2G Timing belt / maintenance help

[CertifiedBot]

I am planning a timing belt job and going to replace anything that needs it while I’ve got the motor out and change all fluids while I’m at it. I have a decent understand of what I need but I’m pretty new to cars and could definitely use the advice. I’ll make a list of everything I plan on purchasing. I’ll mostly use extremepsi and rock auto to get everything. I’m going to install an e316G in the future after I have supporting mods and attempt to make ~300whp. Thanks in advance.

Gates timing and balance belt, early 95 tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, balancer pulley, water pump, fel-pro lower block gasket set, fel-pro head gasket set, ARP L19 head studs, NGK BPR6ES, Mishimoto cf catch can, accessory belts, thermostat, redline MT-90 trans fluid, redline heavy shockproof gear oil for tcase and rear diff.

I’m also going to install the CC Stage 2 2100 I have and purchase a lightweight flywheel in preparation for the 16g.

 

[pauleyman]

You need a flywheel?

 

[CertifiedBot]

You need a flywheel?

Yeah I figured I’ll just replace it while I’m doing it. I plan on buying competition clutch’s lightweight steel flywheel

 

[pauleyman]

Well it just so happens I have one. Pm me

I am planning a timing belt job and going to replace anything that needs it while I’ve got the motor out and change all fluids while I’m at it. I have a decent understand of what I need but I’m pretty new to cars and could definitely use the advice. I’ll make a list of everything I plan on purchasing. I’ll mostly use extremepsi and rock auto to get everything. I’m going to install an e316G in the future after I have supporting mods and attempt to make ~300whp. Thanks in advance.

Gates timing and balance belt, early 95 tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, balancer pulley, water pump, fel-pro lower block gasket set, fel-pro head gasket set, ARP L19 head studs, NGK BPR6ES, Mishimoto cf catch can, accessory belts, thermostat, redline MT-90 trans fluid, redline heavy shockproof gear oil for tcase and rear diff.

I’m also going to install the CC Stage 2 2100 I have and purchase a lightweight flywheel in preparation for the 16g.

If you're just doing a timing belt why the head gasket, lower gasket set etc. Seals are a good idea but I wouldn't do this others as a maintenance item. As a repair for leaks yes. Are you stating you have the motor out now or you're pulling it to do a timing belt?

 

[CertifiedBot]

If you're just doing a timing belt why the head gasket, lower gasket set etc. Seals are a good idea but I wouldn't do this others as a maintenance item. As a repair for leaks yes.

Well I plan on doing head studs for the 16g and I might as well replace the head gasket while I’m there right? I only have a couple leaks and I think it’s from the seal where the driveshaft goes to the tcase and around the oil cap, but I think that might be the valve cover

If you're just doing a timing belt why the head gasket, lower gasket set etc. Seals are a good idea but I wouldn't do this others as a maintenance item. As a repair for leaks yes. Are you stating you have the motor out now or you're pulling it to do a timing belt?

Would I just need to buy a fel-pro head gasket if all I plan to do is head studs? And would in need to get the head resurfaced?

 

[CKOPOCT]

Head resurfaced - yes. Most definitely. Aluminum head against a steel block. The heat cycles over time can cause minute warping, and taking the head off and removing the clamping pressure will allow the aluminum to bend (warp) into its new desired shape because of the heat cycles. Always resurface an aluminum head.

 

[pauleyman]

Unless there is a reason to take this apart I personally wouldn't. Head studs, new head gasket aren't needed unless they're bad. 16g has been used for decades. We didn't put head studs on. That stuff didn't even exist when the cars were newer. If you're just doing maintenance then do maintenance. If you're planning for a larger build then do that. Sounds like you're just throwing parts at it. You can do this but if you don't need them I don't see the point. One thing I would do, if you need a new timing cover get a revised cover and don't use the early 2ga tensioner. Use the 2gb tensioner as they are more common. Some better "while I'm in there " stuff would be harmonic balancer. Motor mounts, lifters.
Depends on what level of repair/maintenance/mod you are looking at and of course your wallet.

 

[CertifiedBot]

Unless there is a reason to take this apart I personally wouldn't. Head studs, new head gasket aren't needed unless they're bad. 16g has been used for decades. We didn't put head studs on. That stuff didn't even exist when the cars were newer. If you're just doing maintenance then do maintenance. If you're planning for a larger build then do that. Sounds like you're just throwing parts at it. You can do this but if you don't need them I don't see the point. One thing I would do, if you need a new timing cover get a revised cover and don't use the early 2ga tensioner. Use the 2gb tensioner as they are more common. Some better "while I'm in there " stuff would be harmonic balancer. Motor mounts, lifters.
Depends on what level of repair/maintenance/mod you are looking at and of course your wallet.

Yeah I don’t want to just throw parts at it. I want to very reliably be able to handle 300hp. I just thought people recommend to put head studs before installing the 16g and running 24-25lbs of boost so I don’t blow a head gasket. So don’t touch the bolts/head gasket, only replace the seals that are leaking, and you would replace the harmonic balancer, lifters and mounts?

 

[pauleyman]

Others may chine in but in my opinion yes. If you blow a head gasket then change it and stud it. If you feel that motor is compromised do it now. It's isn't just about the boost. It's about tune. Ignition timing, fuel and keep in mind 20psi on a 16g is not the same as 20psi on a red or larger.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I was running 400hp on stock HG but i did upgrade to ARP's just because at the time I was doing valve stem seals so for me was no issues. Stock HG is plenty strong,
I did them 1 at a time without lifting the head and was fine for many years after that. Not required really though.

You can change things out like crank and cam seals as part of your big maintenance as thats always a good idea. Your pretty much there anyway so might aswel do that now. They go bad and i had replaced mine about 110k miles due to old age but not leaking.

 

[Imback]

If you plan on taking off the cylinder head I would get the valve stem seals changed. Obviously make sure to have a vacuum test done to make sure the valves are holding Vacuum if the car didn't overheat it should have need more than two thousands to be perfectly flat. I would also skip the l19s. You're not running high boost on a 16g the regular 8740s would be more than enough. Obviously get OEM cam seals and that's basically everything for the cylinder head. Since you plan on taking off the transmission for a clutch flywheel upgrade, I would do the rear main seal since you already have access to it. Don't forget to get a OEM throw out bearing fulcrum ball as well as retainer clip. A new OEM fork wouldn't be a bad idea or you get the billet competition fork. As far as the timing belt kit I have no issue with the gates belt. I've installed a few for a few customers, but I personally like OEM. The gates tensioner pulley and idler pulley are decent, but again, make sure to use the OEM tensioner.

 

[CertifiedBot]

Okay thanks a lot for the information. If I don’t need to take the head off I’m not going to, I’ll just do the timing job and replace the couple of leaking gaskets, cam and crank seals, and look into the harmonic balancer and motor mounts. I’ll also look into the throw out bearing ball and fork, is there anything else?

 

[pauleyman]

As mentioned before the later tensioner may be easier to get but it requires modification to the front timing cover or you switch to the 2gb timing cover.

 

[chrysler kid]

valve stem seals are a must do if you have the head removed.

you can do them with the head on the car, but its typically not needed unless the car is smoky at resting idle.

I wouldnt consider a head gasket a necessary item on a car thats been adequately maintained

 

[Maranello993]

Great timing on this thread for me, I just got a timing kit from Extremepsi as well as a few other parts such as water pump and valve cover gaskets. What I'm hearing is that the tensioner that comes in that kit is not the one you want?