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talon @t 14psi vs evo @t 18

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eclipse98gs-t

15+ Year Contributor
125
1
Jun 1, 2004
LIma, South America
hello dsm tuners.
my car is a Talon 1990 AWD, my mods are:
MAFT 2.03 v
CUSTOM FMIC AND PIPES
T3/T4 50 TRIM (2.121 IND. AND 3.000 EXD) AR 0.63 HOT AND 0.60 COLD
TIAL 38MM EXTERNAL WASTEGATE
FULL 3" EXHAUST O2 ELIMINATOR
650CC INJECTORS
ROSS 8.5 PISTONS
EAGLE CONECTING RODS H-BEAM
RACE FP CAMS
EXEDY STAGE 2 CLUTCH, STOCK LIGHTENED FLYWHEEL
STOCK LIGHTENED CRANK
ETC
Well, the history is i raced 1/4 mile vs my friend`s evo V, at 18 psi and SafcII, intake and exhaust.
My car at 14 psi (only)
We ran twice, and both races were tie.
Now I want to increase boost to 18 , maybe 20 (all on pump gas)
What do you think fellows, can my setup hold that boost?
Is it safe?
I wanna win next time, but i dont want to blow my motor.
Please give some advice.
Thanks
DSMRULES!!! :thumb:
 
A tie? erm.. ok


Anyway. You have fuel, a forged motor, and a FMIC Im guessing youll be fine
 
I think a tie was not a bad result, because that EVO V born in 280HP and my car 195HP, plus i ran at 14 psi.
Canadian, i know i can run at 20 psi, just i wanted to hear it from an authorized voice.
I think FP CAMS gonna be more useful at that pressure, and i just look 50trim flow map and it looks like at 18+ psi that turbo will show me his real potential... what do you think?
Thanks for advice.
Again DSMRULES :rocks:
 
tie? you should have wrecked him. A stock evo with an AFC is not that fast... cmon man. Fully built motor + cams + 50trim @ 1bar is a 12second setup here @ altitude...
 
sweck said:
tie? you should have wrecked him. A stock evo with an AFC is not that fast... cmon man. Fully built motor + cams + 50trim @ 1bar is a 12second setup here @ altitude...

I dont think same...
Evo V + AFC + Full exhaust + K&N filter, maybe could be at 300HP, maybe a little more.
My motor was built to work at 30psi (race gas), thats my goal. At that level, i gonna wreck him, i promise you.
My project includes NX NOS (already buy but not installed yet) a SAFCII (for proper tunnig) (already buy but not installed yet) and a bigger turbo. (thinkin about which one...)
This weekend i gonna crank it up to 20 psi... i will tell you next week how things happened.
Oh, i forgot to tell, that EVO made 12s on the nationals in my country... :sneaky:
Any comments would be apreciated
DSMRULES :D
 
Forget the lame bench racing for a second.
18psi is street safe, 20psi and I'd only be worried about the headgasket.
( I wouldn't really be worried about it unless I drove @ 20psi daily)

It's all about the tune, knock, etc.
You figure out if it's safe or not by what your car tells you.
Honestly the SAFCII isn't going to tell you much unless you're logging...
:thumb:

I didn't notice a FPR or high flow fuel pump
 
just_passed_you said:
Forget the lame bench racing for a second.
18psi is street safe, 20psi and I'd only be worried about the headgasket.
( I wouldn't really be worried about it unless I drove @ 20psi daily)

I didn't notice a FPR or high flow fuel pump

Hello, head gastek is Cometic, in theory in think it will hold that pressure...
What dou you think?
I forgot to mention Fuel Pump is a Walbro 255 (not high pressure)
I dont have a FPR, is this necesary?
Thanks for your commentsand advice
It helps me a lot
:thumb: :talon:
 
This thread is on the verge of bench racing.

Anyway, do you have APR head studs to go with the headgasket?

20 PSI should be fine regarless if tuned right. I agree, and SAFC is not going to show you what you need as far as monitoring.
 
ECLIPSE4x4 said:
This thread is on the verge of bench racing.

Anyway, do you have APR head studs to go with the headgasket?

20 PSI should be fine regarless if tuned right. I agree, and SAFC is not going to show you what you need as far as monitoring.

Ok, i think this discussion is more technical... sorry if looks like other way
Personally i think apr studs are not necesary. My mechanic told me stock studs will be fine... time will solve this disagreement.
I know i must get some logger, thanks for advice Eclipse4X4
What do you think about to get a FPR? Is necessary for my setup? In case yes, which brand you recomend?
Thanks :thumb:
 
Just for info purposes, I run 22-23 psi on pump gas, fmic, stock fresh bottom end with arp rod bolts, head studs, cometic hg, and 60-1. You can look in my profile for my fuel mods which are close to yours but you might eventually want to get afpr. Even the lp 255 will over run the stock regulator. IMHO, you should be fine at 20psi with proper tuning and 91 octane pump gas.
 
eclipse98gs-t said:
Personally i think apr studs are not necesary. My mechanic told me stock studs will be fine... time will solve this disagreement.

If you believe in your mechanic so much, why didn't you ask him how much boost you should run instead of asking us here? You asked for opionions so we give them. How many times has your head been off and torqued down? Do you think the stock head bolts haven't stretched? I don't know about you, but ARP is the way to go. I don't know of too many people on this board who will tell you that ARP's are overkill. Having the peace of mind knowing you will not float the head is well worth it. Simply because if venture into running more boost you know you will not float the head.


What do you think about to get a FPR? Is necessary for my setup? In case yes, which brand you recomend?

I am partial to the aeromotive AFPR myself.
 
My comment wasnt intended to be 'bench racing.' Just stating what i've seen up here in denver. I thought he said evo viii as well, misread it, as there arent too many evo v's here in the US.
 
sweck said:
My comment wasnt intended to be 'bench racing.' Just stating what i've seen up here in denver. I thought he said evo viii as well, misread it, as there arent too many evo v's here in the US.

Exactly!!! Sweck is right.
DSMKevan, you are wrong...
This is not an EVO 8, its an EVO 5.
American EVO 8 sucks, everybody knows its the slower evo ever...
JDM EVO 5 is really fast, some people says its just has 320HP :shhh:
About to learn to drive, maybe is correct, i got this car for about 5 months, before that i got two GS-T, 95 and 98, but i sold that ones because i always wish to have an AWD.
Eclipse4x4, you are right... im thinking and it doesnt have sense... to have a fully built motor and no ARP studs, is a stupid thing. I dont want to see my head to float so i gonna get ARP studs, i saw them at $90 on SBR i think.
Thanks for comments
:thumb:
 
I say go for 20psi, just make sure you have something like a logger to watch everything with. I hope you have something to tune with other than the MAFT or else I'd keep it at 14psi until you get a more "fine tuning" piece of equipment like an safc.
 
why are you people only reccomending 20psi? if he has a built motor why wouldnt he safely run 25psi, which is good for a 50 trim. the only thing i could think of that would stop him from running that is the pump gas factor. 19-20psi is good for a 50 trim on pump with a stock 7 bolt with stock hg and studs. i would imagine u could pump a little more boost with a fully built 6 bolt.

...and let me tell you guys, 50 trims dont open up until 17psi or so, cuz i had my 50 trim at 15psi and it was comperable to my stupid little t25 maxed out at 15.
 
never2muchBoost said:
why are you people only reccomending 20psi? if he has a built motor why wouldnt he safely run 25psi, which is good for a 50 trim. the only thing i could think of that would stop him from running that is the pump gas factor. 19-20psi is good for a 50 trim on pump with a stock 7 bolt with stock hg and studs. i would imagine u could pump a little more boost with a fully built 6 bolt.


Knock is knock no matter whether it is on a built motor or not. The only difference is that the pistons and rods can handle a little more. Does that mean it is godd for it?? NO, does that mean because he has a built 6 bolt that the knock is not going to pull timing?? NO.
Plus we don't know what octane HIS pump gas is in S.A.
 
ECLIPSE4x4 said:
Plus we don't know what octane HIS pump gas is in S.A.

We have 97 octane, but our gas are not good quality, so we can say its 92 or 93.
Question: With race FP Cams, how much vacuum are you running?
Mine was marking 14 hg, now 11, i think is boost leak, what do you think guys?
:thumb:
 
I dont have experience with those cams but 11 in. sounds pretty low especially if you had more previously. and with tuning you can definitly run low 20 psi, I would just be a little on the worried side with those stretched out stock head bolts. I would stick 20 psi tops until you get those done then boost like theres no tomarrow!! :thumb:
 
Just as a side note, the EVO V we're talking about here is no stock EVO V. It has an upgraded FMIC, Boost Controller, Built/ported head(as it used to be a rally race car before) and some electronics/ECU mods that the owner won't talk about. Besides it is running 19PSI boost and places low 12's on the 1/4 mile. I'm sure that cranking up the boost on that Talon will make it show it's fangs the next time they race!!!
:thumb:
 
turn up the boost for sure. I am running 19-20 psi on pump gas, daily driver and it has 255,000km on it. bone stock internals. And a 14b.

Also, what altitude is Lima? If its high up in the Andes, 11" might not be too bad really.
 
Bohrn said:
turn up the boost for sure. I am running 19-20 psi on pump gas, daily driver and it has 255,000km on it. bone stock internals. And a 14b.

Also, what altitude is Lima? If its high up in the Andes, 11" might not be too bad really.


Lima is on coast, not altitude in this city.
Today i received my turboxs boost controller, at night i gonna make some tests.
Im gettin 5 race gas galons, 110 octane. Im planin to use it on Sunday, to race vs. two r33 skyline and evo i mentioned before.
Thanks for advise.
;)
 
Lima is at sea level so altitude should be no problem. Humidity is really high though, above 90% most of the time, but I don't know if that has any effect on the way the car runs.
What is true is that we have no way of logging our cars at the moment so we were planning on using the Scanmaster 3. That should be the correct choice right??
Anyway we'll let you know how the car behaves with more boost and race gas.
:thumb:
 
whens the last time anyone saw a tie at the track. you must of been highway racing or street racing.
 
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