Suggestions on compression and brands.

[TexasHavoc]

I'm picking up a 98 gst with a blown motor and it has a spare short block, head with valves springs etc, blitz bov, greddy etc etc. Anyways I'm wanting to build a solid 300whp car and eventually awd swap it. My dad owns a mechanic shop, but he's old school so he doesn't know alot about turbos etc and I'm 28. This will be my first turbocharged car. It's not gonna be my daily and I know it won't happen over night and its gonna cost alot of money! I'm not a kid just to get that outta the way. What brand pistons, rods, crank should I be looking at and what compression? Also which sites should I be ordering from(best prices etc) eventually I'll be trying to get more power out of it etc, but for now I wanna keep it around 300 since I'm gonna have a spare block I can always build a more serious motor with a bigger turbo etc. Any suggestions/help or certain people's build logs I should look at?

 

[Vegas Smith]

You could just go with an oem rebuild if you're only shooting for 300hp. Many people run 400+ on stock 4g63s.

 

[TexasHavoc]

Thanks, but I would rather go ahead and put some stuff in it that will handle alot more, for when i do put a big turbo on it. Let's say I do wanna shoot closer to 400 now then?

 

[TexasHavoc]

I've read the buschur? Racing stuff I think that's the page.... And I know what mods to do first, but I want to do all the internals right the first time. I'm planning on this build to take 1-2 yrs and if I can get 400 whp out of it then let's go with that. I'm not wanting to stroke it tho. First thing I do when I get it, is take it apart and take the block to the machine shop and get it all checked over and bored etc if needed so I'll know what size pistons I need. But I have no clue on compression. I know it needs to be lower for the turbo.....

 

[Vegas Smith]

Well that's the strength of these cars is the strong stock motor. A lot of people will throw some upgraded pistons (wiseco) and maybe some eagle rods and it could be good for 600hp. More importantly you would want upgraded ARP head studs to handle increased boost. The head really doesn't need too much except upgraded cams in the future for better airflow.

 

[TexasHavoc]

What compression would u suggest and turbo for around 400+ HP? So a OEM 7 bolt crank is good around that power? I've heard about crank walk etc... Thanks for the help man.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I've read the buschur? Racing stuff I think that's the page.... And I know what mods to do first, but I want to do all the internals right the first time. I'm planning on this build to take 1-2 yrs and if I can get 400 whp out of it then let's go with that. I'm not wanting to stroke it tho. First thing I do when I get it, is take it apart and take the block to the machine shop and get it all checked over and bored etc if needed so I'll know what size pistons I need. But I have no clue on compression. I know it needs to be lower for the turbo.....

Well stock 2g pistons are 8:5 CR which is a happy medium. My engine has 8:5 wisecos. Most people stick with 8:5 through 9:1 for street builds. I believe once you start getting much higher CR pistons you have less margin for error in tuning (however I can't verify that)

 

[TexasHavoc]

Thank you. so 8:5 or 9:1 for a street machine. Which turbo would you suggest for around 400 HP? OEM crank or aftermarket?

 

[Vegas Smith]

Thank you. so 8:5 or 9:1 for a street machine. Which turbo would you suggest for around 400 HP? OEM crank or aftermarket?

Well that's a really complicated question. Mostly I would tell you to do a search on Google and you will bring up a million threads on 400hp turbo choices. However, most likely options for that power would be FP Green, HTA68, mitsu 20g and HX35.I wouldn't even bother worrying about it until you get the car running clean and start getting supporting mods done to it.

Stock crank is fine but I have no experience with anything else other than virgin stock cranks not regrinds or aftermarket.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I don't mind helping with questions but you should really Google all these questions you have and you will find a wealth of information coming from people with much more experience than I. Just type in your question and add DSM to the end and it will bring you right back here. The search function on this site is useless.

 

[TexasHavoc]

I will do. Guess I'll just do a simple rebuild and the spare block I'll start building a 400+ build. Would a mild cam hurt around 300hp? If so which would yal suggest? And which brand theirs so many.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Which sites should I be ordering from(best prices etc)

http://www.dsmtuners.com/#vendors

Let's say I do wanna shoot closer to 400 now then?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/basic-horsepower-ugrades-2g-4g63t.480196/

The best advice from the link above:

A few things to keep in mind when you start modding:

• Set a goal/budget before buying any parts. No plan = more money later.
• Be realistic with those goals and plans. What will your car be used for?
• There is no "best" part when it comes to modding.
• Find out the emissions requirements in your area before choosing parts.
• Do your research before you buy parts - make sure the parts you buy will work together well.
• Usable power under the curve is important, not just big overall horsepower numbers.
• Work within your budget.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I will do. Guess I'll just do a simple rebuild and the spare block I'll start building a 400+ build. Would a mild cam hurt around 300hp? If so which would yal suggest? And which brand theirs so many.

I wouldn't even bother with cams at that power level. Your turbo is your biggest determinant of power with these cars. Focus on building the car cleanly with quality parts done right and by then you will have had time to learn more about the car and will be able to make more educated decisions.

 

[TexasHavoc]

K thanks. Yeah we don't have emissions where I live. I'm out in the country so I'm gonna do a electric cutout for when i do wanna get down on it. It's not gonna be a daily car unless my car breaks and my wife's at the same time. It's just gonna be a fun weekend toy/project car. I just found out the block that's in the car is trashed so I only have one good block. Should I buy another or look for a 6 bolt? Aren't they better? I'm def wanting atleast 300 whp when I get it running more would def be better tho. Searching for a gsx so I can awd swap it also. Can I get 350whp out of the stock turbo?

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

I only have one good block. Should I buy another or look for a 6 bolt? Aren't they better?

Read up:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/6-...7bolt-6-bolt-7-bolt-six-bolt-seven-bolt.4626/

Can I get 350whp out of the stock turbo?

No. Refer to post #12.

 

[zedicus]

unless its crank walked or a rod went through the block its hard to imagine it being trashed.

if you still have 1 good block why bother getting another?

 

[TexasHavoc]

He said it looked like the piston came loose and broke the cylinder wall. Thanks I understand about the 6bolts now. I need to do more reading about crank walk etc.

 

[TexasHavoc]

Yes one good block its on an engine stand. It was pulled out of a gsx that caught on fire

 

[PlanZero]

What year is the spare block? 98-99 you're good to go, split thrust=less chance of crankwalk

 

[TexasHavoc]

Nope it's a 96.... Anything I can do to try and prevent it?

 

[TexasHavoc]

It's a 96. I'm doing a full rebuild, so if I put a OEM or aftermarket crank shaft and thrust bearing I should be good then correct?

 

[AlmightySo]

I went with 8.3:1 compression for my 6 bolt, just so I can play with timing and add more boost, stock 6 bolt compression is 7.8:1 I believe

 

[TexasHavoc]

Ok thanks yeah mines a 7 bolt (correct me if I'm wrong 96) but I def will want to be able to play with the timing and ad boost etc.

 

[PlanZero]

As has been discussed many, many times crankwalk can happen in any motor. 6bolt vs 7bolt or a combination thereof is a debate that will go on as long as this platform exists. Personally I have a built 2ga (95-96) 7 bolt @ stock 8.5:1and I don't forsee any problems, although if I ever seek out another motor it will be a 98-99 7 bolt. It took those Mitsubishi engineers about 10 years to figure it out, then they killed the DSM platform.
I say stick with what's meant to be for the generation. There are many quirks and idiosyncrasies when doing the "1g in a 2g". If you're doing a build properly you shouldn't have problems.
Or you can do what jack does; retrofit a 6bolt crank in a 7 bolt block if you wanna get crazy