1G timing belt loose

[johnboyrs]

I just installed my timing belt, I put it back together and it started and ran for ten minutes. When I was checking everything I saw the belt was real loose. What could cause that??

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[johnboyrs]

Also when i turn the crank it's tight in spots whats that about?

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[pauleyman]

What do you mean tight in spots. My guess is the belt isn't tensioned properly. Its normal for a little slack to form when the car sits due to cam profile but not that much. What your tensioner protrision spec on the belt job. If you dont know the job is most certainly wrong and you have a time bomb that could go off at any time, even the very next start.

 

[pauleyman]

From what I could see it also looks like the marks are wrong. Hard to tell at those angles.

 

[mowgli5555]

Hope that you don't have bent valves. Are you sure it was tensioned correctly?? Josh

 

[mitsubishikid]

Turn the crankshaft over until all the oem marks are lined up correctly, then re-tension the timing belt and check the distance on the tensioner rod you should only be able to fit a 5/32 drill bit in the gap see Roberts post here http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/please-recheck-my-timing-timing-with-fidanza-cam-gears.398715/

 

[mitsubishikid]

Also these two videos can be quite helpful.

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[97 eclenger]

set the timing with no slack in the back. the back side of timing has to be tight. don't rely on the tensioner to tighten the belt. tension the belt with the timing tensioner pulley. have all the tension on the pulley and then pull the pin on the hydraulic tensioner. after a few minutes with the pin out, try to put the pin back in. should still go in with little resistance.

 

[johnboyrs]

Thanks guys. Everything is lined up. I installed the tensioner with the pin in, then with the prong tool and my friend holding the cam gears in place i put tension on the belt all while tighting the pulley bolt. I have no bs and i have 272 bc's.

 

[johnboyrs]

Do i need that threaded shaft tool will it be easier?

 

[pauleyman]

Doesnt completely matter how you did it. What matters is you rotated the motor afterwards, checked marks and finally checked protrusion of the tensioner. If that spec is wrong its srong. There is no almost. You MUST actually measure it.

 

[pauleyman]

Yes the threaded rod helps, otherwise the arm like to lift up as youre trying to tension the pulley.

 

[johnboyrs]

Thanks Pauleyman. I'll do it over again.

 

[pauleyman]

This might help a little.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/ar...t-you-shouldnt-be-after-you-read-this.450253/

 

[tmoney20g]

The "tight in spots" is due to compression. As you rotate the crank, you manually go through the engine's '4 cycles', one of them being compression. So when it gets 'hard' to turn the crank, that's a compression stroke on 2 of the 4 cylinders. Then once you reach top dead center and start the down stroke, it almost feels like something lets loose, that's the exhaust valves opening up on the compressed cylinder letting the air out. It is then easier to turn until the next compression stroke.

 

[serviceguy]

I find that the procedure in the VFAQ is still the best reference to be followed in order to perform a timing belt job. If you follow it step by step without skipping any part you should be fine, plain and simple. Best thing to do is to print it and have it with you all along during the procedure. Also make sure that the components (tensioner, pulleys etc.) are new or within specs and possibly OEM or on the same par if not better.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

 

[jbeaton9292]

i didnt read all of this but im gonna tell you right now do nut run that car! replace the tensioners both of them. i had put a motor in my 1g i had and it was like that but i learned a very hard lesson too. it was only a stock motor at the time and was getting the rest of the parts to do the built motor i had in it. while trying to set things up i had hood open went to start it and watched the belt jump. so i checked the compression after i realigned the marks and sure enough i ate up some valves! so learn from my mistake and just redo all of it again do not start it again it only takes one time like it did with me.

 

[johnboyrs]

Is this correct? Belt is nice and tight all the way around after 6 revolutions.

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[19Eclipse90]

We cannot tell you by looking at a picture. Again,

...finally checked protrusion of the tensioner. If that spec is wrong its srong. There is no almost. You MUST actually measure it.

From VFAQ: The specification of 3.8-4.5 mm (.15-.18 in.)

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[johnboyrs]

Ok. I understand that, I've done this 23 times every time I pull the pin it extends. Am I missing something???

 

[19Eclipse90]

I assume that means it is out of spec again. Sorry, you'll have to do it a 24th time.

Are you using the threaded rod?

What torque are you putting on the tensioner pulley bolt?
And you're torquing it to spec before removing the pin?
Do you know if the tensioner pulley is using the original bolt?
If you don't, can you verify what length it is?

 

[johnboyrs]

It looks like the original but i can pull the one off of my doner car. Is that what would cause it to extend???

 

[19Eclipse90]

If the bolt isn't torqued down or it is too long and bottoms out to where it doesn't actually hold the tensioner pulley properly, then it could allow the pin to extend.

I'm trying to think outside of the box on why this isn't working for you, assuming you are doing it correctly. Thus, it'd be helpful if you answered all the questions.

 

[serviceguy]

If there's no divot in the tensioner arm and the tension were to be within specs (3.8-4.5 mm between the arm and the edge of the hydraulic tensioner) the hole in the pin should be aligned with the holes in the edge of the tensioner. That doen't seem the case.

 

[drewbuddy]

Just a thought. Refer to 19eclipse90's photo. You have the right pulley's in the right spot? Meaning the tensioner pulley's in the right spot? And the 2 little holes facing outward?