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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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Oil line is 4 bolts, 2 gaskets, and if it's anything like mine, rusted to ####. Probably just order a new one and be done with it. A stock 1g turbo car was originally quoted at 195hp or so, meaning that 220 at the wheels isn't far. The stock turbo can take you far, so unless it's toast, no need to mess with it. Do the mantainance, clean it it up while your at it, and enjoy :thumb:
 
As soon as your done with maintenance get rid of those hideous wheels
 
Finding the 16 inch "lace" wheels for the Ply are harder to find than the "turbine" wheels of the Eclipse and the "swirlies" of the Eagle.

(Forgot to add: the Ply's did have autos with either the 1.8L or the 2.0NT, but the Turbo RS only received the 5sp for those two "1Ga" years..my bad in forgetting to post this prior..
 
Finding the 16 inch "lace" wheels for the Ply are harder to find than the "turbine" wheels of the Eclipse and the "swirlies" of the Eagle.

1Gb's Ply's had their "Lace" wheels painted black, not the bare aluminum as our 1Ga's are..

(Forgot to add: the Ply's did have autos with either the 1.8L or the 2.0NT, but the Turbo RS only received the 5sp for those two "1Ga" years..my bad in forgetting to post this prior..)


That's not necessarily a bad thing that they're hard to find... and quit showing off your laser knowledge :p
 
sorry... :D (got carried away...)

EDIT: But, let's get back on topic - Simply put - take care of the car, and it will take care of you. Don't expect too much on return when you do the mods since you've got close to a 20 yr old vehicle in the first place and doing mods on an old vehicle will not garnish any big return if and when you sell it. It's just something that is always against us when buying something older that haven't reached collectable status.

Good luck in the meantime.... - DSM
 
Once your done with maintenance. I suggest you get KYB AGX suspension, either the new avid engine mounts or engine mounts polyurethane inserts. Once you through with that clutch upgrade that too. Us FWDers really need those mods ASAP. LSD is great too but expensive. By the way do just want a better daily driver or do you want it set up for like Drag, Autox, or etc....?

Edit: i know what you mean about taking out them honda boys. I'm doing the same thing but more against my boy that loves honda and has a crx. He talks mad sh!t. So i raced him and i lost but barely because my damn stock engine mounts were shot and slipping clutch i had at the time. I was going to do it up again but he blew his engine and now he is putting an all-motor H2B swap. H2B swapped hondas do high 12s to mid 11s in a ¼mile if tuned right, so i have one hell of a challenge ahead of me especially since it's hard to get our FWD into 12s.
 
However, its an auto and is priced at $9500. This car has been listed and relisted for the past few months. I personally would not pay that much for an auto, heck I wouldnt even buy an auto (just my personal opinion). However if it was manual, I would give him $9500 in a heart beat.

Some of you may know that I recently bought a black on black special edition 10th anniversary 99 GSX with 24,000 original miles. And this other low mileage one is only a few miles from where I live. Looks like I have to drive mine less to keep it the lowest mileage GSX in the eastcoast, or perhaps in the USA. Now a 96 GSX manual with 26k miles would beat mine hands down, considering it would be 3 years older.

What would you guys pay for this, or would you even buy it?

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX Turbo
 
the car looks amazing...other than the word "auto". LOL buy it and do a tranny swap or something
 
Hey everyone. I am new to the dsm world but have been doing alot of researching. I recently moved to a new area and was looking into getting a different vehicle. i came across a 1st gen eagle talon fwd. Here are a list of mods.


Big 16G Turbo at 14 psi
Motegi Mr1 wheels
Greddy Type S Blow off valve
Razo short throw shifter
Full 3” Magnaflow exhaust
Boost Gauge pod
2.5” Intercooler Piping
Vac Reduction mod with EGR Delete
Fully Ported and polished head and Intake
Kyb Lowering springs (can go lower)
Aem Intake
Blitz Turbo Timer
New Timing belt and Balance Shaft belt
New Borg Warner Clutch
Pace Setter Headers
Front and rear Stabilizer bar

I can get it for 3k cash. It only has 112k miles on it. If i could get any input into if you think this is a good deal. I drove the car yesterday and its a pretty clean car. I just want some extra input on the situation.

A few things i noticed though, Since its a b16g i wanna do fuel upgrades asap. I've been looking but i want a clear answer on what the best situation is. Do i go, 255 pump, bigger injectors and dsm link.. Or do i get an S-AFC II instead of the dsm link.. Thats the main part i've been confused on.

Also i noticed the aftermarket boost gauge wasnt smooth it was like clunky when it was moving. anyone know why this could be?

Anythings i should be looking for when i go look at the car again. The car seems like a sound car and im ready to buy i just want to get some more opinions on the matter.

Thanks
-Andrew
 
I'd be a little hesitant...the guys dropped quite a bit of money on this car but skimped on fuel mods? Where else did he cut corners?

And a 255 Walbro, a set of 650's, and SAFC will set your fuel up just fine. DSMLink will always be a better option...but personally I don't have a grand to drop on it. :idontknow:
 
I'd be a little hesitant...the guys dropped quite a bit of money on this car but skimped on fuel mods? Where else did he cut corners?

And a 255 Walbro, a set of 650's, and SAFC will set your fuel up just fine. DSMLink will always be a better option...but personally I don't have a grand to drop on it. :idontknow:

You will also need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to go with that 255 Walbro or risk overrunning your stock regulator.

Also I would be a bit cautious as well, as thatblondechik pointed out you never know what a person has done to a car before you, even more so when it comes to a modded one.

Check it for rust all over, do a compression check if possible, and just look for any little things you can see that you would need to fix later.

On the tuning issue I myself prefer DSMLink over S-AFC II, it really has so many more features its worth the money. Plus it will really grow with your car if/ when you decide you want to really modify it. Also the car may already have an eprom ecu and you would just need it socketed.
 
Thanks for the quick response. I asked him why he didnt do any fuel upgrades to it, he just gave that he didnt want to run it at high boost yet so he always kept it low. The reason he is getting rid of it is cause he has a vr-4 now that he is working on.

Since the car is running 14psi.. Should i be super worried about something happening to the engine anytime soon. I wanna upgrade the fuel asap, but it might be a month or 2 before i can get it done.

Any reason why the boost gauge would be clunky when its moving and not smooth?
 
What brand of gauge is it? Some of the cheaper ones don't have smooth or accurate movement.

When I replaced all my vacuum lines with new ones my gauge got much smoother.
 
im not sure what kind of brand it is.. I believe its not a super expensive one or anything.

So should i worry about the car running 14psi? Is that putting any excessive wear to the engine. I know im a complete n00b to this. I've been reading alot and learning alot i just like to hear others opinions.

Thanks for all the input already!
 
I myself feel that is pushing it on the stock fuel system but you will probably be ok. I would turn it down a touch until you can get some proper fuel mods in there. I would rewire the the fuel pump when you do the new pump install. It will help give you stable power to the pump at all times.
 
Kyb Lowering springs (can go lower)
_ When did they make springs?

Pace Setter Headers
_A turbo car does not have a header, or headers...

I would have someone that knows alot about DSM's to go up there with you to check it out.
 
Hi Everyone,
Im brand new to the DSM World, and only have a bit more than basic automotive experience. I am about to buy my first DSM, kind of a project/learning/daily driver. Would I like to run 10s some day, yes. Do I expect it out of this car, no. I am looking just to get a little experience under my belt, and stay with a very tight budget. I am in the Army, and deployed, and hoping to have my project waiting on me when I get back home.

So onto the car...

I think I have found my dream car. Its a 1991 Talon TSI AWD. Ive been shopping for a while, and this seems like a great deal. I am just going to copy some details out of the classified ad, as well as an email.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD - Don't want to but, Need to get rid of car. Moving and don't have room for a project car at the new house. I am not parting this car out!
=About 1200 miles on rebuild (metal head gasket)= about $1200 spent on rebuild
=New MHI EVO 16G turbo= Paid $600 new from Forced performance
=Megan racing 3" cat back Exhaust= Paid $300 From Slow Boy
=Apex-i AFC= (I asked, gen 2)
=Eibach drop springs=
=Autometer boost and AFR gauges in a-pillar dual pod=
=Socketable ECU=
*Needs state inspection*
CAR NEEDS SOME LOVE!
Post pics tomorrow!

$1400
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Are you aware of anything wrong with the car? springs good but going to need new front struts

How does the transmission feel? I was told trans was rebuilt when i bought it has felt solid to me. clutch was not bad when i put i back

Tread on tires? Good

Paint/body damage?best if you come look

When did it pass its last inspection? they said there was a hole near the down pipe, that's why it failed last month.

You said it needs some TLC, elaborate please.--------Interior needs some work. body does not have any big dents in it but after i bought it I found out that it was hit in the passenger side. it was bondoed
+all in all, I was going to install a new down pipe, Front struts, Ball joints, Tie rod ends, and replace the right outside half shaft boot.
Like i said the car need TLC. never had a lot of time (deploying 2 times and countless times to the field) to work on car. got engine in and some little things that all.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I talked on the phone to the owner, and he seems legit. I asked alot of questions, and he seemed forthcoming. Small crack on pass front window, fairly new paint but not a good job, suspension problems listed above but all still functioning, engine was professionally rebuilt not asr head bolts, old boost controller not installed just using wastegate. Interior decent for age which isnt very good.

My wife, who is very compitent, but knows little about automotive will be doing a good inspection with instructions given from me (from a good checklist I found online).

From the pictures the car looks good.... from what you can see in a picture....

I'm waiting on a VIN to run Carfax.

What does everyone think? Suggestions/Advice?

Thanks in advance,
Steve
 
Bondo, bad paint, $1400...You're taking a roll of the dice. At $1400, you're buying a disposable car. It might be driveable, it might be a nightmare. If you need a DD, then you should drive it yourself first. If $1400 is disposable, then have fun, and good luck.:dsm:

Just be prepared to enter the DSM world of nightmares and horror. Advance auto skills is preferred for these cars, and a nice tool box, and a jack and four jack stands.

I go with the evo though
 
If your heart is set on owning a DSM, and this one turns out to be a dud after the buy, you will still have a (hopefully true) MHI e316g, an APEXi AFC, and an eprom ecu that all could potentially go on a newer car if this one doesn't work out.

But like RockIt says, with it being a DSM, expect to be doing a bit of work on it. But following a Haynes manual and the tech threads on here there shouldn't be much that you can't do.
 
Sounds like a good find. It can definitely be a project car. Thats the same year and model I have. I would just look into emissions, depending on where you are. It has an aftermarket exhaust so it might have the megan straight piping, no cat. the add stated it needs to be inspected. New downpipe isnt too much, maybe 300 if you wanna spend alot.


But since you are in the army, and may be deployed most of the time, you may not need to worry about passing inspection for a while.

And since it is a project car, you might have to put the work into to changing, spark plugs, wires, timing belt, waterpump etc.

As far as project cars, it totally worth it, you will enjoy the modification you can do yourself.

I also see that this is your first post, I do not know if you search the forums for DSM realted material, but there is a guide to help you out with modification Tech guide 1g. Its going to help out alot. They are alot of work, but a joy to have, since you are looking for a hobby. That is exactly what it is, a hobby.
 
Ok, so what would y'all pay for my car?

1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder, converted to AWD
AEM EMS
AEM Wideband o2
T3 PTE SC63 Turbo
BJ Intake Manifold
3" IC piping
1450cc custom FIC fuel injectors peak and hold
Hayabusa ignition coils
Dynatek ignition module
3" exhaust
4" FMIC
TCE HD Race Front 13.0 x 1.25 with FSL caliper brake kit (stops ####ing FAST)
Front, center and rear LSD
Crower 414 cams
4g64 block/crank
eagle rods wiseco pistons
38mm tial wastegate and BOV
Bosch 044 pump with -6AN lines
Aeromotive FPR
DDM HID D2S Retrofit Kit w/5000k bulbs
Megan Racing coilovers
Passport 9500ci w/zr3 laser shifters (yes, they work fantastically heh)
Turbosmart E-Boost boost controller
Rota Slipstream rims
1g DSM head
Crower retainers and springs
AN fittings and braided SS lines for all vacuum lines/fittings
 
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