The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

thinking about buying first DSM...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TRiskProduction

Probationary Member
2
0
Sep 14, 2015
Newark, Delaware
Hello to all! I am currently debating on purchasing my first DSM. I have always loved them and I think Its time. I do have some questions. How much power do you think this is putting out based on mods? And how much do you think this is worth? its a 95 TSI AWD the 6 bolt came from a non turbo but the longblock has been taken apart, decked, honed, all new parts, etc. Here are the mods.


Greddy cold air intake
Evo III Big 16g turbo (real, purchased from extremepsi)
Greddy big front mount intercooler and piping
Greddy type S BOV
6 bolt swap engine with built bottom end (less than 10k miles since rebuild by blitz automotive)
Eagle rods and Ross pistons bored .020 and new stock crank
balance shaft delete, new oil pump/ front case, gaskets, water pump, timing bent, tensioner, etc during rebuild
Cosmetic metal head gasket.
Tubular exhaust and o2 manifold (heat wrapped)
2.5 inch downpipe (heat wrapped)
2.5 inch to 3 inch high flow cat
Greddy 3 inch cat back exhaust
Fic 650 cc fuel injectors
Act 2600 clutch (about 15k miles)
Fidanza lightweight flywheel (about 10k miles, don't during rebuild)
New slave and master cylinder within past 2 years.
Walbro 255 lph required fuel pump
Aeromotive a1000 adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Cruise control delete ( wasn't giving the car full 0-100 TPS reading)
EGR delete (cleaned up engine bay, smoothed oil idle and response, less room for boost leak. No check engine lights and just passed inspection with no issues)
Tagged until 2017
Mitsubishi eclipse front bumper
Painted interior black with blue highlights.
Trunk is pretty stripped. No windshield wiper fluid reservoir. Has spare but no jack (it was old and rusted)
Turbo blanket wrapped turbo manifold.
Slimline fans.
Dsmlink full v3
Currently safely tuned to 20 psi with no knock for summer air temps with injector duty cycles around low 70%. Setup handles 25 psi safely when the air gets cooler.
Tinted windows.
Koenig 17 inch polished aluminum rims plasti dipped black.
Short throw shifter with greddy counterweight shift knob.
Apexi turbo timer
30 vac-30 psi apexi carbon fiber boost gauge
Oil pressure electric gauge
Aem wideband gauge.
Hallman pro boost controller


130,000 on the body. Original Trans.
 
It's worth whatever you're willing to pay and we couldn't tell you power levels based on mods as we try to avoid bench racing. Not trying to sound like a jerk but we see these threads almost daily. What would scare me is the part about the boost changing 5psi with changing seasons...sounds to me like he's really pushing the setup, which is a red flag IMHO.
 
Thank you for your response. You dont sound like a jerk, I'm not new to car forums and i know posts like this happen every day LOL. I'm all over Audizine and we see it all the time. We live near philadelphia which means really hot summers, and freezing winters. He says its tuned conservatively at 20PSI, but I dont know a WHOLE lot about the 4g63. When i go to test drive this week are there any specific questions you think i should ask ?

I currently own a
2001 B5 A4
1999 FBI Suburban 2500
1990 4Runner (280,000 miles)
1992 Miata
I know im a newb here, I just dont want to spend too much on something that is going to need a lot more money put into repairs or anything. He says he has the receipts for everything and has owned it for 10 years.
 
Since it seems like your buying a pretty modified car I would pay more attention to the guy who owned it. You can tell a lot from the person who owned it as how the car was maintained and treated. When you drive it make sure you watch the wideband gauge, make sure hes cruising at around 14.7 and if you get into boost it stays in the 10's/mid 11's just to make sure the tune is somewhat okay and nothing out of the ordinary. You said he has an oil pressure gauge so make sure you watch that, rule of thumb is around 10 psi for every 1k rpm. Im avoiding the "maintenance questions" because apparently everything is ether new or almost new. Trans is stock so id make sure theres no grinding. Didnt mention anything about the awd so im assuming nothings touched there. See if hes changed the diff and transfer fluids/ check if theyre leaking. A locked transfer or diff will ruin your day ROFL. Obviously check for anything leaking under the car as well.
 
Thank you for your response. You dont sound like a jerk, I'm not new to car forums and i know posts like this happen every day LOL. I'm all over Audizine and we see it all the time. We live near philadelphia which means really hot summers, and freezing winters. He says its tuned conservatively at 20PSI, but I dont know a WHOLE lot about the 4g63. When i go to test drive this week are there any specific questions you think i should ask ?

I'm in Indiana so I understand the summer/winter thing but I don't get why you'd change the tune to make more power in the winter LOL.
 
If your hoping to not put alot more money into it I would honestly look for a slightly modded to stock car for now and upgrade yourself when you can because if something lets go on this car its not going to be cheap. And you don't know who was wrenching on it could be a amazing buy or could be just about to die.
 
It's worth what you are willing to pay. If it has a rebuilt motor I'd jump at it just because it gives you room to grow. I would want paperwork to prove a engine rebuild from a shop tho. "NEW" is always what you don't see. And 20psi is too high for an MHI internal wastegate so 25 is stupid. Best advice to give is: someone beat the snot out of this car at some point in the last 25 years and you could be the one who has to pay for it. Don't be taken. And be willing to walk away.
 
Personally I'd never buy a highly modified car without proof of exactly what's in it and thst it's all done right. In my opinion when it comes to a vehicle thst has a lot of modifications and time invested thst is up for sale then something is probably wrong and he either can't figure it out norm is tired of blowing thru money. Just be careful and have a good respected mechanic check iut the car thoroughly even if it.means paying 200 for a full run over checking everything it would be better than dropping 4k and having it in the shop next month rebuilding the engine or trans
 
I'd shy away, rebuilt definitely doesn't mean expected to last a long time. The many posts I've read here just in the last six months indicate that a recently rebuilt motor is a risk factor for impending car death spiral. Not saying some rebuilds aren't great, just reading posts here:dsm:
 
It has link so ask to see a couple logs, look for excessive amounts of knock and all that good stuff.

Make sure you take a buddy with you that knows DSM's better than you do.

Do a compression test if you could as well.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top