolant system expcept the water pump, belt, thermostat, and radiator cap. my next move was going to be radiator and radiator flush. -oh and you suggested I replace a cts a while back because of the warm up issue it also has.

 

[rush2252]

I stopped reading after I saw which lines were coming off. My best explanation is the plastic solenoid with the silicone hose going to it AND the electrical connector, located up by the washer fluid tank. That solenoid is either bad and when you hit boost it isnt opening, OR you have ran your vacuum hoses completely wrong so its blowing it off when you hit boost.

Two options, locate the diagram located on here to show you how to correctly route the vacuum lines or delete the solenoids as mentioned, BUT you will not pass SMOG inspection if your state requires it.

What I mean by isnt opening is this.. The solenoid opens and closes to allow vacuum/boost to travel to the charcoal canister I believe. If the solenoid is opening its almost like throwing on a loose fitting vacuum cap. If that shiny red hose isnt a VERY snug fit its going to continue to blow it off.

 

[miguelmcv]

If you have in mind to do the head gasket. First, you should replace the (RADIATOR CAP).
Some times they don't hold the wright pressure and leak, causing the over flow,
If you are not over heating, then it could be the cap.
If the cap doesn't fix the overflowing.
If you don't mind, it would be a good try to tight the head bolts and see what happens.
Was wondering how ofter you have to refill it.


Still thinking what can cause my car to jerk back and forth on boost like that.

Talking about your jerk back and forth..... It could be your hoses.
After you get those vacuum hoses fixed, It might be your problem solved.

 

[Bishikid]

I stopped reading after I saw which lines were coming off. My best explanation is the plastic solenoid with the silicone hose going to it AND the electrical connector, located up by the washer fluid tank. That solenoid is either bad and when you hit boost it isnt opening, OR you have ran your vacuum hoses completely wrong so its blowing it off when you hit boost.

Two options, locate the diagram located on here to show you how to correctly route the vacuum lines or delete the solenoids as mentioned, BUT you will not pass SMOG inspection if your state requires it.

What I mean by isnt opening is this.. The solenoid opens and closes to allow vacuum/boost to travel to the charcoal canister I believe. If the solenoid is opening its almost like throwing on a loose fitting vacuum cap. If that shiny red hose isnt a VERY snug fit its going to continue to blow it off.

ohh this is a first! well lucky me I found a complete 99 gsx at the junkyard and I am buying the 2gb stock body to finally get rid of this body kit. Ill just buy that solenoid along with it.

btw if any other DSMers need anything off that gsx PM me.

If you have in mind to do the head gasket. First, you should replace the (RADIATOR CAP).
Some times they don't hold the wright pressure and leak, causing the over flow,
If you are not over heating, then it could be the cap.
If the cap doesn't fix the overflowing.
If you don't mind, it would be a good try to tight the head bolts and see what happens.
Was wondering how ofter you have to refill it.


Still thinking what can cause my car to jerk back and forth on boost like that.

Talking about your jerk back and forth..... It could be your hoses.
After you get those vacuum hoses fixed, It might be your problem solved.

The radiator cap it currently has is new, you think I have a dude? umm I have to refill the car every morning. I probably drove the car an average of 50 miles a day? and wouldn't overheat, but still as you can see in the above pics, my resavoir starts shooting water. If I wernt to refill every morning Im sure id overheat.

and as far as me jerking at boost or mid rpms, I doubt its my vacuum lines because usually when I hook them right back up the car starts running fine again. but this time even after i hooked them back up, it never went back to normal

 

[rush2252]

ohh this is a first! well lucky me I found a complete 99 gsx at the junkyard and I am buying the 2gb stock body to finally get rid of this body kit. Ill just buy that solenoid along with it.

btw if any other DSMers need anything off that gsx PM me.

Chances are the hoses are just routed wrong. Before you bother pulling the parts and putting a new solenoid on check the diagram under the hood or the one on the site. I have it bookmarked on my laptop but Im not on it at the moment.

Ill try and search it for you.

EDIT.. here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/336682-vacuume-hose-problem-my-swap.html

Pay attention to the last post I made. THIS shows how to safely remove the emissions, but keep in mind depending on SMOG laws you will NOT pass a smog inspection if you follow the bottom guide.

 

[tonyspyder]

I would say if you haven't change the fuel filter do it. I agree on the maf sensor because when mines was jerking I change the maf and used a k&n filter kit and it runs great now. Hope this helps

 

[Bishikid]

Chances are the hoses are just routed wrong. Before you bother pulling the parts and putting a new solenoid on check the diagram under the hood or the one on the site. I have it bookmarked on my laptop but Im not on it at the moment.

Ill try and search it for you.

EDIT.. here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/336682-vacuume-hose-problem-my-swap.html

Pay attention to the last post I made. THIS shows how to safely remove the emissions, but keep in mind depending on SMOG laws you will NOT pass a smog inspection if you follow the bottom guide.

oh cool thanks bro! I routed them stock becuase routes because I was worried it would over boost, sense I don't have a boost controller, and i was also worried I wouldn't be able to get diagnostic readings if I did that? and I don't have DSMlink yet, thats whay I didn't do it. I totally would run it without the solenoids if I knew it wouldn't affect those 2 things. Im not too worried about passing smog Im already running a 3" straigt downpipe from turbo to back.

I would say if you haven't change the fuel filter do it. I agree on the maf sensor because when mines was jerking I change the maf and used a k&n filter kit and it runs great now. Hope this helps

changing oil, oil filter, spark plug, and spark plug wires was the first thing I changed when I got my car 3 years ago. and like I said its been parked like 90% of that time sooo yea I havn't even driven the car 500 miles sense I've had it. Im sure my oil and oil filter should still be good

 

[Tyeler18]

You could also have a boost leak. That is probably the most common cause of jerking in boost. It could definitely be a boost leak from a line not sealing correctly.

 

[rush2252]

It shouldnt overboost if the actuator has an independent boost source. If you arent worried about smog follow the tabboo speedshop diagram and see if the car runs any better. As far as ECM link etc, figure out how to make the car run right stock before you go selling the farm to make it fast.

 

[Bishikid]

You could also have a boost leak. That is probably the most common cause of jerking in boost. It could definitely be a boost leak from a line not sealing correctly.

ok so tomorrow I'll try and check for boost leak too. some people have mentioned maybe a bad head gasket, if I have good compression, does that automatically rule that out? or is that still a possibility?

It shouldnt overboost if the actuator has an independent boost source. If you arent worried about smog follow the tabboo speedshop diagram and see if the car runs any better. As far as ECM link etc, figure out how to make the car run right stock before you go selling the farm to make it fast.

oh trust me that is my plan! thats why I tryied soo hard to go back to stock as much as possible. tabboo speedshop diagram huh, I'm going to go ahead and look that up right now!

 

[rush2252]

ok so tomorrow I'll try and check for boost leak too. some people have mentioned maybe a bad head gasket, if I have good compression, does that automatically rule that out? or is that still a possibility?

Everyone on here suggests a bad HG on most problems. It is possible that a HG can go bad, but you can rule that out fairly quickly with a rented compression tester and some short research.

If you are leaning towards the HG being an issue after you do more research then check into having a leakdown done as well. A bent intake valve could pose similar symptoms.

 

[96mitsugsx]

I'm surprised nobody suggested doing a leak down test. Do a leak down test first. Have you changed your fuel filter? You might wanna do that too since it's part of your preventive maintenance.

 

[Bishikid]

So Im about to get to work.

Ima go ahead a record my car after starting. just so everyone can see how wacky the rpms jump on their own. ovcourse Ill check my vacuum lines before that.

ok so did some research on here and saw that to do the taboo delete I'd need an EGR block off plate first

I'm just going to go ahead and zip tie the ####ers down for now until I get one in

 

[Bishikid]

Ok so I checked my vacuum lines with the diaphram and everything checks out correctly, to keep my lines I just simply clamped them down, havn't had any fly off ever sense.

Im not too worried about it becuase I ordered the STM block off plate and gasket, once it comes in Im going the tabboo rout

thank you guys for helping me out
and my problem with the car was a bad oxygen sensor.