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take a look at my setup...let me know what i need

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gsx ftw

15+ Year Contributor
106
1
Jan 5, 2008
510/408, California
what i have now:

injen intake
3" catback
3" dp (uninstalled)
obx fmic (uninstalled)
j-pipe (uninstalled)
greddy uicp (uninstalled)
boost/oil pressure gauges
boost controller (uninstalled)

plan to get:
greddy flanged bov (what kind are there...well...besides greddy?)
650cc injectors
safcII
walbro 255 lph
mhi big16g (going to port out the wastegate, might as well do the manifold at the same time)
ported oem o2 housing...maybe aftermarket tubular?
fuelab fpr w/ return line kit

i'm going to have everything on the "to get" list within a month...the safcII probably later on today if everything works out.

so, i can't think of anything else. i'm trying to hit at least 250awhp on the "race" tune, maybe even more. then however much 10 or 12 psi will net me on my "street" tune. i'll be pushing 18-20 psi on the "race" tune.

i was thinking maybe an fpr w/ gauge, and probably porting out the stock manifold. maybe an air/fuel ratio gauge. i know i should get a wideband, but the basic air/fuel ratio gauge will at least tell me if i'm running too rich/lean, right?

oh, also, can i run the stock coolant/oil lines off my t25 to the 16g? if not, where can i get these? i'm already ordering new block to manifold, manifold to turbo, and turbo to o2 housing gaskets. should i get new hardware just in case?
 
after reviewing gsxrtalon's thread (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/291836-new-setup-gt35r.html), i've decided that i'll need the fpr w/ gauge and poly motor mount inserts. really sick build, btw.

also, when i get the money, i'm going to get an upgraded clutch and pressure plate(not sure if i want to go 2600, i'm trying to avoid crankwalk as much as possible). also possible is a rebuild. i read somewhere that john sheppard does full race prep rebuilds for 800. i'd like to find somebody local to nor*cal though...maybe fftec. last time they quoted me for a rebuild, i wasn't too happy with the price though...haha. i guess thats what you pay for quality.

i'm considering an aluminum radiator and new fans. mishimotos any good? one koyo is my budget for a new radiator and fans.

oh, and one final question...will i be able to attach my injen intake to the big16g, or will i need an adaptive coupling? or perhaps cut the intake up further so the diameter near the compressor side is larger and just run a coupler?
 
somebody will probably come in and tell me about how i can't up my thread

but i'm looking for answers. anybody?
 
i was thinking maybe an fpr w/ gauge, and probably porting out the stock manifold. maybe an air/fuel ratio gauge. i know i should get a wideband, but the basic air/fuel ratio gauge will at least tell me if i'm running too rich/lean, right?

The AFPR is necessary if you intend to go with a 255lph pump. On your wish-list setup, you could probably get away with a 190 and no AFPR. But an AFPR is still recommended.

The SAFCII isn't really recommended for anything larger than 550's. Some will disagree and say they've run 650's just fine on an AFC, but you'll suffer from pulled timing overall. DSMLink, a Keydiver chip, or some other form of fuel control would probably serve you better.

A narrowband A/F gauge won't tell you anything other than your O2 sensor is working correctly. Waste of money. Do the right thing the first time and get a Wideband. Then, if you go with Link or AEM or something like that, you're already set to log O2/AFR values.

.will i be able to attach my injen intake to the big16g, or will i need an adaptive coupling? or perhaps cut the intake up further so the diameter near the compressor side is larger and just run a coupler?

You'll be fine. Just take the doughnut ring spacer out and the coupler should fit over the inlet just fine. If not, you can get couplers just about anywhere.

somebody will probably come in and tell me about how i can't up my thread

Don't "up" your thread. (We call it bumping.) Just use the EDIT POST feature to add information/questions to your existing posts.
 
what are some good fpr's? yeah i realized that i can just use a 190, and probably pick up a set of 550's instead of 650's. hopefully that'll be enough for at least 20 psi on the big16g.
 
Out of curiosity, why run only 10-12 psi on the 16g? At that pressure you won't flow very much air. These aren't hondas, you can up the boost a bit on the street.
 
Aeromotive FPR is good. And I don't how far you want to go but you might consider cams, a GM MAF and translator. PM me I have HKS 264/272 and SAFC which is basically the same as the SAFCII.
 
Good one, yes you will probably want to log if you are doing that much stuff... otherwise you could risk damaging the motor. You can make a cable and get a palm off ebay or somewhere for cheap. here is a link on how to make a cable for mmcd: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...t-up-mmcd-make-logging-cable.html#post1690764

I recently purchased a palm515 but plam505, palm515, and I think even Palm IIIc are all good color palm pilots for logging... the IIIc is the oldest color one you can get and only has like a few colors... the newer palm 505 and 515 do thousands of colors. I got my Palm515 off ebay for only $30 shipped, and then I bought a serial cable for it from some other random site for like $10.

I hope this is helpful and informative, if it is please do the thing that helps my reputation, I have been a member for ages but now I am in a real jam and need to sell my car in order to afford school, but i dont have the points yet to post to classifieds.
 
maybe i'll think about running 14-16 psi for street, and then 18-20 on the "race" setup.

i'll definitely be logging by using a palm after reading your guys' suggestions.
 
Good one, yes you will probably want to log if you are doing that much stuff... otherwise you could risk damaging the motor. You can make a cable and get a palm off ebay or somewhere for cheap. here is a link on how to make a cable for mmcd: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...t-up-mmcd-make-logging-cable.html#post1690764

I recently purchased a palm515 but plam505, palm515, and I think even Palm IIIc are all good color palm pilots for logging... the IIIc is the oldest color one you can get and only has like a few colors... the newer palm 505 and 515 do thousands of colors. I got my Palm515 off ebay for only $30 shipped, and then I bought a serial cable for it from some other random site for like $10.

I hope this is helpful and informative, if it is please do the thing that helps my reputation, I have been a member for ages but now I am in a real jam and need to sell my car in order to afford school, but i dont have the points yet to post to classifieds.

good info. i'd put you up for points but i don't know how...i believe you're supposed to have a thread of some kind?
 
Before you go too far don't forget brakes and tires. Whether you upgrad them or just maintain them, you must be able to stop. Too many people skip this step and then end up parting out thier car after they total it out.
 
How many miles on your gsx? Something to consider that once you start getting your power levels up there, you will probably want to go with an aftermarket clutch as the stock one will eventually start to slip. I didn't see a manual boost controller on your list, but that is pretty basic so you probably already considered that.
 
IMO how much are you spending I would rather go this route:

DSMlink
Eprom

Then

Evo Fuel Pump
650-1000cc Injectors (look for deals)

Then save for a e16g when ya can your outcome will be far greater in the long run if you start with the support first DSMlink is one of the best mods you can do to your car. Sure run SAFC and tune with a logger if you can but under them hot days and you decided to punch it the AFC wont tell you what's gonna happen to your car if your having problems.
 
As has been mentioned, I would really consider running DSMLink, the tuning ability in it vs an SAFC is huge & its very user friendly. With DSMLink you won't be limited with injector size either, as with 550's you can easily max them out with the evoIII16g when you start to push the turbo. Even 14-16psi seems abit low for your daily tune (of course we want a proper tune when we do this) but you shouldn't have a problem running 18psi daily, if the rest of your setup is in proper working condition & you have the correct supporting mods. I use to run 18-20psi daily on my evoIII & actually was running 22psi at one time when my boost gauge wasn't reading properly. I now run 24-25psi daily (much larger turbo) & know others who run more. So you shouldn't be worried that your pushing your setup to hard, with the types of boost your planning to run.

If you go with the 255 pump, then I would recommend a FPR to prevent overrun. Now if you don't think your goals will go any higher then what you first posted you can get away with the 190 pump & no FPR if your trying to save some money. That setup has been proven to meet the 400hp mark, which you should have lots of room to play with, if you only plan to run 18-20psi max (with 20psi on a 16g sized turbo, stock top end, proper supporting mods & a half descent tune you should be looking around the 300whp mark).
 
darren - really insightful stuff. thanks a lot! also, thanks to everybody else for their help!

i've decided to run 650cc's and get dsmlink. will i need a laptop...? i'm familiar with dsmlink but don't know exactly how it works. i'm getting a fuelab fpr and 190 lph...should i just get the 255 instead?

oh, and i bought a hallman pro mbc the other day. thanks for looking out though!

also, i'm soon going to have all my rotors/pads replaced with oem. my friend works at firestone and is getting it done for cheap for me.

if things go to plan, i'll have this setup running by the end of summer.

oh yeah, looks like i'll have to do my own porting. i guess fftec doesn't port turbos.

another thing- what does it take to run dsmlink? i know i need an eprom ecu (can i send mind out to get eprom'd? how much does this usually cost? am i better off getting one with this done already?), the actual dsmlink (whatever that is?), and a laptop...right? i'm not sure. i have a macbook and i might be able to run windows based programs with WMWare's Fusion. i don't have any oldschool connectors on this though- just usb and firewire.

edit: i just did some research and i guess dsmlink will socket my ecu for me. i guess i'll just go that route. also, i guess i'll have to pick up an older laptop off ebay with a db9 interface. i also updated the "to get" list.
 
I would say to just get the 255lph pump and done. This way you won't ever have to upgrade (until you need to run 2 pumps for the big hp numbers).

As for DSMlink, you will need to get an EPROM ECU (which are only found in '95's). Your ECU's circuit board is not set up to handle the EPROM chip. Once you get the ECU, you can order DSMlink. When you order it, you will also (most likely) need to get the socket service as well. This will require you to send your ECU to ECM Tuning to get the stock EPROM chip removed and a socket put in it's place. Then you place the programmed EPROM chip you receive with the DSMlink package in the socket. This will be programmed for you car - certain injector size, idle RPM, launch RPM, rev limit, CAS inversion, etc. All of these settings can be changed though through the software.

You will need a laptop, palm, or smartphone to run DSMlink. The laptop is the best option as it is what ECM Tuning built the software for. The palm and smartphone applications were built by others and aren't as complete. But they're nice if you don't want to keep a laptop with you all the time. They have adapted DSMlink to work on Mac's. You will also need to buy the Keyspan serial-to-USB adapter from them as well. The cable that comes with DSMlink is a serial cable but they Keyspan adapter is proven to work great with the conversion. That can be bought from various computer stores as well as directly from ECM Tuning.

An EPROM ECU will run you about $200 or so. They can be found in the classifieds, eBay, craigslist, etc. Then you'll have to purchase the software ($515 I believe), the socket service ($20), and the Keyspan adapter ($19 or so).
 
this is true now that i think about it...plus i'll have the fpr...ehhh...

what size do you recommend? i'm trying to keep it under 300.

wow, this is getting to be more expensive than i thought. i'm going to have to delay the finish of the project until the end of summer. these go-fast parts cost lots of money.
 
i'm currently in talks with FIC on arranging a set of injectors for me.

1150cc injectors, i know i can get something i don't need...but damn...i don't think i'll ever need injectors of that size. i was thinking 850?
 
This is why I asked ya how much are you looking to spend ect?

A rewired Evo fuel pump is pretty cheep and will push ya deep if you wanan save money and not get a AFPR.

Rewire kit 15.00
Evo FP 40-60 bucks

Evil ran 10s on a rewired 190 so don't be to scared. I run a evo fp rewired it flows almost as much as a 255 just about 30lph short.

that will save you some.

I went with PTE 880s I would pick something around the 750+ range look though some adds and find some low mileage injectors 750+

DSMlink I get it at a different price but normal user is 500.00 though the site call Thomas at emctuning they also stock ECUs so he might give ya a deal on ecus also 300.00 so you looking at about 700-800.00 for DSMlink.

So with what I just layed out in front of you is.

DSMlink 800.00
Laptop Ebay IBM T30 300.00
Injectors 300.00
Fuelpump with rewire 60.00

Total $1,460.00 ish

IF you want to go with a 255+AFPR add 200.00ish more

Save for a turbo unless your a ballah... Buy it.

For the turbo you'll need the SS feed line, Water lines, Drain line 1g will do, J-pipe, gaskets.
:thumb:
 
I've pretty much decided on the same thing, except i think i'm just going to go with the 255lph, fuelab fpr, dsmlink, and something around 750-850cc as far as injectors go.
 
i'm leaning towards 650's and safcII...just because that option is so much cheaper and suit my current goals. though i know the safcII won't be able to control the 650's at higher DC's, will i be able to hit 300 awhp around 20-22 psi with that fuel management setup?

of course, after this "project" is done, i'm going to start saving for dsmlink and start to push more after i do my 100k service (timing belt, water pump, balance shaft removal, etc)

edit: of course i'll be logging, too
 
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