Stumped: Clutch Disengagement Issue

[AlphaAssault]

This issue started about a week ago, where at random intervals, the vehicle could not be put into any gear; but this symptom was never constant. It could be put into gear and driven normally just a few minutes later every time. This was happening once every one or two days. These were the initial symptoms, so I decided to replace the master cylinder. After installing the new cylinder, the car will not go into gear at all.

The clutch hydraulic system has been thoroughly bled, including bench-bleeding the new master cylinder and bleeding normally the slave. The master cylinder adjustment rod is adjusted for maximum throw. There are about 2 inches at the top of the clutch pedal throw that is softer than the rest of the throw, however my helper says that, even during this interval, the slave cylinder is still actuating the clutch fork.

The clutch fork is adjusted properly in the center of its little opening.

The trans will shift into gear when the engine is off. With the engine on and the clutch pedal depressed, it will not go into any gear; though the RPMs do drop slightly when trying to push into gear.

If the vehicle is put into gear with the engine off and the clutch pedal down, when cranking the engine the whole vehicle lurches.

There were no sounds before or during this whole process that would indicate a failure of any sort within the bell housing or transmission.

Prior to this I have not noticed any clutch issues like slipping or anything, but I havnt driven it hard in months.

What should the next step be? Because we are all out of ideas.

 

[timsturbotalon]

try a longer slave cylinder rod.

 

[Anubis_4_99]

i would say its time to pull the transmission.

you say if its in gear, clutch depressed and vehicle started that it lurches. obviously its still engaged.

pressure plate could have failed along with some other things internally that may not have had obvious signs of failure. if the slave is actuating the fork, and everything else is operating normally, then the only other direction to head is internal.

 

[tenn-gsx]

Follow the instructions here and make sure all your bellhousing bolts are tight.

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[overboostedtsi]

Have you checked your clutch pedal assembly?

 

[justinh722]

Definitely sounds like u need to drop the tranny. Sounds like the pressure plate or the clips on the throw out bearing possibly broke. Could even be a broken spring on the clutch disc.

 

[mindset]

As stated in your profile, that "aftermarket clutch" is probably trash. Time to upgrade!

 

[avengerKid]

Check your clutch pedal assembly make sure it doesn't have any up an down play. If it does that could be your culprit. I'd hate to see you replace everything then it be the pedal assembly.

 

[tenn-gsx]

Check the simple stuff before you jump strait to dropping the tranny. It only takse 1/2 hour to check the pedal assy, bellhousing bolts and clutch adjustment.

 

[habitatguy187]

try a longer slave cylinder rod.

Don't do that.


Good chance it could be the pedal assembly but odds are part of your clutch assembly is messed up. Our flywheels aren't meant to be resurfaced and even though some people do it, Mitsubishi says it's a replacement part. Point being it's not that hard to wear out a stock flywheel to the point where you can't disengage your clutch.

 

[hardcorandy]

I have the same problem with my 90. New slave, master, ss line and extended rod. Peddle has been adjusted.

I pulled my trans last week just to inspect a few things. I found that my clutch disc is very loose on the shaft causing a wobble. When it wobbles it binds which is keeping the disc in contact with flywheel or PP when clutch is pressed. I put some ACT lube on the splines and put everything back together. Clutch worked like a dream for a week and now is starting the same thing.

Ive seen a few threads like this and most where 90's. Think maybe it has something to do with the 22 spline and aftermarket clutches?

 

[DSM915RIDER]

tht sounds like ## clutch is giving out.. if u can only put it in when its off sounds like its giving up. but i could b wrong. when u dive it how does it feel when u shift if u could shift.?

 

[hardcorandy]

tht sounds like ## clutch is giving out.. if u can only put it in when its off sounds like its giving up. but i could b wrong. when u dive it how does it feel when u shift if u could shift.?

Mine shifts fine when car is off as well. This was a problem from day one. Had a brand new clutch when i bought the car but I ripped all the Ebay junk. I put an Act clutch and flywheel in it. Still had the issue after that and now going on 10k miles.

 

[AlphaAssault]

Check your clutch pedal assembly make sure it doesn't have any up an down play. If it does that could be your culprit. I'd hate to see you replace everything then it be the pedal assembly.

It has been checked, no play.

Check the simple stuff before you jump strait to dropping the tranny. It only takse 1/2 hour to check the pedal assy, bellhousing bolts and clutch adjustment.

Trans bolts are tight and there is no movement of the trans when the clutch is depressed.

tht sounds like ## clutch is giving out.. if u can only put it in when its off sounds like its giving up. but i could b wrong. when u dive it how does it feel when u shift if u could shift.?

Before swapping out the master cylinder, the car drove fine, aside from the random clutch disengagements. This is what bothers me. Because there is now 2 inches of play at the top of the pedal travel, I cant help but think that the problem still somehow lies with the hydraulic system. Would putting the old master cylinder back in work, or would I just be wasting my time at this point?

 

[WeaselHack]

You wouldnt be the first person with a new but defective master cyl.

You say the fork is dead center? Perhaps your old MC was giving you more travel for whatever reason. I personally would stick with your NEW MC and consider shimming your pivot ball:

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TRE TECH TIPS

 

[tenn-gsx]

It has been checked, no play.



Trans bolts are tight and there is no movement of the trans when the clutch is depressed.



Before swapping out the master cylinder, the car drove fine, aside from the random clutch disengagements. This is what bothers me. Because there is now 2 inches of play at the top of the pedal travel, I cant help but think that the problem still somehow lies with the hydraulic system. Would putting the old master cylinder back in work, or would I just be wasting my time at this point?

You replaced the master cyl. Are you sure the pushrod is adjusted properly?

 

[AlphaAssault]

Solved the issue. We had to start from the beginning, take the master cylinder back off, and bench-bleed it a second time. After we put it back on the car, we went through two or three bottles of fluid bleeding the clutch. Apparently air can get trapped in the master cylinder, or other parts of the hydraulic system, that cannot be released just by bleeding the system.

 

[DaRKSiDeGSX]

I have a 2g but I am in the same boat. I had 5 different people here helping I tried a reverse bleeding system, gravity bleeding, buddy in car bleeding, and every other bleeding possible. Then I assumed the MC was bad, I replaced that today and have 90% of the pedal pressurized. However, I still have about 2 inches with no pressure. I bench bled like you did, then on the car I used the line asra a bleeding point to try and get the rest out. I'm glad to hear that it's likely just some air still lurking in the system I was feeling kind of discouraged when I still didn't have 100% pressure. I guess I'm going to have to borrow that reverse bleeding kit again...

 

[dsmjunk]

i have the same problem i changed the slave bled it and still cant get it in gear. the weird thing is i jacked it up 2 check over everything and started the car pushed in the clutch and it goes in fine but when i pressed the brake pedal(because the wheel was spinning) and tried putting in gear and it wouldnt go.

 

[gusu]

I have a 2g but I am in the same boat. I had 5 different people here helping I tried a reverse bleeding system, gravity bleeding, buddy in car bleeding, and every other bleeding possible. Then I assumed the MC was bad, I replaced that today and have 90% of the pedal pressurized. However, I still have about 2 inches with no pressure. I bench bled like you did, then on the car I used the line asra a bleeding point to try and get the rest out. I'm glad to hear that it's likely just some air still lurking in the system I was feeling kind of discouraged when I still didn't have 100% pressure. I guess I'm going to have to borrow that reverse bleeding kit again...

When I replaced my slave yesterday I just had to take the slave off and put it back on to get the system to bleed properly.

What I did was have one friend continue to put in new fluid, I held a bottle with a vac hose running into new fluid and then the other friend push the clutch in until all the air bubbles were out.

After that I put the cap back on and closed the bleeder. Then you should be able to pump the clutch and regain pedal pressure.

I'd use a clear bottle to be able to see the bubbles.

 

[dsmjunk]

last time i had this issue it was the throw out bearing was not in all the way

 

[DaRKSiDeGSX]

I wish someone was in the Wilkes Barre PA area looking to make a couple bucks bleeding or diagnosing the situation here for me. I really have had enough...