The 5K stutter cutout misfire stumble breakup Thread [Merged 7-8]

[Newlogics]

My project 92 Talon just wouldn't be nice to me.

I figured that my smoking problem was due to my turbo leaking oil, since upper IC pipe had whole bunch of oil in it.

Now more porblems arize....

1st: It wouldn't idle normally, instead it revs up to 2K and drops back to 1K every like 2 sec. if idle is adjusted to be lower then 1100 rpm

2nd: When rmp reach 5K under WOT, it hesitates violently. As soon as rpms drop a bit, it's fine again.

(The good thing I fix the unlock buttons, 'cause it had shaved handles and you couldn't get inside by any means except a trunk....)

 

[swarm]

go get new plugs/wires, boostleak check, check for shaft play, and check fuel pressure. what are your o2 readings at? post the log.

incase you couldn't understand that, that means "yeah, it can be" Obviously you didn't use the search function.

My post WAS constructive, because I gave ideas as to what else it could be. Sorry I don't read minds and know exactly what you've already tried.

I asked a legitimate question and everything you named I have already checked over the weekend before this problem started. I was planning on changing the plugs after work but wanted to get an idea of something else if that doesn't work.

Isn't that what I was trying to do? Oh yeah.

I just got dsmlink and have been playing around with it, not much I can do with my t-25 but it's cool. Well anyway I had this problem where I would log a run and it would be perfect up to 4.5k and then my car would start stuttering and I would get like 12 counts of knock. Well I reset all the fuel sliders to zero and pulled a run and I still had the stuttering at 4.5k but 0 knock this time and timing is right where it should be. I have a 96awd with basic bolt ons, 14psi. Its really annoying and I need some help figuring it out. The only ideas I have is maybe I need to add a little fuel at 4.5k since when I put the sliders to zero it got rid of the knock. Let me know what you think.

Your original post asked for ideas, NOT if it was the plugs, Thank you.
Your log shows low timing, try running higher octane or lowering the boost for now.

 

[bigdogg2834]

Yeah my original post said I wanted ideas but did you see the one right below it that I posted before you ever posted that said could it be the plugs. And yeah you offered advice but you just couldn't give advice without making a smart ass comment first right. Thats what I didn't care for.

 

[swarm]

I have the right to be a smart ass. Freedom of speech.
And, you asked for it. No search. Need me to search for you? There are literally hundreds of posts on similar problems.

 

[bigdogg2834]

I have the right to be a smart ass. Freedom of Speech.

OK you win. You made me laugh. Thats got to be the quote of the year

 

[oldman]

Chill out guys, just change the plugs and wires and post back. If that doesn't solve the problem then it would be time to do more testing. BTW does this happen only at wot? Is it also boost related or just rpm?

 

[Grn95GST]

According to your 02's you are running pig rich. Also a log to redline or near it would be more helpful. I would definitely get some new plugs and log your car again and go from there. Good luck.

 

[lein90tsi]

my car is acting wierd it is a 90 talon tsi awd,when my car is warmed up (like 5 minutes of driving)if i rev it to 5000 rpm the engine seems like it runs on 3 cylinders and it wont go away untill i let it idle for about 30 seconds then it will slowly start to run normally.it doesnt matter if its WOT or not it just happens when ever it goes exactly past 5k .the wierd thing is it wont do it when the engine is still cold it only does it after its been driven like 5 or 10 mins and fully warmed up or if its still hot .i checked the spark and all fire normally i put a new coil pack and icm , i cant seem to find the problem.the car runs good when cold or if i keep the revs under 5k . it holds boost fine i am thinking it may be the ecu but would that make the car do that?

 

[andymoraitis]

I know you mentioned checking spark for firing, but have you taken a look at your plugs and plug gap? It's a simple thing, but a gap that's too wide will allow the spark to be blown out. I'm not sure if this is the case, but it's worth checking into. While you're at it, have you run a boost leak test and also replaced your fuel filter? As you also indicated, it could be the ECU, so a look for any leaking caps would clue you in as well.

Try those and let us know if that helps,

Andy

 

[lein90tsi]

I know you mentioned checking spark for firing, but have you taken a look at your plugs and plug gap? It's a simple thing, but a gap that's too wide will allow the spark to be blown out. I'm not sure if this is the case, but it's worth checking into. While you're at it, have you run a boost leak test and also replaced your fuel filter? As you also indicated, it could be the ECU, so a look for any leaking caps would clue you in as well.

Try those and let us know if that helps,

Andy

yes i just bought new plugs and gaped them to spec i dont think its a boost leak because it wont do it when cold and a leak wont just happen to fix itself .fuel filter is new.i did check the ecu the caps are not leaking but it did smell a little fishy inside there.but again why does it do it only when warmed.the car runs great and holds boost fine (right now its at 12 psi) untill exactly at 5000 rpm thats when its misfires and runs like its on three cylinders for about 30 seconds i have to let it idle then it will start to run good again.in the morning for the first 5 to 10 minutes it will run great and pull hard all the way to redline.then when its fully warmed it starts to do it again. when i first bought it it never did that untill about 3 weeks ago.

 

[hellotbone]

I am having the EXACT same problem with my car with the 6 bolt swap the only way I cured it part time was to drop fuel pressure to 36 psi run br6es plugs in it and lean it out and it doesn't do it but with a .90 O2 its way lean. Had dsmjim over last night we dicked around with it and can't fix it so he pointed me here this morning. I have another ECU for my 2G I am going to try and swap into my car ASAP to give it a try and will let you guys know. I had a small problem with my positive battery post hitting my hood and sparking and never really noticed it till Jim said something so it could have damaged my ecu maybe.

 

[IWANTSPEED90DSM]

Hmmm, seems I have the same problem. Im also in Aurora. Maybe it's this goddamn air.

 

[hellotbone]

Hahah yeah the TO smog is on its way up. Tonight I will throw the other ECU in and a new set of plugs and go do some beating umm I mean testing.

 

[IWANTSPEED90DSM]

heh, Im going to CT today to get new plugs and wires. (SOooo Much easier to change on the DSM than my mustang)

If that doesn't work.... I'll try a new(er) coilpack.

As for why my car doesn't build boost fast, I suspect it's my 2G ported exhaust manifold is cracked

 

[hellotbone]

Good luck finding BPR7ES plugs around here or 6's I have been to aurora,newmarket,pickering,ajax,and uxbridge oh and stouffville. Gonna try B&B dixon today and see.

 

[IWANTSPEED90DSM]

what the heck are BPR7ES? Cant I just get a copper plug from NAPA or something?

Ignorant Mustang owners eh?

 

[BoBbOrAzE]

Alright, well i alwayyys search for my problems, but in this case its hard to determine the specifics of mine from all the threads. I just finished installing my uicp and ssqv and also recently my blow thru maf and translator setup. Now after all this installed i finally pushed her into the high rpms. It pulls beautiful and then at almost exactly 5k it suddenly stops and there is a reaaal loud noise sounding like the turbo is just spinning super hard without me actually going anywhere and all the pull is now gone. (and its not like an airy spooling type of noise)
That is the situation and i am trying to gather what it could be.

-I had just done a boost leak test and i am perfectly fine except for a slight leak at my throttle body which i will fix. maybe that is it?

-I am soon hooking up my logger and i could be running extremely rich or extremely lean at high rpms??

-Since i am hitting 16 psi now without a mbc maybe im maxing out my injectors or something else with psi that high??

-Is that the feeling of fuel cut??

-Maybe my plugs are destroyed because of the lean or rich conditions?

(i will be hooking up the logger and fixing plugs and leaks soon just in case)

Im really not sure what it could be or if its just a simple problem so if anyone has any idea what this exactly sounds like pleeeaase feel free to lend me your knowledge!

some other threads i found to be helpful and similar

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150026&highlight=power+loss

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41217&highlight=power+loss


- this is also very interesting read the last post it sounds similar to my problem but i hope thats not it. http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120433&highlight=power+rpm

 

[2nd gen gst]

Might by your bov, mine had the same symptoms as you said, I thought it was a leak, but it was air leaking out of the BOV dump. I tighten the bov to harder and it was fixed. Then again I do have a greddy bov.

 

[BoBbOrAzE]

Well i have the new design ssqv with no adjust nut but I boost leak tested today and hit 20 psi, meanwhile the bov was perfectly fine and only a tiny whistle from the throttle body. (new gasket time)

 

[sonicnofadz]

Could also be an issue with the maf translator, you NEED to get a logger (if you don't already have one) and examine the signal thats coming from the translater. With a logger you would also be able to see if your timing is getting pulled due to knock. Trying to tune without a logger is pointless.

 

[4kinboost]

Quick question,,, Does your speedo work perfectly???

I have dsmlink and had the same problem,,, after a tps,plugs,wires,coil-pack,boost leak test and slamming a few things on the ground a few times , I decided to e-mail dsmlink directly. They e-mailed me back to check my speed sensor.

It just so happened that my speed sensor broke the same day that my buddies from nycclubdsm found 3 bost leaks.

To make a long story short the dsmlink activates it's own rev limiter when it thinks the car is not moving forward(wheather you have the limiter activated or not)... I dropped a new sensor in and BAM!!! Problem fixed.

Hope his helps,,,

Ps.
You can't get pissed for guys on the board that ripp you for not searching,,, I solved a bunch of sh%^& on my car b4 ever posting questions--- Search is your friend.

 

[BoBbOrAzE]

excelllent, yes i have a palm pilot logger that i will be hooking up later today. Im not really trying to tune it just did that on its own. Ill try to post the log later today since i have no idea how to really read them for whats good and bad.

 

[BoBbOrAzE]

well i tried installing palmnstein and obd gauge on my palm pilot and palm vx. palmnstein always gets this damn fatal exception error and obd gauge never goes past initalizing on both palms. I have not been able to find any other logging software anywhere online that will work.

I am still having the problem with the power loss and i pulled the plugs and it looked like i was running lean. I turned my translator 1 rich on idle mid and wot to see a change but nada. Does anyone know how to help me or how to get my datalogger working??

 

[mgleason007]

What version of Palm OS are you running?

Check here too: http://mmcdlogger.sourceforge.net/

 

[BoBbOrAzE]

i can not use mmcd its only for 1gs but i also recently found out that it needs to be version 3.5 and above and its a simple upgrade! so im going to do that tonight and hopefully have some logs by tomorrow

 

[mgleason007]

i can not use mmcd its only for 1gs but i also recently found out that it needs to be version 3.5 and above and its a simple upgrade! so im going to do that tonight and hopefully have some logs by tomorrow

Sorry, I missed that, but yeah, you need to have Palm OS 3.5 or higher.