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Timing belt install problem..

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Austin06

15+ Year Contributor
67
0
Nov 4, 2006
North Attleboro, Massachusetts
Well, after swapping cylinder heads and a new turbo setup...blah blah blah, I'm down to doing the t-belt now. Installed a set of DKS 272's and stock cam gears, new tensioner, idler, and tensioner pulley, and belt, except i can't get the belt on ( well shouldn't say i can't, but i will here for simplicity). The problem I'm have seems to be where the belt goes around the crankshaft pulley and the oil pump. I have the marks lined up perfectly on the crankshaft and pump, but when i go to place the belt around them, the teeth on the belt won't line up. So, I'm not sure if i have it messed up at the cam gears or I'm just doing something incorrect. I have pictures here, hopefully they will help you understand my problem. It's just becoming very frustrating, and I'm very anal about having things perfect. And with this, it should be.

[Re-size.]

Thanks for the input.. Austin:beatentodeath:
 
Yes, balance shafts are still there. Also, I never removed the balnce shaft belt, just the camshaft timing belt, for head removal.

This just has me stumped, but I'm hoping to get this straightened out.

Thanks Austin
 
I have found its easier to get the belt around the bottom gears before you go to put it over the cam gears. It just makes it easier for me to get everything lined up when I do it.
Its also possible that you can have the plate behind the crank gear on backwards, which will throw off the mark. But if you never removed the crank gear assembly than that most likely isnt the problem.
 
I had to do what jjneat suggested when I did my timing belt a few months ago. after some frustration, i tried that and it worked the first time
 
yhea retard it enough to get the belt on, pull the pin let it tension up and check it all while tensioned, if its not lined up, take it off and do it again. It took me a few trys because things will shift when it tensioned up.
 
for the timming gears get 2 17 mm socket or wrench and turn them till they line up when you get the belt on clamp it on till the rest is on it is easy to do the bottom frist then tensionor then the oil sprocket then exhaust cam then intake make sure to keep tension on the belt and the only slack should be around the tensioner
 
Well I've been trying both starting at the top and the bottom. I guess my patience is wearing thin. I'll go back at it again today.

Thanks for the replies, Austin.
 
Go to advanced search and search USERNAME: BUCK and SEARCHTITLE: TIMING

Buck is the master of timing situations and reading his articles will help you understand. The easiest way to do timing (I've found out at least) is to use the 2 17mm wrench way and align the cams straight with each other. Then clamp it down to make sure the belt doesn't move (I used towels and some pliers). Then count 36 teeth from the left cam sprocket to the right (but not including the one last one)

Then string it down past the idler, then onto the oil pump sprocket. Make sure the pump sprocket is floating counter clockwise (make sure it's in phase) before putting the belt on. Then slowly put the belt over the crank shaft sprocket (adjust with sprocket with a 1/2" bar) to make sure the marks line up.

That should be all set.

DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT remove the grenade pin from the tensioner. If you do the tensioning correctly, pulling the pin IS THE LAST THING you need to do (since correct tension will let the pin slide easily in and out).
 
Go to advanced search and search USERNAME: BUCK and SEARCHTITLE: TIMING

Buck is the master of timing situations and reading his articles will help you understand. The easiest way to do timing (I've found out at least) is to use the 2 17mm wrench way and align the cams straight with each other. Then clamp it down to make sure the belt doesn't move (I used towels and some pliers). Then count 36 teeth from the left cam sprocket to the right (but not including the one last one)

Then string it down past the idler, then onto the oil pump sprocket. Make sure the pump sprocket is floating counter clockwise (make sure it's in phase) before putting the belt on. Then slowly put the belt over the crank shaft sprocket (adjust with sprocket with a 1/2" bar) to make sure the marks line up.

That should be all set.

DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT remove the grenade pin from the tensioner. If you do the tensioning correctly, pulling the pin IS THE LAST THING you need to do (since correct tension will let the pin slide easily in and out).

Well, see thats the thing, that is exactly what I'm doing, and what happens the teeth on the belt won't line up with the crank pulley, exactly what you see in the last picture i posted..
So I don't know where I making a mistake. I will try your method in a few here, and I'll get back to you.
Thanks, Austin.
 
From the picture it's clear you have way too much slack between the intake cam and the oil pump to start with.

Try backing up each sprocket a half a tooth or so to get the belt on it as tight as you can and then more it forward to the timing mark. It shouldn't go farther than the mark without moving the rest of the sprockets you have the belt on. If it does then it's still not tight enough.

None of the sprockets should move when you finally tension the belt with the tensioner pulley.

Steve
 
Well, fortunatly for me and the car's sake, I realized I had that palte with the notch that sits behinds the crank pulley on backwards(not exactly sure how I manage that). But I noticed the belt rubs marks didn't seem right to the cam timing belt, So I then fliiped it around, and what you know, everything lines up.

Just re-reading a couple write-ups on setting the tension, and now hopfully be on my way to feel the 50 trim pull. :)

As of now, I'm offically a happy camper....well in my garage.:rocks:
 
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