Spyder Throttle cable replacement? and various questions

[Sauce Dog]

Hey speed racers. My '98 Spyder GS-T has a very ripped throttle cable. it's driveable, but hanging on by legit one thread of metal wire. Can i just buy a universal cable to replace the one that's on it? will i need to go pull on from a junkyard? it's the cable on the back of the engine, right between where it mounts to the engine and the actual throttle body is where the rip is.

Also, it breaks up in 3rd. I just put a brand spanking new clutch in it, SBC stage 1, and when i put it in 3rd and get into boost it breaks up really bad. no other gears does it do that. I also need to put new gas in it, it has been sitting for about 7 months so my thoughts are just bad gas but it could be timing or spark? it has NGK wires and plugs are new.

Oh, and this is a stupid question, but could it still be running but not have an ECU? when i bought the car it had no radio, you could see into the dash and it was a mess of wires. i'm probably being paranoid, but when i looked in there for the ECU i didn't see it.

Thanks so much for your time.

 

[ThunderChild]

I'd try to find a stock style throttle cable, Miller import parts or @dacowgod might have something for you.

Sounds like some basic maintenance and troubleshooting is needed, I'd start with checking timing, plugs, wires, fuel filter, injector service, check fuel pressure etc.

No, the car wouldn't be able to run without an ECU.

 

[rEclipserGST]

ECU is on the floor, under the center console. Near your gas pedal, on the right.

 

[Sauce Dog]

I'd try to find a stock style throttle cable, Miller import parts or @dacowgod might have something for you.

Sounds like some basic maintenance and troubleshooting is needed, I'd start with checking timing, plugs, wires, fuel filter, injector service, check fuel pressure etc.

No, the car wouldn't be able to run without an ECU.

i see. i'll be referring back to this comment a bit for direction, so thank you. i'll look more into this and when the snow clears i'll be able to get a better idea of what's wrong.. i was thinking it can't be anything major, you know? thanks for the insight.

 

[Sauce Dog]

ECU is on the floor, under the center console. Near your gas pedal, on the right.

okay i'll check for it again but I have learned that it wouldn't run without one. like i said, stupid question but it did sit up on the north side for quite a while at the shop and some guy broke into it and stole the steering wheel out of it.. i got a stock one with no airbag now. we found some other random shit in the car, bolts and shit, so i was just paranoid.

 

[ThunderChild]

Also don't forget to do a BLT.

 

[Sauce Dog]

Also don't forget to do a BLT.

what does BLT mean in this context?

 

[jinscho]

what does BLT mean in this context?

Boost Leak Test.

 

[ThunderChild]

Boost Leak Test.

Yes. Though tasty sandwiches and car maintenance need not be relegated to exclusive events.

 

[Sauce Dog]

Would a BLT be something I could do at home? I don't have a garage so it's really hard to work on it in the winter

I did manage to get it out on the road yesterday and any time i would boost it, it would stutter and fail. like anything past 3.5k or 4k would make the car stutter. i could hear the turbo spooling, but the engine felt like it wasn't getting any of the boost. i was fairly confident it was a boost leak but my dad really doesn't seem to think so. he think's it's fuel or spark.

Okay update, I drove it today, and it won't grab gears. I just put a new stage 1 clutch in it and barely have 12 miles on the car since. I fixed the boost leak but now the clutch will not grab at all. is it possible i could've toasted the new clutch in only 12 miles? keep in mind i literally only have been able to do 1 or 2 pulls in the car, and not hard ones. i just had to make sure the boost wasn't leaking anymore.

so now i put the car in gear and let out on the clutch and it revs fine, it just won't go. i legit just paid 350 to get the clutch installed and a little more for the clutch, and i had to park it at the end of my driveway because i couldn't get it up the hill. had to coast it home.

I think it's important to note that the clutch pedal seems different now. when it's depressed all the way, it's almost like it doesn't want me to go into gear. but if i push it a little over halfway down, it lets me go into gear fine. maybe it just needs a clutch adjustment? or linkage adjustment?

 

[ThunderChild]

A boost leak tester can be made for about $20-30 worth of home Depot parts and pieces, but you'll need an air compressor to complete the test. The symptoms you're describing certainly sounds like a boost leak, still wise to check all general maintenance stuff in conjunction with the BLT.

HERE is a link to give you an idea.

it also sounds like your clutch isn't adjusted properly, did you have a shop do this or did you do the install?

I can't get the video to hyperlink, but if you Google "DSM clutch adjustment" you will see Jack's video on how to make sure the clutch system is set up correctly.

Hopefully your clutch isn't toast, you'll have to make sure all pieces are working correctly.

 

[Sauce Dog]

i had my dad's friend who's been a wrench all his life put it in for me because i don't have a garage. it came with and adjustment tool, i can't imagine he's done it incorrectly, he had a lift in his garage and a really nice set up, and my dad also seemed very confident he would do it well. he's not like an old man or anything, no spring chicken but... i dunno. if i had a garage or even if it was warm out i would jack this thing up outside and see for myself. i just need jackstands.

 

[ThunderChild]

Not that I'd call it complicated, but there are alot of aspects to a dsm clutch job that often get overlooked and easily missed, so I'd double check everything.

 

[Sauce Dog]

Not that I'd call it complicated, but there are alot of aspects to a dsm clutch job that often get overlooked and easily missed, so I'd double check everything.

okay i definitely will. i'll adjust the clutch pedal in the morning, i watched jack's video on it. will i need to drop the transmission? inspect the clutch?

 

[ThunderChild]

Depending on what it's doing after ensuring all other aspects are working correctly, you may have to drop the trans to inspect the clutch itself.

From what you described, it sounds like the clutch isn't fully releasing and is dragging, but also not getting full clamp when off the pedal?

Start with bleeding properly, then adjusting, then decide if you'll have to remove the trans to do more work like: replacing pivot ball, fork, checking flywheel step height, throwout bearing condition etc.

What kind of clutch was installed?

 

[Sauce Dog]

Depending on what it's doing after ensuring all other aspects are working correctly, you may have to drop the trans to inspect the clutch itself.

From what you described, it sounds like the clutch isn't fully releasing and is dragging, but also not getting full clamp when off the pedal?

Start with bleeding properly, then adjusting, then decide if you'll have to remove the trans to do more work like: replacing pivot ball, fork, checking flywheel step height, throwout bearing condition etc.

What kind of clutch was installed?

dammit. i knew i'd be in over my head. and yes, the clutch is not fully ENGAGING as in when i put it in gear and come back OFF the clutch, and let it fully out, the clutch is not engaging the flywheel and is slipping big times. i don't have any problem with the clutch dragging. if anything it doesn't make enough contact because in first i can get it going a little bit but as soon as i put it in second it just revs and revs but won't grab the gear. first is the same way except it grabs better and it will hold boost where as if i give it boost in 2nd it just spins the flywheel.

I dont have a garage or jack stands, and it's too low to get under or i would get down there and bleed the system a little bit. it's a stage 1 south bend clutch K05048-HD. the guy that put the clutch in told me to go ahead and bring it on by and he would have a look at it, which is a blessing because i couldn't begin to get into the transmission... i would have to pull it out in the gravel driveway... on a hill.

EDIT: is there anything i should tell the guy when i bring the car to him? like " hey this is different from most cars and you should do it like this " or anything of that nature?

 

[ThunderChild]

Not necessarily, just that he needs to look at all aspects of the clutch system to locate the problem.

It almost sounds like the flywheel step height was improperly machined leaving too much gap, so the disc can't fully grab. Usually if hydraulics or adjustment we're the problem, the pedal feels wiers or you have the opposite effect; clutch won't disengage or it drags.

 

[Sauce Dog]

that's exactly what i thought. it's not dragging, so idk why it would be the hydraulic adjustment. i'm gonna start there anyways. the thing is though, he never touched the flywheel. he only made sure it was smooth and it was. then he plopped the clutch in. and it won't grab now... so idk. i have to get it back up to him and he'll figure it out.

 

[Sauce Dog]

hey guys i adjusted the clutch and it grabs great!!! it was adjusted too far out. had to have my dad get under the dash cause im too big but i pushed the slave and couldn't push it... then we adjusted it till i could and now it's mint.