ECMlink Stuttering past 5k

[96spyderdrag]

Ever since I put ecmlink in my car it wont rev past 5k without stuttering. Clutch cut is set to 7500k but won't go past 5k. I have my clutch unplugged so I can start it without pushing it in.
Do I need to uncheck clutch cut box?

 

[steve]

Standard drill, please post a log and fill out your car profile.

 

[96spyderdrag]

Just now seeing this, sorry. I updated my car profile but I won't be able to get a log until tomorrow

 

[96spyderdrag]

i think i did this right.
the car has a very rough idle also
@steve

 

[96spyderdrag]

Idle log
wb logging.
stays 18.0 in ecmlink gauge shows 20.
bump throttle at end of log
@steve

 

[steve]

Neither log shows you stuttering past 5k. The highest you go is 2200 but it's a good idle log.

1. Your TPS is misadjusted. The IPS is switching without the TPS changing much. Too close to the hairy edge. At idle you TPS is reading 2% (0.71-0.73v) where it should be 0. I know people suggest setting the 2g TPS by voltage but I prefer the more accurate but more difficult factory adjustment.

2. Your Front O2 sensor is very slow to respond and looks dead. The ECU is trying to get the front O2 to start switching and it doesn't respond.

3. The AEM does show some signs of life but it's questionable. Did you free air calibrate it and make sure there are no leaks in your exhaust? Is it a new sensor?

If the WB is actually working it would imply your fueling is way off. You could try reducing the Injector Global and see if the Front O2 and the WB react.

4. Your cold air intake doesn't seem to be working. While it might be hot in Tenn now, it's not 122F hot. At idle I'd be looking for IntTemp to be closer to outside air temps not underhood temps.

5. What temp is that Mishimoto racing thermostat?

 

[96spyderdrag]

Thanks for the reply.
1. I'll have to look how to fix this or can I fix in link of so how.
2. So just replace the front o2
3. Yes the aem x series is brand new
4. This temp was with temp gauge in middle and hood closed don't know if that matters.
5. 154.4°F or 143.6 can't remember

 

[steve]

For the 2G ECU to operate in closed loop the coolant temp must be >= to 180F and less that 228F. I think that thermostat is too cold for a street car.

You could bandaid the TPS/IPS in link but that's what it would be. I sent you a link to the correct adjustment procedure.

The factory gauge isn't very accurate. It's only good for telling you the engine hasn't warmed up or is about to boil over.

I'd try adjusting the fuel global first and see what the car does before adding any more new parts. Since the car seems to be lean try reducing the global % and if the O2 wakes up you'll know you need to look at why you don't seem to be getting as much fuel as you thought. Are the injectors new or used? What's your base fuel pressure?

Is the BOV recirculated, when was the last time you boost leak tested?

Until you get the basics right you shouldn't be driving it around.

 

[96spyderdrag]

I'm not around the car to look but I think pressure is 43 or so. And new 650cc. So reducing it adds more fuel? If that works what could cause that? Yes it's recirculating, no leaks. Car has just been put back together was driving and running fine until I did the last steps and that was the injectors and link now its doing this.

 

[96spyderdrag]

@steve
i fixed a few things. runs a lot better with new front o2, thanks for that info.
what do you think about this log