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System setup (pics inside)

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Bobanoid

Probationary Member
23
0
Jun 19, 2004
Roslyn, New York
my system

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I like the Clarion CD Player, it looks like it fits perfectly. The sub box looks good, but the wiring looks really bad. Hide the wires under the carpet and feed it from the side of the box. The install will look better if you mount the amps on the rear side of each sub box. If you want to have amps above your sub box, get an amp rack instead of the wood. Here is a link to a Qlogic Dual Amp rack from ebay which you can paint to match the interior of your car. http://cgi.ebay.com/Q-LOGIC-Q-CUSTO...oryZ1498QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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The wiring needs to be cleaned up. Not really feeling the door hinges,could just be me though? The vinyl looks as if it needs to be pulled a little tighter, give it a smoother look. Good job otherwise though:thumb: what does it sound like?
 
I'd flip the box around the other way, and fab up some trim panels to hide the wiring and give it a finished look, as well as get rid of teh hinges and clean up that lower area. I'[d also make it so I could put the factory cover back on if you plan on keeping it and not donating it to the "thief sells at pawnshop fund"

TO make the Bassknobs easier to access, take the most often used one and put it in the ashtray. Why do you have 2 knobs anyway?

A little filework to take about a mm off the "point" and it is a perfect press fit. Flip open when needed or leave open except when parked. I love having mine there.

I did the same thing with a single led to illuminate that little cubby in the console... Same color even.
MAkes it usable at night.

best of luck
 
Yea, the wires are basically hidden by the seats as of now, since you have to flip em down to see the subs. im thinking of making the top shelf kinda drop down to cover the other wires, but we will see what happens. the main point of the bottom hinges is because i decided to remove my spare tire and i built a custom compartment down there. it can fit a good amount of stuff, and i put foam between the vinyl and the wood so its all padded. eventually i am probably going to repaint the mitsu emblem and revinyl the doors. Finally the reason i didnt mount the amps and stuff on the back of the box is because the hinges are literally perfectly opening with the position of the cap and amps.
 
DGajre777 said:
I like the Clarion CD Player, it looks like it fits perfectly. The sub box looks good, but the wiring looks really bad. Hide the wires under the carpet and feed it from the side of the box. The install will look better if you mount the amps on the rear side of each sub box. If you want to have amps above your sub box, get an amp rack instead of the wood. Here is a link to a Qlogic Dual Amp rack from ebay which you can paint to match the interior of your car. http://cgi.ebay.com/Q-LOGIC-Q-CUSTO...oryZ1498QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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IMO, you don't even need to paint it. The rack is grey, your interior is grey. That would clean that up nicely.

And, not feeling the homemade hinge leather doors either.
 

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Turn the subs around you will get better bass, you can also leave the seats up all the time and hide all the wiriing. Cut as much of the wiring off as you can. Why are there 2 distribution blocks hopefully one of them isnt a fuse block. You always want the fuse block inside the engine compartment 6inches or so from the battery, that way if you ground out on something you will blow the fuse. In example if you ground out on the firewall or any area before the fuse block you are going to continue grounding out even after you trip the fuse. There is still current going all the way until it hits the fuse block, that can cause a fire. If you have it 6 inches from the battery it will cut out all power except for that 6 inches so you have less of an area to ground out on. Also not to be mean but that hinge idea looks horrible, remove that completely, get some cardboard and make a template of the area trace it onto a peice of 1/4 inch plywood, cut it out with a jig saw, carpet it, and fit it in there snug. It will look much better.
 
I just noticed something. How is the capacitor wired? When I had mine, one terminal was ground and the other was power. The power terminal had wire coming from the battery and going to the amplifier. I only see 2 red wires on your capacitor. Is this a new design or something??
 
I'm going to sound like a dick, but that looks VERY ghetto. All you did was run the wire and hook it up. No concern for making it look nice at all, except for that rack. I'd hide the wire, flip the subs up towards the glass (you'll get more bass) and at least paint the rack the same color.

Good choice of stereo equipment, just work on the presentation.

Also... that whole board that sits right in front of the subs looks very unneeded... find a way to run the wire and hide those distibution block.
 
first off the two distribution blocks are for the Capacitor and the power wire. basically i ran a 4 gauge to the T block and ran that to the cap and back which is why i only needed 2 wires for my capacitor, i then took that wire and ran it into another distribution block dividing the power into two 8 gauge wires to power the amps. thas about it. personally i dun really like using built custom enclosures or other things like that only because it just feels like a more accomplished job by urself. secondly i pointed them inward for the sake of an initial setup and idea. and if u havent heard them pointed towards you it hits pretty hard and uses much less power also making less rattle especially in hard to get to trunk panels. this way all the rattle if any is in one of the four panels (2 rear or 2 door) which are much easier to work with especially in a 95 that has been a daily driver. but overall im happy with the job, since it is my first setup. =) gotta start somewhere
 
Ok what is with all that power wire. Run 2 power wires and 2 grounds to the capacitor. (1 power from the battery, 1 power wire to the amp, 1 ground to a good solid ground, 1 ground to the amp. Also use wire with a black jacket so you can easily distinguish the ground. You want to use as less wire as possible at all times. Get rid of those distributor blocks and shorten up that wire. Those hinges look horrible get rid of them like yesterday its look like you are transporting the "indian in the cupboard"
 
halik008 said:
agreed ...looks quite ghetto...

when will people get that HOME DEPOT PARTS DO NOT BELONG ON OUR CARS?!?!?

halik


Lots of home depot parts work better than stock parts. Hell, in the racing community, some call it "the big orange race car parts store".

Just because its not how you would do something doesn't make it bad. I personally would have set it up differently, but that's because I'm an audiophile wannabe. Do whatever creams your twinkie with your own audio setup.

Oh, and for all of you who are saying "point the subs this way they'll be louder"... unless you've tried those subs, in that box facing the direction you're talking about, you do not know if they'll be louder. And I'm guessing that he really doesn't need them any louder. Most people prefer clean over pure volume. Hatchback cars really don't have near the problems with cancellation, or muffling that coupes do. I'd still reccomend playing around with it to see what sounds best to you.

*My personal idea for how you could improve on your design*
Shorten all of the wires you can, especially that blue wire... looks like you have 10 extra feet. Clean up the vinyl, and if possible put the hinges on the inside. (just adds to the cleaner look) I'd fab up an actual amp rack on top of the boxes. basically make it such that you set the amps in a "hole" so that only the tops of the amps stick out. make sure not to block fan ports if those amps have them. this will help with cleaning up the wires, as if you're setting them in a built up carpeted rack, you can route all the wires such that they aren't seen. Put the mitsu logo on that, as well as your distribution blocks, and you'd be all set.
 
Yea thanks for the advice, and yea for everyone hating on home depot that place is a gold mine if you know what your looking for. especially since half the parts in our cars are just bent pieces of metal or plastic. i mean if you ever look under your hood or the bottom of your car or even your interior alot of the things especially in our cars can be easily rigged for a fraction of the price. when it comes to spending a grand and simply bolting something in, or spending a couple hours thinking and planning and mabye spending 100 ill take the few hours more on labor and hte less money then blowing my cash on parts which i could easily make. just a thought. try fixing something yourself before going out and buying something you dont need.
 
thoase amps don't have fans and now that I am thinking about it you probably have 2 sub amps since you have 2 knobs???

Easy and cheap material to work with is 1/4" MDF for making trim panels etc. It custs clean and fast with just a jig saw.

TO give it a more "Finished/pro" look

If you really like the amps there cut the thick board (looks like nice appleply?) in two so you can screw more than one side of the amp into it. Move each piece over to the ouside some and you will have room to recess your capacitor in the middle where it can be flushed in as well instead of sticking out. Add a trim piece to the sides of the box too. (hid your stash there if you want and get rid of the other one) and recover EVERYTHING including the box on all matching material. (a lighter gray would be better if you can find it. Mitsu gray has hints of purple in it so it is a hard color to match too.)

ROUGH `chop just so you can get an Idea of what a difference it could make for you.

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yea i like the idea ## thinking of. i think imma start with making the sides flush nd find some carpet for em. cuz it looks mad clean with the whole piece accross the back. well the fans for the amps are where the V is da part that lights up red in da night pic. so i could potentially cover the sides but i think it wud make more sense to jus make kinda like cut outs for the amps. but thanks for the advice.
 
Even if they do have fans (I don't remember any kickers that did in that size) you don't have to worry about airflow. they pick up from under the metal covers.
You can dump the covers and jsut do a trim panel. or keep them and do a press fit panel (my suggestion). you can also color coordinate or use a contrasting color (gloss black looks great on them)

easiest way to do a GOOD trim panel is to make a 1" wide hollow square "ring" out of 1/2" mdf that will fit almost snugly around the amps. then get a piece of Foam board or cardboard and trim that to the outside shape you need. place the "rings" around the amps and prop them up so they are higher than the amp and put a bead of contact cement in the corner of each one and put the fiber board ontop.
Lift off, trim out the inside of the squares and use the fiberboard/cardboard as your pattern.
Glue or staple the MDF rings in place on the 1/4 mdf and cover. The extra depth gives a more finished look, and if you use some sort of padding over the whole piece it gives a plush rounded look to the edges instead of being able to see a gap around the amps. It also helps since the amps are not squared up on the edge but have those little peaks that makes most folk's covers look like A double S.

Finally try to use vinyl instead of carpet if you really want an ultra clean look.


Best of luck to ya.
 
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