take a look at this tune.

[dwdsm]

These are the two posts I've had on link for a few days. I'll throw it out here also.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is the fist time I was the lead guy on a DSM build and so far not so good. Car info.
2g
16g
RC 550's
255 fuel pump
6-bolt swap
black top cas
forged rods and pistons
built head stock cams
dsmlink v2.5
I bought this car to part out and my friend wanted to bring it back to life. I used what the previous owner said was his map and it looks correct for a 16g and 550's.
The car is breaking up bad and then when it builds boost it will smooth out but it acts like it is hauling a boat.
We checked the timing twice as well as the cas. It's spot on however the wierd thing is I always remember grounding timing when setting 5 btdc. If we did this it would loose the timing mark on the crank pulley totally. We are going to do a compression test and check for any shaft play this weekend.
Please look at his log settings and see if anything jumps out at you. As you can see we really can't even get on the car to see what happens.. it so sketchy.

Did a boost leak test and fixed all but the throttle body seal leak.
Compression test showed 160 across all cyclinders
Turbo spins freely and has no shaft play
Swapped mas with no change
I was then thinking ignition so we swapped one coil pack with the only good one I had and it got rid of the studder at low RPM. The car now will cruise fine but still seems sluggish. Here is the log and we would have taken it further but we need to get a boost controller or a new actuator before going any further.
The seals and coil pack is on order now.

 

[KeelesKustome]

Go to ecmlinks website and download the v3 so I can help you, I did notice you didn't even capture any mafcomp, maf, or mafraw.

your tps is to high of a voltage at idle.

why is your fuel in the negitive almost everywhere? You should adjust your global for reducing it across the board, for your injector size.
If your A/f ratio is correct it's showing your really lean and that would cause the loss of power you are mentioning.

0 out your fuel setup and put in the proper global and deadtime for your injectors. Download V3, take the car for a cruise, don't get on it, right click maf comp, and it'll ask if you want to use the template it thinks you need, do this over and over till it's dialed in.
for boost do this.
http://www.jeffgst.com/gmafcalibration1.html


I'm seeing you removed fuel yet added maf comp airsliders to the positive.... your canceling yourself out.. your giving and taking away. It seems you need to zero everything out to stock, and start over completely. Theirs to much wrong going on.

Heres what i need.
a good 5 minute idle log, at running temps.
A good 3rd gear pull to redline log.
And download the V3 app as it's free. here. http://www.ecmtuning.com/downloads.php it's at the very top.

give me the stats on your car. weight, tire size, rim size, engine internals, auto or 5 spd, turbo size etc...etc.... I'll do everything i can to get this going in the better direction for you.

 

[dwdsm]

Go to ecmlinks website and download the v3 so I can help you, I did notice you didn't even capture any mafcomp, maf, or mafraw.

your tps is to high of a voltage at idle.

why is your fuel in the negitive almost everywhere? You should adjust your global for reducing it across the board, for your injector size.
If your A/f ratio is correct it's showing your really lean and that would cause the loss of power you are mentioning.

0 out your fuel setup and put in the proper global and deadtime for your injectors. Download V3, take the car for a cruise, don't get on it, right click maf comp, and it'll ask if you want to use the template it thinks you need, do this over and over till it's dialed in.
for boost do this.
DSMlink MAS/MAF Calibration Page


I'm seeing you removed fuel yet added maf comp airsliders to the positive.... your canceling yourself out.. your giving and taking away. It seems you need to zero everything out to stock, and start over completely. Theirs to much wrong going on.

Heres what i need.
a good 5 minute idle log, at running temps.
A good 3rd gear pull to redline log.
And download the V3 app as it's free. here. ECMTuning, Inc. it's at the very top.

give me the stats on your car. weight, tire size, rim size, engine internals, auto or 5 spd, turbo size etc...etc.... I'll do everything i can to get this going in the better direction for you.

Like I said I threw in his old tune that came with the car. I already have v3 for my 2g so no problem there and i'll start from scratch and post the logs that you mentioned.
Thanks
Dave

 

[dwdsm]

We can't get to the point of dialing in the boost and Maf due to an ignition issue. The car loads up after some driving and then when you turn it off and back on again it's fine. I had the same issue and changed my coil pack to resolve it. We just put a new coil pack on this car and it solved the problem for a short time then it did it again! I guess we will check all grounds and then swap the resistor pack.
-Dave

 

[DJ23GSX]

When you ground the plug to set the timing you say you lose the mark completely. If you watch the crank pulley for a minute with the timing light does the mark appear to keep going around and around? I know on a 1g if the timing mark goes around and around then it means the crank pulley is separating and needs to be replaced.

 

[dwdsm]

When you ground the plug to set the timing you say you lose the mark completely. If you watch the crank pulley for a minute with the timing light does the mark appear to keep going around and around? I know on a 1g if the timing mark goes around and around then it means the crank pulley is separating and needs to be replaced.

It has a fluidamper crank pulley.

 

[dwdsm]

We fixed this issue a while ago and it was the base timing after all. I just cracked open the tech book.
ego<knowledge
Now the car runs wonderfully... Thanks, Dave