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T-25 Max Boost??

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mnetwork

20+ Year Contributor
1,017
2
Feb 25, 2006
New Milford, New Jersey
Hello, I have just bought my a hallman pro rx mbc, greddy type-s bov, and just about to buy my boost guage. Also within the next few months I'm going to buy a 16g kit and a walbro 255 fuel pump (but currently not going to run with those). Currently I just want to up the boost on the t-25 before I buy the new turbo. I just wanted to know the max boost that the t-25 and my car can handle. I currently have an intake, 3" dp catless, and an apexi n1 catback...

Also, is glow shift a good enough brand to use their boost guage??
 
This is something you should have searched for as its an extremely common question but with an upgraded bov (since the stocker leaks ~12 psi & will be working the t25 to hard if you try to up the boost) you can run 16 psi. This is the max you should run with the t25 since its so small, anymore boost and you will just be making hot air.
 
please search, or you wont last in this forum. Just search A pillar gauges and you should find some good discussions on what gauges people like to use. Hope this helps.
 
Make sure you log your car and have some kind of fuel controller before you just turn up the boost. You could cause knock and if the turbo does blow hot air you will cause lots of knock if your intercooler is stock.
 
I have already searched and haven't found anyone's opinion on glow shift guages.. I'm thinking about getting a double pillar with an a/f ratio gauge and boost gauge... I want to know if glow shift is good enough to trust for the boost gauge...
 
I don't think anyone here has even heard of them. Seriously. I'm starting to think a new gauge company appears every week or two. BUT... this means that you get to be the first to try them out and review them for the rest of us to read about!!! How cool is that?!

Seriously, try it out. If they don't work for you or if you don't like them, you buy another boost gauge for $40.
 
my wife has a set of glow shift guages in her 98 gsx that she just bought. Cant say how accurate that are maybe i will test that tonight.. they do look nice, but im more of a autometer guy
 
95TalonOwner said:
You could just go to autozone now and buy a boost gauge. I noticed that they now sell autometer gauges there.
PLEASE tell me your kidding, all I can say is you get what you pay for. Also to the poster of this thread, if you take the stock BOV and crush it about 1/8" then they will hold about 22psi-25psi generally, but I wouldnt go about 14psi on a T25, not a very big turbo ya know. Also I wouldnt up the boost on the 16G until you put the wally on and get the engine tuned and a fuel management controller like JayRolla.
 
fourreGsixty3 said:
PLEASE tell me your kidding, all I can say is you get what you pay for. Also to the poster of this thread, if you take the stock BOV and crush it about 1/8" then they will hold about 22psi-25psi generally, but I wouldnt go about 14psi on a T25, not a very big turbo ya know. Also I wouldnt up the boost on the 16G until you put the wally on and get the engine tuned and a fuel management controller like JayRolla.


You can run more then 14 psi as they usually run 12-14 from the factory (unlike the 1g's which run lower boost from factory). Like I said 16 psi is what you want to run this will give you a good punchy mid range. You will still lose boost in the highe rpms but theres nothing you can do about that, the t25 is just to small. Just don't bother running more then 16 because you will just be making heat.
 
You cant just turn it up to 16psi and be ok. You need a logger to know if your knocking ok. If you turn up the t25 it will produce more heat which causes a hotter intake charge. With a stock intercooler he could cause knock. Ive heard of people with a FMIC running 18-20psi on a t25 with a logger and some kind of fuel control. Just because one car runs without knock at 16psi, doesnt mean his wont. You need a data logger so you can read knock. Turn up boost without causing knock. Myself would never go over 12psi on any setup with out a logger its just to risky. Loggers can be found for $125 and way worth it.
 
JayRolla said:
You cant just turn it up to 16psi and be ok. You need a logger to know if your knocking ok. If you turn up the t25 it will produce more heat which causes a hotter intake charge. With a stock intercooler he could cause knock. Ive heard of people with a FMIC running 18-20psi on a t25 with a logger and some kind of fuel control. Just because one car runs without knock at 16psi, doesnt mean his wont. You need a data logger so you can read knock. Turn up boost without causing knock. Myself would never go over 12psi on any setup with out a logger its just to risky. Loggers can be found for $125 and way worth it.


On a 1g with a 14b turning up the boost that high would be more of an issue as they run lower boost from the factory and the 14b will flow alot more vs a t25. Alot of 2g's run more then 12 psi from the factory. Yes gettin a logger is the best way to go so you know exactly whats going on (and is a must have once you start doing more "major" mods such as fuel & larger turbos) but I don't think it is absolutely necessary with the t25 as long as you keep the boost 15 to 16 psi. I have personal experience with this & know of many who have done the same without any issues.
 
Did the people you know log to make sure they where not knocking. Turning up the boost will make hot air no madder what turbo and since the turbo is small it will blow hot air the higher you turn it up. I do agree with you but he may have a problem at 16psi. Always be safe than sorry
 
To back up the other guys, keep it under 16lbs. I thought I'd try to max mine out 2 years ago - I got 25 lbs out of it and MELTED some of the T25's internals :cry:
 
Sounds good... two more questions...

Where should I tap in for the boost controller. I have already searched and some people say into the bov... some say compressor housing... What do you think are the two best spots?

Also... What logger's do you guys use?
 
Use the compressor housing. Here is a good thread where oldman explains the advantages of using the compressor housing or lower intercooler pipe for boost controller and the disadvantages of using the BOV line for the MBC. Read the whole thing for a good discussion. There's even a cool motivational sign that some creative member made. ;)

Second question I can't answer, personally. I have no logger, which sounds hypocritical since I advise using one so much. BUT, I'm getting DSMLink within the next month and don't drive my car very much anyway, so... it's just a matter of time. :)


Edit: Ordered DSMLink today, 4-12-06, after four years of waiting. :D
 
a buddy of mine ran 17 lbs all summer with some very rough driving but after about 4-5 months the turbo was dead. It had shaftplay like no other.
 
So just to get this straight... I remove all tubing that goes to the BCS.... Tap into the compressor housing and tap in where else???
 
daren_p said:
On a 1g with a 14b turning up the boost that high would be more of an issue as they run lower boost from the factory and the 14b will flow alot more vs a t25. Alot of 2g's run more then 12 psi from the factory. Yes gettin a logger is the best way to go so you know exactly whats going on (and is a must have once you start doing more "major" mods such as fuel & larger turbos) but I don't think it is absolutely necessary with the t25 as long as you keep the boost 15 to 16 psi. I have personal experience with this & know of many who have done the same without any issues.
Ive never seen a 2g that runs more than 12psi from the factory, are they diffrent in canada?
 
My 2g stock would hit almost 14psi with no MBC so each car can be a little different. Glow shift guages are pieces of sh#t, at least I haven't had good luck with them. Autometer is what I run now. I'm spiking like crazy since my uic pipe install with 1g bov. Don't really no why but my main concern would be proper fuel and not blowing the headgasket. really 15 to 16 psi is okay but stock fuel pump is not so good, buddy of mine blew his headgasket on cylinder #1 b/c of spike on a t-25. Can't wait to fix my problem but I would second 15 to 16 psi on t-25.
 
mnetwork said:
So just to get this straight... I remove all tubing that goes to the BCS.... Tap into the compressor housing and tap in where else???

Short answer, yes. Leave the BCS electrical plug plugged in; the ECU likes to see the signal from it even though the nipples are capped off. Long answer below, taken from another of my posts in another thread.

I'll post this for people for future reference. This is using a TurboXS High-Performance model manual boost controller, an RRE L-pipe with NPT nipple fitting, and a 14b wastegate. Hope this helps some of you visualize how things go. Your boost controller may vary, though. I hope everyone can read the writing on the pics. Behold my mad MS Paint skillz:

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