Timing belt install poblem

[UCSLugRacerX]

I'm installing a timing belt, but I don't have the special tool: MD998738. I know that I can build one with a dia/machine that can draw threads on a battery tie down rod, but I don't have that machine handy. Nor have I found any LONG 8mmx1.25 rods at any local hardware stores. I've found standard sizes, but using that will strip the bolt. (I hate standard measure!)
I know that the special tool pushes back the center tensioner pulley, and compresses the tensioner push rod, but I was wondering if there is another way of getting around using the special tool MD998738.

I was thinking about removing the center pulley tensioner assembly, and putting it in a bench vice clamp, and then pushing the pushrod back into the tensioner assembly housing. Then, I would center the two holes on the outside housing and the rod, and put the small 1/16 allen key to hold it in place, and then from here, bolt it back on the block, with the allen key holding in the retracted tensioner pushrod. I would then install the timing belt, and then pull out the allen key from the automatic tensioner thus adding tension.

Would this work? Or should I use the orthodoxed method?

 

[luv2rallye]

Your allen key idea IS the standard way to hold the auto tensioner pushrod in place while installing the auto tensioner and/or TB. However it does only that - just pulling it out will not adjust the TB properly. You still have to adjust the tensioner pulley. But if you can pull the allen key and adjust the tensioner pulley so that your allen key can then be put in and moved freely in the holes (after rotating crank and waiting 15 minutes for tensioner to settle), you will have it right.

Timing belt tensioning tips:

Follow the VFAQ timing belt installation procedure exactly [for 1g: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html; for 2g: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html; for home made tensioner: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbeltNOTE1.html ] with the following tips:

Replace the auto tensioner with factory one if it is leaking. And when you compress it to put the holding pin in (eg. allen wrench), compress it VERY, VERY, VERY slowly (like steps of: 1/2 turn of vise handle, then wait 30 seconds for it to settle, repeat) or you will damage the seals in the new one.

Sometimes measuring the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body (usually with a drill bit) is hard to see or do. Example: Can't get in there or see if drill bit is truly parallel to the tensioner top which affects measurement or you can’t get a 2.6 ft-lbs torque wrench on the tensioner pulley special tool #MLR-MD-998767. You can replace all that complicated tensioning torque stuff (which you can rarely get right with the engine in the car anyway - no room) with the following alternative. Just adjust the tensioner pulley so that the auto tensioner holding pin (eg. 1/16” allen wrench) moves freely all the way through the auto tensioner body and pin holes (after you turn the crankshaft and wait for the belt to stretch and auto tensioner to settle). Adjust the tensioner pulley to do this and it will automatically make the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body (drill bit measurement) be about .157 in. (spec is .150 - .177 in.). I've done over a dozen dsm TB's this way every one done correctly.

You don’t have to get the Miller tool #MLR-MD-998767 ($17.47+S&H) to adjust the tensioner pulley (with 2.6 ft-lbs torque – ya right). Instead use a 90 degree pliers in the 2 tensioner pulley holes to adjust it (you may have to cut off one of the handles to clear the compressor pulley and grind the tips a little). The other Miller tool #MLR-MD-998738 (the threaded rod for $8.55+S&H at 800-533-0492) to compress the auto tensioner, I recommend getting if you are going to do more than one TB. Otherwise you can use the VFAQ battery hold down rod idea instead (or even just the 90 degree pliers if you’re strong enough, have patience, and a partner). You’ll need the threaded rod to compress the auto tensioner to put the holding pin in (and remove) – otherwise you’ll have to remove the auto tensioner and compress it in a vise to put the holding pin in.

 

[UCSLugRacerX]

The timing belt is installed. It runs fine, and drives fine too. The only thing I see, is that I may have been off a tooth on the exhaust camgear, and it may be retarded a few degrees. There are no idling problems, nor any feelings of loss of power, but there does seem to be a more noisy valve train tick than before the timing belt install.

Is there any way to adjust the timing on my exhaust cam gear, without pulling off the entire timing belt again?

 

[luv2rallye]

Well this is where you need that threaded rod to compress the auto tensioner (#MLR-MD-998738 for $8.55+S&H at 800-533-0492). Get the real tool and you can do as many TB's as you want without damaging threads - even rent it out to friends.

Put bull dog clips on both cam pulleys to hold the TB on. Thread the rod in to compress auto tensioner until you can put the holding pin (allen key) in. Loosen tensioner pulley bolt and swing pulley all the way loose (clockwise). Remove exhaust clip and carefully slide TB off exhaust pulley (may have to slide intake side off halfway) but always keep a little upward tension on TB so it won't skip a tooth on pulleys down below. Take a wrench and rotate exhaust cam 1 tooth and put TB back on. If you can get the TB loose enough you may be able to rotate the cam without taking TB off. Redo TB tensioning proceedure.