Time For a New Clutch & Performance Advice

[RuthlessZ]

Okay guys, first I tried searching, and this isn't your normal clutch thread. If I messed up by posting sorry in advance

July 3rd I purchased a 1991 Talon TSI AWD, car has ~17k on engine rebuild 210k original miles. This is my first car, yes I knew what I was getting into. So before I ask my question I'm just gonna say what I've done since getting the car.

1. Oil Change Mobil 1 10w30 Synthetic
2. Turned Boost Down From 14 PSI to 10 PSI
3. Installed an AEM Wideband
4. Installed a Walbro 190
5. Installed a Fuelab 515 AFPR

It already had:

1. Big 16G Turbo
2. Apexi N1 Exhaust
3. Turbo XS Boost Controller
4. Glow Shift Boost Gauge (In the stupidest location ever, the 1G cigarette lighter hole)
5. FMIC

Now recently my power steering pump took a dump, leaked fluid all over my alternator, alternator has been smoking though putting out the right voltage. I'm waiting to see what it does. My new pump will be here Monday, now onto the question.

I learned to drive stick on this car, not sure what clutch is in it. Last night I raced my friends WRX from a roll, I would've beat him, sorry guys, when I went to shift, here is the order of events:
1. Hit 6.5k
2. Clutch In
3. Shift to 3rd
4. Clutch Out
5. Jerk/Bucking CEL On, car will NOT accelerate
6. Clutch In
7. Put Car in 4th
8. Clutch Out
9. Car runs smooth as butter

What the hell, I raced my other friends Corolla form a stop and it did the same thing going from 1-2, still won though. The denominator seems to be high rev shifting. No matter what when I shifted at highish RPMS anything above 5.5k the car would jerk and buck and refuse to accelerate, upped the gear, ran fine. My clutch engages way later pedal wise than when I bought the car, so I'm 90% sure it's a bad clutch but want more experienced opinions, I've only been interested in cars for like 3 months.

Now onto performance advice I just wanted to run my plans by people who know whats up. Along with everything I've done, I want to get DSMLink V3, get my ECU socketed, and get some FIC 750cc injectors, If my clutch is indeed bad, then I will be getting an ACT 2600. My goal is ~350-400WHP. Sorry for the wall of text guys, I was trying to be thorough. Also my idle is super lean 15-16, WOT is 10.5-11.3ish.

Also here it is I feel I have an obligation to mod this car right with how nice it is for a 1g. So please help guys, Thanks in advance.

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ETA: I've only run 93 Octane in this car.

 

[RuthlessZ]

Just from my experience I've had a prong break off the pressure plate and shoot clean out of my bell housing. Luckily didn't hit anything else as it flew out. From what I've read, they are notorious for snapping in DSMs.

That's crazy, most people seem to like them, and the ones that don't, seem to hate them. I'll figure it out. Like I said, I got a used ACT 2600 clutch for cheap, if it's usable I'll probably go with it, if not I'll search other solutions.

 

[Styxyr]

That's crazy, most people seem to like them, and the ones that don't, seem to hate them. I'll figure it out. Like I said, I got a used ACT 2600 clutch for cheap, if it's usable I'll probably go with it, if not I'll search other solutions.

Alright man, Hope whatever you decide that it works out great!

 

[Twinturbo120]

If it helps, I use to have a 2600 6 puck sprung. The pedal was perfect, and you could slip it too. Idk why people talk crap about them. Maybe they didn't get the right clutch for their application.

 

[RuthlessZ]

Alright man, Hope whatever you decide that it works out great!

Thanks man, we'll see haha.

Also I checked, that line on my BOV goes to the front of my intake.

 

[Styxyr]

If it helps, I use to have a 2600 6 puck sprung. The pedal was perfect, and you could slip it too. Idk why people talk crap about them. Maybe they didn't get the right clutch for their application.

I've just had bad experience with the pressure plates, clutches never had an issue with if I snatched a pressure plate from another company. 6 pucks are fun, though.

 

[Awd-laser]

I love my ACT 6 puck unsprung just make sure you have the pp, disc, and flywheel balanced together. Btw I saw earlier, the clutch will drag if it's misadjusted, the pivot ball needs shimmed, or you just have a weak/leaking master or slave cyl.

 

[RuthlessZ]

I love my ACT 6 puck unsprung just make sure you have the pp, disc, and flywheel balanced together. Btw I saw earlier, the clutch will drag if it's misadjusted, the pivot ball needs shimmed, or you just have a weak/leaking master or slave cyl.

Is that considered dragging? I can rev my car to 7k with the pedal down and the car won't move.


My only real issue is if I shift and let the clutch out anywhere above 5.5k the clutch doesn't seem to want to grab the car jerks and buck and I have to up shift.

I just don't understand what it could be, my clutch seems to grab fine from a stop, I accelerated hard from first when I raced my friend with no slippage or hiccups at all. It's only an issue when shifting.

ETA:
Thanks again for all the help guys, really appreciate it.

 

[Styxyr]

I love my ACT 6 puck unsprung just make sure you have the pp, disc, and flywheel balanced together. Btw I saw earlier, the clutch will drag if it's misadjusted, the pivot ball needs shimmed, or you just have a weak/leaking master or slave cyl.

Since I'm here and you seem to know more about 5 speeds than I do. Replaced my master cyl about 4 months ago, clutch about 3 weeks ago, just hit 400 miles into the break in anyway, It's frustrating to get into first. Have to go into second (goes right in) then throw it into 1st. Clutch is adjusted properly, I don't feel any air in the lines but I'm gonna bleed it again to double check, think it's a bad slave cyl? I used to race it hard...that's why I hope It's not the trans xD

 

[RuthlessZ]

So guys ready for an embarrassing follow up on this issue? Turns out that my issue was actual just a POS Ebay strut bar. Evidently when I shifted my motor was jumping enough to cause the battery to arch of the strut bar shutting down the car Took the strut bar off, zero issues since.

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Onto the new problem.....

I lost my alternator tensioner (fell of while driving, after causing my belt to brake, and water pump to stop, and car to smoke...), does anyone have a part number or source for a new one? To clarify I need the 2 bolts, and the odd dog house looking thing.

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[motomattx]

Your lucky you still have your car some have gone down over a strut bar that touched the battery.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

It really shouldn't matter how much the engine moves if the battery is attached to the battery tray.

 

[RuthlessZ]

Your lucky you still have your car some have gone down over a strut bar that touched the battery.

Really, eeek, that's scary. Guess I was lucky.

It really shouldn't matter how much the engine moves if the battery is attached to the battery tray.

Yeah that's the explanation I was given, maybe it was more of an issue with the strut bar flexing from the jerking of shifting at high rpm, or just the larger electrical load on the car at high rpm.

 

[Awd-laser]

@styxyr did you use an oem TOB?