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The 5K stutter cutout misfire stumble breakup Thread [Merged 7-8]

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20+ Year Contributor
1,106
18
Jul 23, 2002
San Leandro, California
My project 92 Talon just wouldn't be nice to me.

I figured that my smoking problem was due to my turbo leaking oil, since upper IC pipe had whole bunch of oil in it.

Now more porblems arize....

1st: It wouldn't idle normally, instead it revs up to 2K and drops back to 1K every like 2 sec. if idle is adjusted to be lower then 1100 rpm

2nd: When rmp reach 5K under WOT, it hesitates violently. As soon as rpms drop a bit, it's fine again.

(The good thing I fix the unlock buttons, 'cause it had shaved handles and you couldn't get inside by any means except a trunk....:D)
 
I put a new fuel pump injectors and SAFC-2 in my car. And now I can't boost to get past 4-5k RPM"s... Only if i hold it out.. But a few times I pushed it past there and it boosted like a MOTHER!... Like my 16g pulled from like 5k to 7200 like crazy.. Better then b4 the problem. Like 35mph to 65 in seconds... It was crazy... What could my problem be. The car was also low on gas. and the gas gauge doesnt' work too well since install. I was driving it to the gas station and the CheckEngine light came on and started running like shit. Then I got pulled over the night w/CEL on... For Failure to Inspection, Driving w/No Registration, and Failure to produce document of Reg.... SO.. yeah.. $352 is the total. And the CEL went out when I turnded off when I started up to leave the parking lot I got pulled over in. So I dont know what the CEL was even for!

HELP PLEASE :confused:
 
I had done two 4th gear dyno runs and my car ran fine so I adjusted my afc a bit did a third run and at 5k rpm it cut out and I lost all power and black smoke galore. I don't have a logger so I know my afc isn't tuned for squat for my 680s but I had it atleast running fine for a week or two before the runs. When I messed with the afc I leaned it out 1% that was it. But now I put everything back to where I had it and tried all kinds of other settings but I can't get it to run right anymore.

It drives fine until about 4k when I hit about 10psi then it falls on its face and at 5k it cuts out. Not a hard fuel cut blockage but like it is too rich like when I first put in the injectors.

Also the dyno guy said he could tell I was getting a lot of blow by from the turbo by the charts. I'm not exactly sure what that means fully.

And I only hit 236/266 hp/tq at about 4k and then it drops off all the way to redline.

I know I need to get it tuned better, but I am curious if I may have a motor issue or just a leak from my charge pipes or my wastegate like the tech was telling me about the blow by.

The runs were at 20psi with a ported evo III turbo and o2 housing and big greddy fmic and everything else.
 
my car is sputtering from 5k and up in 2nd gear and up... wondering what could cause this.. i've replaced the spark plugs and wires already... don't think i have any boost leaks.. i clean out the smic and re-attached all the ic pipes.. clamped them down nice and tight... only mods i have are a turbo back and air filter, also removed the bcs restrictor... any help is appreciated ( forgot to add this only happens at WOT.. if i'm not at WOT it accelerate all the way to redline no problems)
 
For future reference, that's (incorrectly) known as spark plug blow-out, it's actually the density of the air/fuel charge creating too much resistance between the plug electrodes, preventing a strong, hot arc. It causes a nsaty misfire at higher RPM at WOT. Usually it's caused by excessive plug gap, but obviously bad plugs or wires can do it. Really it's just the limits of the stock ignition, you have to find a plug/wire combination to allow the largest plug gap without misfiring. NGK coppers and MSD wires seem to do the trick very nicely :thumb:
 
^ ^ ^ For those who missed that part of trivia in science class, unlike most other materials, the electrical resistance of our air goes up when compressed, which is part of why turbo cars can lose spark under load.
 
ok... sometimes i still have the problem.. but sometimes i dont.. can it be the cheap wires that i got?? i got some belden 7mm spark plug wires that are about 2 months old...
 
It can be a few other things, old and faulty coils can do it, as can bad wires. If your coils and wires are in good shape, check your plug gap. If you left the plugs at 0.044", that could very well be the culprit.
 
ur "power transistor" seems to be goin bad. once its bad enough and it only fire cylinders #1 & #4 and #2 & #3 will be dead. i had same problem. everyone and their moms seem to be having this prob. seems very common now.
 
Couldnt find anything on a search. Im obviously new to dsm's. Im guessing the map is seeing to much boost and throwing a fuel cut at 5k. Under load at 5k rpm it hits a rev limiter, off load it revs to 7k. The car itself is a 92 awd tsi, 100% stock. No cel's, and the stock boost gauge obviously so I dont exactly know how much boost its running. I guess my question would really be is the stock fuel cut at 5k, or is that when my ecu is seeing to much boost? Or is it something else alltogether. Thanks in advance
 
it may also be a boost leak that only presents it self in boost

As new dsmer you should get use to doing boost leak tests hehe
 
going with boost leak. Do you hear any loud hissing sounds (other than your turbo). If you are at stock boost, which i am assuming since your car is bone stock, you should have plenty of fuel to prevent fuel cut. Tunning assistants are always a good first mod.
 
I hear the turbo spool for sure, since its stock I figured I would not be able to. Maybe what I hear is indeed a leak. I also played around with it this morning, you can go past 5 with a 1/2 throttle low boost but as soon as you floor it and it spools its all over. I thought maybe the wastegate spring was worn out since the car has 160k on it. Thanks for the help, on to checking for boost leaks now.
 
a good spring has an infinate life and basically cannot wear out.... (according to my bro, who has a masters in mechanical and auronautical engineering and is current works with NASA), so I doubt the spring is worn out. check all your clamps, intake to manifold.
 
I can definately hear a leak, sounds like it is coming from the compressor housing. The problem is thats its on the block side so I cant feel it only hear it. The exasut manny has a bunch of cracks as well. :thumbdown All the hoses and IC seem to be ok, I also noticed that there was some air coming out of the tube for the bov. I still think it has to much boost though, gotta get a guage.
 
Lucky for you, manifolds are really cheap. I have heard of using jb weld to fix the cracks, but I recomend replacing it. If your funds allow you, you can always get a metal upper intercooler pipe. It is hard to overboost the 4g63 on a 100% stock setup. Getting a gauge is the right choice. Next get a data logger. If you are running a higher PSI, you can read the parameters of the engine to make sure everything is running smoothly. If you have a problem the logger will let you know.

good manifold pace
www.slowboyracing.com

Keep your eye on this thread, he is having very similar problems...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150026
 
someone help me out I know this has been discussed several times

ok its not a boost leak and I have new 7es gapped at 28 and wires i know that others experience this problem while driving but my problem happens when i have it in neutral and rev it to 5k and it sputters. so whats wrong with my car? im already bidding on a coil pack off ebay see if that works
 
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