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Tips on purchasing a used motor

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tsiunderpsi

Probationary Member
7
0
Aug 20, 2005
Sandpoint, Idaho
Hey All,

Looking to purchase a replacement motor for my recently discovered crank walking issue. :banghead:

I'm planning to go check out a 6 bolt long block from a local dsmer. I've never had to do this before so what are some critical factors I need to be aware of before handing over my hard earned $ ? From what I can tell he has a decent reputation with the local forum. Asking $ for the long block is $500.

The long block has been removed from the car it was in and is currently sitting in this persons garage. I plan to pull the oil pan and inspect the bearing, crank and rods for wear and attempt a leak down test. What else should I be on the look out for?

What would be some red flags that would cause you to walk away from buying a used motor?

Thanks in Advance!
 
IMO I would check row52 and picknpull. Fuel Injected Longblock assemblies start at around $240, price varies yard to yard; state to state. Check out if there is anything local near you and see if any of those motors are in good shape. i.e. No endplay in the crank, condition of exhaust runner ports, timing belt, etc.
 
There's one here for $100, lower assembly/block only, guys been listing it for about 2 months now. It was $400 with the head but I'm assuming that's gone.

It spun a bearing, you could get the crank most likely resurfaced and rebuild it back to stock between the two motors worth of parts for less than $500. Unless you want something to drop right in.

Youd be looking at a gasket set a little machining and a drive. I can get you his number. He just relisted it today actually.

Also its a 7 bolt, I don't know if you care that much to go for the 6?
 
If possible, pull the oil pan and check it for debris. Also check bearings if the seller will allow it. Look for oil deposits inside, condition of timing/balancer belts. Pull off the valve cover and look at condition of the lifters & rockers, and all the valvetrain components. If it were me, I'd pull the head off too to check the valves, piston domes, and cylinder walls. Bit this is all based in whether or not the seller is willing to let you.
 
If possible, pull the oil pan and check it for debris. Also check bearings if the seller will allow it. Look for oil deposits inside, condition of timing/balancer belts. Pull off the valve cover and look at condition of the lifters & rockers, and all the valvetrain components. If it were me, I'd pull the head off too to check the valves, piston domes, and cylinder walls. Bit this is all based in whether or not the seller is willing to let you.

Spyderdrifter thanks for your impute this is the feed back I was hoping for. Not sure how open the seller is to me pulling the motor apart for inspection. When asked, he was receptive to popping the oil pan off and attempting a leak down test, but I'm not sure how helpful/possible that will be considering the current status of the motor, not to mention it will be cold.

Anybody else have any impute into the matter as to red flags when purchasing a used motor?

Thanks for the space!
 
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