To change the turbo gaskets do I have to take off the oil lines?

[PieEyedPiper]

Aside form unbolting the turbo from the manifold to replace the gasket, what other stuff would need to be done?
Do the oil/coolant lines need to come off? ( most likely meaning drain oil and coolant?)

Thanks!

 

[brute]

No, you can just unbolt the 4 from manifold to turbo and the turbo will be supported by the oil return. Just slip the gasket in quickly so you don't bend or damage anything over time. And make sure to use anti-seize.

Edit: I just thought of another way, if you're worried about the tight squeeze. You can take off your manifold completely. The turbo will be held there by the return line, so just put the gasket on, and put the manifold back on. But that's a lot of extra work. If it was me, I'd just do the top one.

 

[DSMunknown]

Aside form unbolting the turbo from the manifold to replace the gasket, what other stuff would need to be done?
Do the oil/coolant lines need to come off? ( most likely meaning drain oil and coolant?)

Thanks!

Will you also be replacing the turbo-to-O2 housing gasket? Have you also considered replacing the O2 housing-to-downpipe gasket as well? If you are considering replacing these two additional gaskets, then utilizine some high-temperature sealants would do you good. If you need to disconnect the O2 housing or downpipe for any reason, but decide to reuse the old gaskets, the high-temp sealant will really come in handy for you.

No, you can just unbolt the 4 from manifold to turbo and the turbo will be supported by the oil return. Just slip the gasket in quickly so you don't bend or damage anything over time. And make sure to use anti-seize.

I would advise using a high-temp sealant (like one of these Permatex products) to reduce the possibility of there being any leaks. Use the gasket sealant in moderation. Do not use too much. Also, do not over torque the nuts/bolts. You do not want the sealant to seep over to the ends of the gasket, and therefore in the pathway of exhaust gases. Thus, give yourself about an eighth-to-a-quarter of an inch of unsealed gaskets on the inner rims of the gaskets. Doing this will help to prevent the sealant from disrupting the flow of the exhaust gases.

In addition to Derek's post, try to find yourself some 2600 degree nickel Anti-Seize. It is much better than the regular stuff.

 

[eric91gst]

not to jack this guys thread, but i was also wondering if you could use some sort of permatex gasket maker to use for the 02 housing to downpipe instead of having to buy a new gaket.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Thanks for the responses.
Yeah while I'm in there I plan to do the turbo to manifold, turbo to o2 and o2 to dp.
To remove the o2 will I have to remove the turbo and thus deal with the return lines etc?

Also I did grab some 700F high temp copper gasket stuff made by purmutex I think. Will this be sufficient?
I'll pick up some anti-sieze before I start working :thumbsup:

 

[hewhoisknot]

Nope, apparently you don't have to remove the turbo, I've never tried to do it without removing the turbo, but this link should help you out.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61917

BUN

 

[Dream On]

Do you still have the 3 bolts and the stud in place? If so, I think you're going to have to remove the turbo. If not, then I think it can be done without removing it.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Great info guys, thanks.

Which 3 bolts and stud are we talking about? I assume they're all still there. Everything there is stock.

 

[Dream On]

The ones on top of the exhaust manifold that connect it to the turbo. Originally, it has 3 bolts and a stud threaded into the turbine housing. Since you still have it since it is stock, you'll probably just have to remove the turbo with all the lines. Good time to do some porting.