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The 5K stutter cutout misfire stumble breakup Thread [Merged 7-8]

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Newlogics

20+ Year Contributor
1,106
18
Jul 23, 2002
San Leandro, California
My project 92 Talon just wouldn't be nice to me.

I figured that my smoking problem was due to my turbo leaking oil, since upper IC pipe had whole bunch of oil in it.

Now more porblems arize....

1st: It wouldn't idle normally, instead it revs up to 2K and drops back to 1K every like 2 sec. if idle is adjusted to be lower then 1100 rpm

2nd: When rmp reach 5K under WOT, it hesitates violently. As soon as rpms drop a bit, it's fine again.

(The good thing I fix the unlock buttons, 'cause it had shaved handles and you couldn't get inside by any means except a trunk....:D)
 
the wires are magnacores I had the problem before I put them in thinking that they could help, they didnt. the wires are a two years old but have only been run for a year, the car sat for a long time in the shed. the plugs are new I went with the b8es with out the resistors and it seemed to help a little bit. I might try the b9es because I have a set. I am running 9:1 compression with a 2.4l hybrid.
 
Ok you said you had the problem and replaced the wires and it was still there correct? if it got worse with the wires then it is most likely(Im 99.99999% sure) the coil pack. I had somewhat of the same problem bogged on boost I tested the primary side of the coil pack and read twice the resistance than it should be(1.7ohms). the problem got a little worse when I put my accel wires on, being as though they have ALOT less resistance per foot.
Andrew
 
Ok to test it on the car, first disconnect the neg battery terminal, then disconnect the plug to the coil to test the primary coil you need to test the resistance between terminals 3 and 2 and then 3 and 1 on the connector (terminals are as follows: 12 on top and the third terminal is the only bottom one) resistance should be.7-.86 ohms. If out of spec replace the coil pack, if not test the secondary(might as well since its really easy) check resistance btwn 1 and 4 coils and 2 and 3 coils, remove the wires from the coil pack, and looking at the coil pack from left to right its 1,4,2,3 I think(or you can just look on the pack its written on the bottom). The resistance should be 11.3-15.3 kilo-ohms if out of spec replace the coil pack.

All in all it takes about 5 mins to do, if I were you Id do that before replacing any parts. keep us informed with the results.
Andrew
 
Try switching back to the 7's, the 8's are probably too cold for your set-up. It's likely bogging because the plugs are unable to properly burn the fuel making you run rich.
 
well, I checked the coils they all checked out ok, I put on new wires and still the same problem. I tried the hew wires with teh b83s and the b7es nothing changed. my next item on teh list is the ignitor. I moved it becasue of the sheet metal in take, but its mounted directly to the manifold so it has a good ground, I just wonder if it went bad some how. not sure how they go bad but something is wrong. I logged a few pulls and none of them showed any thing except running really rich when it misses.
 
I have this same problem. Replaced plugs, wires, and coil. I have no boost leaks. I have found that if I set the correction on my AFC to -3 at and above the 5000 rpm mark it helps a little and will get to about 6 k before it starts mising when before it would start mising at about 45-5. I am totaly stumped here. I rebuilt my entire motor and it STILL does it. :mad:
 
This might help....

my alternater was overloading my battery...well, i drove it anyway and then then the car completely died on the highway along with all the electrical. I jump started it and it was fine except that it stumpled right at 4k.

Might have something to do with the ecu??...or the caps maybe.
 
I am not sure how I would check my ecu, I have a dsm link and no other way to run 950 cc injectors. this was part of the reason I did the rebuld on my moter as well. it has 210 miles on it so I can run it really hard but I cant even go to wot with out it missing on me.
 
Yeh. Just replaced the alternator about a week ago actually. The regualtor went out and it was overcharging. But it was missing before I replaced it...and it still does. I think my next move is going to be the fuel filter. I have never replaced it since I have owned the car and I do not know when or if the last owner replaced it at all.
 
I just replaced my fuel filter and lines up front with an earls filter and braded an line. so I elimenated that source of problem. I think that I am going to take the car down to ams and see if they have any ideas
 
I was driving one day, and I just wanted to gun it real quick so I went to a stop and gunned it on 1st gear and it was kinda laggy getting up to boost then it kinda kicked in then right when it hit 4000 rpms it just kept going having a hard time to redline and I didnt feel any kick from there. What is the problem? Can my turbo be gone? HG problem? Pls help.... THX :cry: :talon: :cry:
 
RB this is the CLASSIC damaged ECU scenario - Caps &/or the little Injector Firing Solenoids on the ECU board are wounded & failing - Very common - Same thing happened to my ECU when Alt VR failed to high voltage (the classic P/S Fluid leak took the VR out...)

RoasT BeeF said:
Yeh. Just replaced the alternator about a week ago actually. The regualtor went out and it was overcharging. But it was missing before I replaced it...and it still does.
 
I just installed my downpipe today along with some 550's.. seems to run good, I used RRE's sample AFC settings for 17 psi, despite not having a fmic.. This, because i have yet to be able to tune the beast.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newafcsetting.htm


1. There's some major dying off happening at about 5k in every gear, its as though the car is going to take off from the ground and then all of a sudden falls on its face, my thought was that it was a vaccum leak but iv checked everywhere and the car was running fine before i put the dp and injectors in, then possibly its an exhaust leak? Could be likely, seeing as the gasket between the dp and o2 housing was shit when i put it back on, but im not sure that would cause this affect? would it? The only other thing i could think it would be is the computer detecting way to much knock and just cutting fuel or somthing? That damn datalogger is next on the freaking list.
2. I ran a line from the wastegate directly to the turbo to maintain minimum boost levels while the car is untuned and without an upgrade i/c... well somehow I'm running 16 psi in 4th now. I was running only 12 earlier but it would spike too 15. Now it goes straight to 16 and drops steadily until it starts f'ing up, maybe thats the stock boost level on the super16, i have no clue.. ill have to look into that.

As far as mods go: super16g, 255 walbro, 550's, safc, and the standard supporting mods, i dont have an FPR

Anyways, any thoughts on whats up with the car just falling on its face would be much appreciated, I hope to be getting a datalogger soon, but it could be a while.
 
Ok, i put the stock injectors back in and the car is running fine, I turned the AFC up on hi throttle for a while thinking that car wasnt getting enough fuel, but then it started igniting.. I didnt think the stock 450's could flow enough fuel to make this beast run rich at 7 grand... remember i have no datalogger, and im running 16psi
 
i have a 96 eclipse N/A with 3000 in mods to the car. when i rev the car it makes a wisssssing noise all the way up to 5k and the wont go higher and boggs the motor. check engine light is not on, i have checked for vacuum leaks and put new gaskets on the tb and intake manifold and that did not help. I also took the head to the local machine shop and it had two bent valves in the head and i got that fixed and put it back on and it still did rev. can any one help me please.................???? is it fuel cut off what is fuel cut off anyway??? :dsm:
 
it could be a clogged cat,only way to check without pulling it off is to go out at night, let it run for a bit, then rev it up till it bogs, and look under the car at the cat, and if its clogged it will glow.
 
it did do the same thing when i had a turbo o2 sensor in it and then i put the n/a sensor in it and it ran fine till now now it wont rev past 5k it did this also when i lost a head and broke a guide so i put a new head on it and it ran fine till now is it possible it is the sensor anmd maybe sometimes it is working and sometime it isnt???
 
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