Timing Belt Install – My “Special” Way
This article is good for any timing job but is especially good for those doing the timing job while the motor is still in the car. This was done on a 6 bolt motor, so the write up comes from that particular model. There are many ways to time a 4g63, but I just find this the easiest for me, and usually works on the very 1st try.
I start out by zip tying the belt to the timing gears in place, starting with the exhaust cam, as it normally sits pretty close to on the money already when put into place (Dowels UP and timing marks facing each other). I have a helper (or I can do it myself, it’s just easier to have a 2nd set of hands) zip tie the belt to the intake gear while it is at TDC and the timing marks lined up. Use at least 2 zip ties for each gear, 1 at the top and 1 at the bottom of the gear where the belt is still on it.
Now I install a new OEM timing tensioner, bolt it down and leave the grenade pin IN.
Next, install the timing tensioner pulley and put the 2 “eyes” for the pulley UP, at the 12 o’clock position (for a 1g) or 7 o’clock (for a 2g) and go ahead and tighten it down so it won’t move.
Next, wrap the timing belt around the tensioner pulley and onto the crank pulley while the crank is at TDC. DO NOT PUT IT AROUND THE OIL PUMP PULLEY YET.
Now take the other side of the belt (the intake side) and pull it STRAIGHT down, do not try to go around the Idler Pulley, yet.
Double check the timing marks on the cams and at the crank, they should be spot on.
Next, move the oil pump pulley 1 notch clockwise away from its normal timing spot, and gently work the belt onto the oil pump pulley. I have found that easing it on from the very bottom of the pulley and into the pulleys grooves works best as I can rotate the gear left or right slightly to get the teeth to engage. If the crank pulley moves, just put it back on TDC and continue on, you will see what I mean. One or the other will rotate a notch.
Now that that is done, grab the timing belt where it is close to the Idler Pulley and pull on it towards the front of the car (or towards the exhaust side of the motor) and coax it over the Idler Pulley. Yes, you can do this with your hands. It will rotate the oil pump gear counter-clockwise slightly when you do this.
See my picture of where my fingers are, this is where I grab it and pull on it to get it to slide over the Idler Pulley. DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER OR ANYTHING OTHER THAN YOUR HANDS.
Recheck the oil pump for being in time (along with the crank, as it can move but shouldn’t). If the oil pump didn’t end up in the correct spot, pull the belt back off of the Idler Pulley and re-adjust the oil pump gears location and put the belt back on over the Idler Pulley the way I described above. Re-check all timing marks.
If all went well (and it usually does on the 1st try for me), the crank, oil pump and cam gears will all be lined up and in time (the cam gears CAN’T move so they had better still be lined up). The only thing left for you to do is to pull the grenade pin on the tensioner and see if will slide back in like butter or if you will need to re-tension it slightly at the tensioner pulley that we set at 12 o’clock (for a 1g), or 7 o’clock (for a 2g).
You can now snip the zip ties and test the grenade pin again.
I go ahead and rotate the motor 6 full turns, until the motor is in time again, cams, crank and oil pump all lined up.
Check the grenade pin to see if it will slide in and out of its hole. If not, re-adjust the timing tensioner pulley slightly one way or the other. I do use this tool to adjust the tensioner pulley.
I can usually tell if I need to loosen it or tighten it by feeling how the grenade pin will hit or touch as it tries to go into the back alignment hole.
I also use this tool and thread it into the intake side to hold the timing tensioner in place if I don’t have an extra helper doing this job.
Here is a picture of a timing job using all of the timing tools instead of using my method, for reference.
I hope this made the job easier and didn’t confuse anyone. If you have ANY questions about this procedure, just shoot me a PM and I can help. If you find a flaw in these instructions, please let me know so I can correct it!
Thanks,
Marty
This article is good for any timing job but is especially good for those doing the timing job while the motor is still in the car. This was done on a 6 bolt motor, so the write up comes from that particular model. There are many ways to time a 4g63, but I just find this the easiest for me, and usually works on the very 1st try.
I start out by zip tying the belt to the timing gears in place, starting with the exhaust cam, as it normally sits pretty close to on the money already when put into place (Dowels UP and timing marks facing each other). I have a helper (or I can do it myself, it’s just easier to have a 2nd set of hands) zip tie the belt to the intake gear while it is at TDC and the timing marks lined up. Use at least 2 zip ties for each gear, 1 at the top and 1 at the bottom of the gear where the belt is still on it.
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Now I install a new OEM timing tensioner, bolt it down and leave the grenade pin IN.
Next, install the timing tensioner pulley and put the 2 “eyes” for the pulley UP, at the 12 o’clock position (for a 1g) or 7 o’clock (for a 2g) and go ahead and tighten it down so it won’t move.
Next, wrap the timing belt around the tensioner pulley and onto the crank pulley while the crank is at TDC. DO NOT PUT IT AROUND THE OIL PUMP PULLEY YET.
Now take the other side of the belt (the intake side) and pull it STRAIGHT down, do not try to go around the Idler Pulley, yet.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Double check the timing marks on the cams and at the crank, they should be spot on.
Next, move the oil pump pulley 1 notch clockwise away from its normal timing spot, and gently work the belt onto the oil pump pulley. I have found that easing it on from the very bottom of the pulley and into the pulleys grooves works best as I can rotate the gear left or right slightly to get the teeth to engage. If the crank pulley moves, just put it back on TDC and continue on, you will see what I mean. One or the other will rotate a notch.
Now that that is done, grab the timing belt where it is close to the Idler Pulley and pull on it towards the front of the car (or towards the exhaust side of the motor) and coax it over the Idler Pulley. Yes, you can do this with your hands. It will rotate the oil pump gear counter-clockwise slightly when you do this.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
See my picture of where my fingers are, this is where I grab it and pull on it to get it to slide over the Idler Pulley. DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER OR ANYTHING OTHER THAN YOUR HANDS.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Recheck the oil pump for being in time (along with the crank, as it can move but shouldn’t). If the oil pump didn’t end up in the correct spot, pull the belt back off of the Idler Pulley and re-adjust the oil pump gears location and put the belt back on over the Idler Pulley the way I described above. Re-check all timing marks.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
If all went well (and it usually does on the 1st try for me), the crank, oil pump and cam gears will all be lined up and in time (the cam gears CAN’T move so they had better still be lined up). The only thing left for you to do is to pull the grenade pin on the tensioner and see if will slide back in like butter or if you will need to re-tension it slightly at the tensioner pulley that we set at 12 o’clock (for a 1g), or 7 o’clock (for a 2g).
You can now snip the zip ties and test the grenade pin again.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I go ahead and rotate the motor 6 full turns, until the motor is in time again, cams, crank and oil pump all lined up.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Check the grenade pin to see if it will slide in and out of its hole. If not, re-adjust the timing tensioner pulley slightly one way or the other. I do use this tool to adjust the tensioner pulley.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I can usually tell if I need to loosen it or tighten it by feeling how the grenade pin will hit or touch as it tries to go into the back alignment hole.
I also use this tool and thread it into the intake side to hold the timing tensioner in place if I don’t have an extra helper doing this job.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Here is a picture of a timing job using all of the timing tools instead of using my method, for reference.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I hope this made the job easier and didn’t confuse anyone. If you have ANY questions about this procedure, just shoot me a PM and I can help. If you find a flaw in these instructions, please let me know so I can correct it!
Thanks,
Marty
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