Tips on new DSM ownership.

[realxclutch]

Hey everyone,

I am currently in a position to get a 96 Eclipse GSX. I'm going up to central jersey to check it out, drive it etc etc before I make the decision. The car is very clean and from pictures looks pretty well kept, It needs some work but Challenge accepted.

1996 Eclipse GSX 5 speed, its got a 6 bolt swap, 16g turbo, greddy type rs bov, apexi turbo back exhaust, fmic, 6 puck clutch, greddy PRofec B spec 2 boost controller, AEM wide band A/F guage, Alpine flip out. Its un-tuned right now at 8lbs, runs and drives fine as his daily. He's asking 3600 for it. What concerns me is the timing belt of the 6-bolt mainly, I know they need regular replacing but I'd like to have time to learn it all hands on before NEEDING a new one right away. Anything I should pay attention to or look for?

Let me know, I have an 02 3G GT right now.

 

[ofgofg]

I guess we are spoiled in the Colorado area, because stock unmolested DSms are advertised all the time. In 3 years I have had 2, for less $$ than what is being asked for a project, and with lower miles.

If the car is well sorted its a heck of a deal. But, if it has normal problems for that mileage and modified condition,, then well,, I wouldnt touch it. My opinion comes from the fact I prefer to DRIVE a dsm, not FIX one. Some guys like to tear into them as much or more than actually driving them. Thats cool too.

 

[Silver99OZ]

I guess we are spoiled in the Colorado area, because stock unmolested DSms are advertised all the time. In 3 years I have had 2, for less $$ than what is being asked for a project, and with lower miles.

Yes, you certainly are. Clean near stock DSMs are almost impossible to find here in the NJ area.

OP, as others have said make sure to check for rust as that will be one if the biggest issues with buying a car from NJ. I can see from the pictures that there are rust spots under the fuse box and also above the engine mount on the drivers side.

 

[realxclutch]

Ok guys, so I went and checked out the car today. So I'll give a synopsis of how things went.

I arrived at the meeting place and there it was, looking just as it did in the description. I greeted the seller, a 23 year old guy who's very down to earth and much the mitsubishi enthusiast himself. His friend was there also but he drove a Honda so no attention was paid to him. I started at the rear, checked each wheel well closely, The Springs/shocks are in good shape, standard grime on them from just driving around but no leaks and no noises. The brakes are good and there's not a spec of rust in the wheel wells. I went under the car and it was very good, The Apexi Turbo back doesn't have any rust at all, very clean. I went inside, The gauges are properly connected and clean. Boost controller works fine and the wideband works as well. The interior is in very good condition aside from the driver seat that has a small hole as well as standard cracking. No stains at all on the headliner or floor, I can tell he detailed it regularly, the driver seat is power too. Windows go up and down just fine, I reached for the hood latch and apparently it's missing the plastic cover piece that goes ontop that you pull so I had to pull the cable(not a deal breaker). Under the hood the JDM 4g63T sat there on good condition motor mounts. The Timing belt, Accessory belts, and pulleys look pretty new being as they look like they came off the shelf. The 16G sits up front there, clamp on the housing is new and there is not sign of oil leaking or stains at all. Front mount is very solid, no play at all. I took off the intake and checked the turbo, no shaft play at all. That recirc tube that a few of you noticed is in fact sealed off. The BoV is venting to atmosphere and sounds REALLY good. Oh and there is no rust at all in the engine bay. The car started right up with no problems or sound of struggle. Engine stayed at operating temperature and never went higher. Oh by the way, the downpipe is 2.5" away from the intercooler piping so it's not that close, I'll still throw a heat shield though. I sat inside and got ready to test drive it.

The 6 puck clutch and 7 lb flywheel is hard, I'm used to my feather light clutch in my 3G. There is a short throw shifter in and the car shifts through the gears without a problem. The only issue I had was that my hand kept hitting the center console when I'd shift into 3rd. I think the shifter is a bit TOO short. Again though, not a deal breaker. I started driving it nice and easy. Rode very well, no abnormal noises or creaking. Alignment is dead on. When we hit the highway I punched it and hit boost. I was immediately slammed into the seat, going from FWD to AWD turbo is an unexplainable feeling. It pulls hard and the external wastegate keeps boost at 8 lbs without any issue (It vents to atmosphere so screams). Letting off the gas the GReddy BoV sounded great. I've heard others but for some reason I prefer GReddy products. I ran the car pretty good through all gears and even running on boost for awhile the engine was still normal temp. There was a slight noise coming from the front of the car near the front left wheel but it sounds like the wheel bearing he talked about and makes a sound similar to mine so that's not an issue.

Overall the car is a dusty gem. It's in good condition and just needs the TLC I'm ready to give. Thanks for all of your help, please ask anymore questions you have as I am still doing research.

EDIT: Compression test went great.. ALL 4 cylinders are around 175 lbs and they only vary by 8 lbs or so each.

Thanks guys!!

 

[H@xtGSX]

That sounds like a winner, but still, is it a Gm MAF with a translator so the BOV can vent? And if so, where is it? All I see is the regular 2g MAF, and unless I am missing some other tuning device, the BOV dumping to air normally will make the car stagger and sputter between shifts.

 

[realxclutch]

That sounds like a winner, but still, is it a Gm MAF with a translator so the BOV can vent? And if so, where is it? All I see is the regular 2g MAF, and unless I am missing some other tuning device, the BOV dumping to air normally will make the car stagger and sputter between shifts.

what exactly do you mean Gm MAF with a translator. What was on there is the stock MAF and on the intake (after the sensor) there is a connector for the BOV to recirculate but it's blocked off and the BoV just vents to atmosphere. This is taken from GReddy about the Type RS BoV (The Type-RS features optional discharge adapters for rerouting discharged air.) Which I assume means you can vent to atmosphere or recirc. Since the recirc tube is behind the sensor I don't think it affects anything aside from slightly wasting the air you're releasing, although the BOV opens off throttle so I don't see how it affects performance really.

And no the car doesn't sputter or anything. Runs fine.

 

[TSI_93]

175 Is a bit high for a 6 bolt with stock pistons. But being high is better than low. It indicates that there is either excessive carbon build up, or a a rebuilt engine using 2g pistons or some aftermarket piston. Or a shaved head.

Honestly from your description that car sounds like a good deal.

The heat shield will only contribute to burning off the paint on the hood, and possibly a dead alternator if your in a lot of a stop and go trafic.

I've run one radiator fan on multiple DSMs. The fans really only help you under 25mph. As long as the radiator fan is a shrouded fan, or an OEM one it might be fine unless, again your in a lot of stop and go bumper to bumper traffic.

Radiator fans and head shields wouldn't be a deal breaker to me. Neither would the un recirculated BOV. Thats all stuff that is rather easy to fix, and possibly doesn't need to be fixed. I am currently running a non recirculated BOV simply because with the FMIC and intake I have its a practical impossibility to recirculate. Looking at the BOV on there, you'd a hell of a time forcing the hose over the vent. If its not causing issues, why change it?

175 Is a bit high for a 6 bolt with stock pistons. But being high is better than low. It indicates that there is either excessive carbon build up, or a a rebuilt engine using 2g pistons or some aftermarket piston. Or a shaved head.

Honestly from your description that car sounds like a good deal.

The heat shield will only contribute to burning off the paint on the hood, and possibly a dead alternator if your in a lot of a stop and go trafic.

I've run one radiator fan on multiple DSMs. The fans really only help you under 25mph. As long as the radiator fan is a shrouded fan, or an OEM one it might be fine unless, again your in a lot of stop and go bumper to bumper traffic.

Radiator fans and head shields wouldn't be a deal breaker to me. Neither would the un recirculated BOV. Thats all stuff that is rather easy to fix, and possibly doesn't need to be fixed. I am currently running a non recirculated BOV simply because with the FMIC and intake I have its a practical impossibility to recirculate. Looking at the BOV on there, you'd a hell of a time forcing the hose over the vent. If its not causing issues, why change it?

 

[realxclutch]

175 Is a bit high for a 6 bolt with stock pistons. But being high is better than low. It indicates that there is either excessive carbon build up, or a a rebuilt engine using 2g pistons or some aftermarket piston. Or a shaved head.

Honestly from your description that car sounds like a good deal.

The heat shield will only contribute to burning off the paint on the hood, and possibly a dead alternator if your in a lot of a stop and go trafic.

I've run one radiator fan on multiple DSMs. The fans really only help you under 25mph. As long as the radiator fan is a shrouded fan, or an OEM one it might be fine unless, again your in a lot of stop and go bumper to bumper traffic.

Radiator fans and head shields wouldn't be a deal breaker to me. Neither would the un recirculated BOV. Thats all stuff that is rather easy to fix, and possibly doesn't need to be fixed. I am currently running a non recirculated BOV simply because with the FMIC and intake I have its a practical impossibility to recirculate. Looking at the BOV on there, you'd a hell of a time forcing the hose over the vent. If its not causing issues, why change it?

Yeah, Now I just need to sell my car.

 

[H@xtGSX]

what exactly do you mean Gm MAF with a translator. What was on there is the stock MAF and on the intake (after the sensor) there is a connector for the BOV to recirculate but it's blocked off and the BoV just vents to atmosphere. This is taken from GReddy about the Type RS BoV (The Type-RS features optional discharge adapters for rerouting discharged air.) Which I assume means you can vent to atmosphere or recirc. Since the recirc tube is behind the sensor I don't think it affects anything aside from slightly wasting the air you're releasing, although the BOV opens off throttle so I don't see how it affects performance really.

And no the car doesn't sputter or anything. Runs fine.

Normal operation of a 2g MAF meters a certain amount of air as it enters the intake and the ecu makes the fuel corrections based on the MAF input. If you release that metered air prior to it going into the pistons, the fuel corrections the ecu is making are wrong, but only for a couple seconds. It means you will go real rich for a couple seconds after the BOV vents. If it isn't causing a problem, then only fix it if you feel like it. Otherwise, I see no reason not to buy it. It looks like a good deal. None of the little crap we are nit picking at would be a deal breaker for me either. I would still buy it, as all that stuff is little fixes that won't be bank robbers.

A GM MAF with a MAF translator placed AFTER the BOV but before the throttle allows you to vent to atmosphere without consequence, as it is only measuring the air blown through it as it enters the throttle. Whatever is blown off before a GM MAF is never measured, therefore has no effect. It is considered to be "the right way" to vent your BOV without recirculation.

 

[realxclutch]

Normal operation of a 2g MAF meters a certain amount of air as it enters the intake and the ecu makes the fuel corrections based on the MAF input. If you release that metered air prior to it going into the pistons, the fuel corrections the ecu is making are wrong, but only for a couple seconds. It means you will go real rich for a couple seconds after the BOV vents. If it isn't causing a problem, then only fix it if you feel like it. Otherwise, I see no reason not to buy it. It looks like a good deal. None of the little crap we are nit picking at would be a deal breaker for me either. I would still buy it, as all that stuff is little fixes that won't be bank robbers.

A GM MAF with a MAF translator placed AFTER the BOV but before the throttle allows you to vent to atmosphere without consequence, as it is only measuring the air blown through it as it enters the throttle. Whatever is blown off before a GM MAF is never measured, therefore has no effect. It is considered to be "the right way" to vent your BOV without recirculation.

Ok, well I don't think that BoV is setup to recirc in this car What I'd do is just get a new adapter to get rid of that random hose.

 

[H@xtGSX]

The way it is now is designed to be recirculated. Like I said, it's whatever you feel like doing. If you notice it, its an easy fix. If you don't, you can leave as is.

 

[Lou98GSX]

car may not pass emission test you have a 6 bolt with some deleted sensors and i bet that the check engine light is on and if it isn't then do a bulb check by turning the key and making sure the check engine light comes on and then goes out

 

[realxclutch]

Yeah the CEL is on for some sensor codes. You know exactly what's required to clear it? I'm not too concerned though because I can pass inspection fine. I don't go to the state for it... For obvious reasons.

 

[Roberti 2G]

All turbo'd 2g cars are ment to have the BOV recirculated with a stock MAF. Regardless of the brand of BOV valve the operation is still the same. That is all everyone is trying to tell you about the BOV. It being vented to the atomsphere is just for sound effects and in Most not All cases causes the car to run rough, stall out at stops.

You seem to like the car a lot and I am by all mean for you going 3g to 2g. Good luck with the car hope you get a gem.

 

[realxclutch]

All turbo'd 2g cars are ment to have the BOV recirculated with a stock MAF. Regardless of the brand of BOV valve the operation is still the same. That is all everyone is trying to tell you about the BOV. It being vented to the atomsphere is just for sound effects and in Most not All cases causes the car to run rough, stall out at stops.

You seem to like the car a lot and I am by all mean for you going 3g to 2g. Good luck with the car hope you get a gem.

Oh ok, thank you for clarifying.

 

[H@xtGSX]

Yea man, no negativity here at all. I really hope you get a good one. I did, and I LOVE my car. We are all saying go for it, just trying to point out the technical issues... At first, they will not seem like much... Once you learn just how far you can push one of these beasts, it will become an obsession for perfection. The performance you can squeeze out of one of these cars running in optimal condition is amazing. It just requires attention to detail and the dedication to fix what you find. If you are up for that, these 2g AWD's are absolutely addictive. I have driven Z06 C5 Vettes, and honestly, my car is more fun... and it isn't really that built.

 

[realxclutch]

Yea man, no negativity here at all. I really hope you get a good one. I did, and I LOVE my car. We are all saying go for it, just trying to point out the technical issues... At first, they will not seem like much... Once you learn just how far you can push one of these beasts, it will become an obsession for perfection. The performance you can squeeze out of one of these cars running in optimal condition is amazing. It just requires attention to detail and the dedication to fix what you find. If you are up for that, these 2g AWD's are absolutely addictive. I have driven Z06 C5 Vettes, and honestly, my car is more fun... and it isn't really that built.

Yeah, I have my work cut out for me but I'm ready. I just need to sell my current eclipse now.

 

[realxclutch]

Didn't get this one... He had sold it. However I am looking at a 98 GSX, 102k on the body, 80k on the 6 bolt, balance shaft delete brand new clutch and other parts, papers for all the work and parts. Car isn't running atm, just needs fluids and the MAP sensor hooked up. Looks really clean and nice. Wish me luck, price is a bit higher than the last one but the body is flawless.

 

[GoCanes777]

The only red light to me is why upgrade the turbo and need a tune or more tuning? May not have done damage but then again you will never really know....

 

[Alan11]

Why don't you just wait for a stock dsm?

 

[SPYDERGSTTUNER]

That's blows you didn't get the last one, I'm a little late but the car was nice and seemed like a good deal aside from what was covered by everyone here and the ghetto ass DSM sharpied on the little plate

 

[Cornfed4G64]

or sell your car first and then start looking?

 

[realxclutch]

I have buyers for my car. The eclipse I'm looking at now is one guys project, and he does have money and lots of toys I might ad so this one has had a good home thus far.

INFO:

98 Eclipse GSX 102,023 on the odometer (body)
6-bolt swap from an Eagle Talon TSI (80,000 on the 6-bolt) Balance shafts deleted, brand new timing belt/water pump/accessory belts/pulleys.
New Exedy clutch kit.
Turbo back exhaust
Rebuilt stock turbo
Battery relocated to the trunk
A/C delete
Cruise Control Delete

Just needs fluids and the MAP sensor mounted to get running. Any idea how much I can squeeze out of the stock turbo? Oh and how involved would putting A/C back in be ...Although I probably won't since I honestly don't use A/C a lot.

 

[Travisgsx96]

I'm telling you look for a stocker and make it your project. I found my 96gsx out of a small town here in Nevada and its become my baby and I know what's done is done right. Traded my Saturn for it .

 

[realxclutch]

I don't think you guys on the west coast understand ... It's near IMPOSSIBLE to find a stock GSX let alone one that is 5-speed low mileage. This one is a fresh build so I'm ready to finish it, get it running, and make it 1 of 2 GSX killers in south jersey. There is only 1 other killer around here and that's my bud's GSX 450hp 2.3L stroker etc that's in philly. This one is a diamond in the rough...more so than that last one I looked at.

 

[omega260]

I don't think you guys on the west coast understand ... It's near IMPOSSIBLE to find a stock GSX let alone one that is 5-speed low mileage. This one is a fresh build so I'm ready to finish it, get it running, and make it 1 of 2 GSX killers in south jersey. There is only 1 other killer around here and that's my bud's GSX 450hp 2.3L stroker etc that's in philly. This one is a diamond in the rough...more so than that last one I looked at.

The man speaks the truth. I am on this site, craigslist, autozone, cars, treasure hunt, flyers, private investigator just to find a decent one. I was actually looking at the hillsborough one but I dont have a job yet so every decent deal i see hurts. But if you havent seen this one yet check it out, hes asking 2grand to much but see what you can do

1998 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GSX