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The 5K stutter cutout misfire stumble breakup Thread [Merged 7-8]

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20+ Year Contributor
1,106
18
Jul 23, 2002
San Leandro, California
My project 92 Talon just wouldn't be nice to me.

I figured that my smoking problem was due to my turbo leaking oil, since upper IC pipe had whole bunch of oil in it.

Now more porblems arize....

1st: It wouldn't idle normally, instead it revs up to 2K and drops back to 1K every like 2 sec. if idle is adjusted to be lower then 1100 rpm

2nd: When rmp reach 5K under WOT, it hesitates violently. As soon as rpms drop a bit, it's fine again.

(The good thing I fix the unlock buttons, 'cause it had shaved handles and you couldn't get inside by any means except a trunk....:D)
 
Have you added anything recently, like a fuel pump, or did something with your air intake, or upgraded your turbo? Did this problem just start out of the blue?
 
no it just started out of the blue and I was diagnosing the problem by seeing if it only happens while I drive (transmission or boost leak) or sitting still (fuel,electrical) am I makeing any sense? I know that knowing the problem doesnt only occur while driving that it narrows down the possibillities.
 
DO NOT just start buying parts and hoping they will fix it. You could get lucky, but chances are you won't. Do you have access to a DMM or Ohmmeter? If so, I can tell you how to check if your coil packs are good.

Also, why are u free reving your car? That's bad for it, very bad.
 
how is it bad?

im not buying parts until I know for sure what the problem is thats why im asking for help

ya I have an ohmmeter I also have a haynes manual but I really cant understand how to check the coil pack how do you do it?
 
RairAir said:
how is it bad?
Because there is no load on your engine.

RairAir said:
im not buying parts until I know for sure what the problem is thats why im asking for help

ya I have an ohmmeter I also have a haynes manual but I really cant understand how to check the coil pack how do you do it?
You have to measure the resistance in the primary and seconday coil. I don't know the exact specs for a DSM, but primary should be close to 0 and secondary should be high (I'm pretty sure that's right, might be backwards tho). Also measure for short to ground. Should be infinity.
 
yeah i been having the same problem.At idle car runs fine driving fine.

acouple times awhile back i had problems with the car running on 1/4 and no spark to 2/3,then all of a sudden it will got away.Havent had the problem in awhile,but now it runs drives fine,half petal under boost its fine,if i give it full throttle even under 10psi nothing,it just sputters all the way to redline.It definatly seems like 2 cylinders arnt firing,the only ones i can think it would be is 2/3.Would this be it,the power transistor that is
 
My friends 91 Talon Tsi FWD is acting funny. If you are driving or just reving at a stand still the engine will sputter out if it gets near 5,000 rpms dosent matter how or what you do its like the computer is programmed to have a 5k revlimiter. His mods are an S-AFCII 650s FMIC small 16g turbo. We have replaced the CAS the Throttle body sparkplugs , computer, coil pack, We have checked for boost leaks none were found. When you drive it , it has nice power up untill 5k when it dies. I consider myself pretty knowlegable about DSMs and im stumped. Any help or ideas would be appreciated
Drew
 
Uh... I doubt this is the case... but it might help. Right after I bought my 90 GSX (not in profile) I noticed the same thing. On the drive home I basically had to shift at around 5000 rpms or it would stutter alot. When I got it home I did an engine flush (Gunk) and added 1 quart of Lucas and 4 quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil and it ran great.

I also found out later that the compression is low on the car, but I can still rev past 5000rpms.

* I would not recommend using Gunk. They now have a disclaimer on their bottle that states it is not to be used in turbocharged vehicles.

-Turblown
 
We checked the compression and it was like 152 all across the board with a cold motor (not warmed up)
Its not really studdering its just like when it gets right up to 5k it kills the motor.
Im thinkin either fuel is cuttin or spark is, but I have no idea how.
 
could be just simply weak plugs and or wires, could be just way to lean or rich up top. may also be timing belt skipped to be a couple teeth off, ive seen that a few times. checks those
 
when i floor the car, at 5000 rpm it starts to make a noise and just stutters and stalls and does not go past 5000 rpm. i am unsure of what the problem is. any help would be appreciated. and this only happens when i floor the car. its a 99 Gst auto.
 
strongde66 said:
when i floor the car, at 5000 rpm it starts to make a noise and just stutters and stalls and does not go past 5000 rpm. i am unsure of what the problem is. any help would be appreciated. and this only happens when i floor the car. its a 99 Gst auto.

Perform a real boost leak test.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

Well that's if you have a turbo. Please complete your profile so we can help you better. ;)
 
sorry bout that, the car isnt mine but a friends. its a 99 GST automatic. rebuilt trans and engine, hes wanting to sell the car but he wont sell it until he fixes this problem. and he says that when he doesnt floor it, there is no problem, i will ask him if he did a boost leak test.
 
he said he did the test and there was no problem there, but he said he heard a dripping like noise coming from the engine bay.
 
I have notice stange random hesitation/sputtering when boosting between 4-5K RPM's.. Kinda feels like light fuel cutting, then it goes away after 5.2K or so.

I'm still on T-25 and currently and back on BCS for winter purposes

My mods are:

3" cat back
1g BOV
NKG plus
Accel wires
Ebay-injen intake (recirculated)
K&N full cone

Any ideas what can cause this??

halik
 
You have a few things to look into, but most of them are fairly minor. Anything that relates to bucking (not fuel cut) or stuttering acceleration can be tracked down to a few basic issues.

1. Test for boost leaks
2. Make sure plugs are fresh and that the gap is 0.028
3. Replace plug wires if more than 12 months old (sometimes they fail before this).
4. Replace fuel filter

In a nutshell, check for proper fuel delivery, spark and no boost leaks.

Good luck and I hope that helps.

Andy
 
thanks for the help. because i have been doing the same thing but i came to the conclusion of it being a boost leak.

hey is your aftermarket boost guage going from 9psi to around 11psi back and fourth rapidly?
 
I just got dsmlink and have been playing around with it, not much I can do with my t-25 but it's cool. Well anyway I had this problem where I would log a run and it would be perfect up to 4.5k and then my car would start stuttering and I would get like 12 counts of knock. Well I reset all the fuel sliders to zero and pulled a run and I still had the stuttering at 4.5k but 0 knock this time and timing is right where it should be. I have a 96awd with basic bolt ons, 14psi. Its really annoying and I need some help figuring it out. The only ideas I have is maybe I need to add a little fuel at 4.5k since when I put the sliders to zero it got rid of the knock. Let me know what you think.
 
I went out and tried adding more fuel but it still does it. Do you think it could possibly be my spark plugs? They are about 10 months old. What do you think.
 
You spend over $800 on DSMlink ($600 for dsmlink+~$200 for a eprom ecu) and you won't just go out and spend $20 for new plugs and wires to find out yourself? wtf?

go get new plugs/wires, boostleak check, check for shaft play, and check fuel pressure. what are your o2 readings at? post the log.
 
First of all if you cant post something constructive then don't bother posting at all. I'm at work right now (ever heard of it) and I have a pretty busy schedule and haven't had time seeing as the problem just started today. I simply asked if that could be the problem. I'm getting sick and tired of all the high and mighty people that think they know it all treating me like i'm some newbie that doesn't know anything and is asking dumb questions. I asked a legitimate question and everything you named I have already checked over the weekend before this problem started. I was planning on changing the plugs after work but wanted to get an idea of something else if that doesn't work.

RPM TIMING KNOCK 02

2004 5 0 .96
2512 5 0 .98
3061 7 0 1.00
3528 7 0 1.02
4032 9 0 1.04
4540 9 1.5 1.02
4973 11 1 1.00

I would have logged a longer run but it started to break up around 4500-5000 and I didn't want to push it.
 
I did post something constructive. You didn't. You said nothing about checking for boost leaks, plugs/wires, shaft play, or fuel pressure. So don't get all ass-hurt with me. If you checked all those things, why didn't you replace the plugs/wires? Change the plugs after work, and also the wires if they are old.

I'm done here.
 
When I said you didn't post something constructive I meant that you didn't even answer the question that I asked which was is it possible that the plugs would cause this. You just gave me a smart ass reply (check rule two in the Before you Reply rules). I don't know about you but when my car isn't running right it bugs me and I keep thinking about it and I was thinking about it while I was here at work and just thought I would post something to see if I could get some ideas so I wouldn't have to keep posting and waiting for responses if the plugs weren't the problem. I checked boost leaks and all the other stuff you mentioned over the weekend, why do you think I was just asking about the plugs? And like I said, if you can't answer the direct question that I asked then stay the F out of my post because I'm sure there are others that will give good input. And you say dont get all ass-hurt with you? Who the F are you? I'm not going to sit here and talk trash to you over an internet forum because thats ###. I see this crap go on all the time and I just laugh because theres probably 1 or 2 people on this board that might talk trash to me to my face and you aren't one of them.
 
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