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Studdering issue after 4k/5lbs

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Rajin

10+ Year Contributor
226
0
Jan 22, 2010
Cookeville, Tennessee
I'm having this issue, builds 5lbs of total boost then brick walls, all further accel is totally not happening, I'm going to clean my maf, I have yet to run a boost leak test, yet I'm about to hardpipe and reline the car as is. So if a boost leak is present I'll find it then. (Hopefully, my MBC isn't ran right, I need to tap my J Pipe)

Any other ideas, maybe Coil related, it's literally like a miss when I try to go into full boost, plugs and everything I've yet to check, it's a new issue.

16G, SAFC, Unrecirculated, FPR (no name, and I KNOW it's going bad), not checked on the fuel filter yet.

Any other ideas?
 
Alright man. Thanks.

My maf was so dirty, and funnily only had Only ONE side honeycomb removed...half assed. Covered in oil too.

Cleaned the filter out with some water, but it's going to need replaced eventually. I have a MAF from a Injen intake I won't use that has both honeycombs dropped and a gorgeous looking inside and no honey comb damage. I'm swapping them out now.
 
I seem to be having this very same issue. Got brand new plugs (not ngk's) tried gapping them and .026, .028, .030, and .032. that didn't help and so I got the COP setup and still having the same issue. Did a boost leak test and air is coming somewhere out of the TB not sure exactly where in there. But the car idle's fine and if I manage to hold 3lbs of boost steady there is no sputter, as soon as I try to boost any more I don't get the "brick wall" but it definately cuts out pretty bad. The previous 16g went out and was replaced with an Evo III Big 16g brand new but maybe the old turbo got oil all the way up to the MAF? Don't know if this helps the original poster and not trying to thread jack but need some help!! Thanks
 
I seem to be having this very same issue. Got brand new plugs (not ngk's) tried gapping them and .026, .028, .030, and .032. that didn't help and so I got the COP setup and still having the same issue. Did a boost leak test and air is coming somewhere out of the TB not sure exactly where in there. But the car idle's fine and if I manage to hold 3lbs of boost steady there is no sputter, as soon as I try to boost any more I don't get the "brick wall" but it definately cuts out pretty bad. The previous 16g went out and was replaced with an Evo III Big 16g brand new but maybe the old turbo got oil all the way up to the MAF? Don't know if this helps the original poster and not trying to thread jack but need some help!! Thanks

Take a bottle of soapy water and spray your throttle body and see where it coming from and fix it.
 
I seem to be having this very same issue. Got brand new plugs (not ngk's) tried gapping them and .026, .028, .030, and .032. that didn't help and so I got the COP setup and still having the same issue. Did a boost leak test and air is coming somewhere out of the TB not sure exactly where in there. But the car idle's fine and if I manage to hold 3lbs of boost steady there is no sputter, as soon as I try to boost any more I don't get the "brick wall" but it definately cuts out pretty bad. The previous 16g went out and was replaced with an Evo III Big 16g brand new but maybe the old turbo got oil all the way up to the MAF? Don't know if this helps the original poster and not trying to thread jack but need some help!! Thanks

Your best bet would be what Razr said, he helped me track down my issue easily.

Sounds like you have a Vac leak right at the TB.

I had one too actually, check your maf as well, make sure it's clean.
 
Yes. Thats what it sounds like. Mine was leaking in between the throttle body elbow and the throttle body itself (the gasket between). I put a thin layer of rtv/silicone on it. Sealed it right up. Check the vacuum lines on top of throttle body also.
 
Changed the maf and took it out tonight, the brick wall effect isn't as bad, but the car seems to idle very low after rolling into boost.

Like it's about to die type idle, must've been something adjusting to the new maf or I have another issue somewhere.
 
Oh okay gotcha. So how is everything now ?

Still rocky, I found out my spark plug socket set was MIA, I have 8MM plug wires on the car, but I swapped them up to see if I could get anything better out of some new ones my friend had.

Still unsure, my MAF is adjusted fully open. I put the original back on after modifying the other honeycomb side to allow it to flow like the one I forgot to adjust, my TB vacs are blocked off. Cleaned filter and everything, my cylinder 3 misfire is still present, plugs or ignition control modules are at play here.

The 7mm plug wires run rocky with the car, I'm going back to the 8s.

Car is rocky at idle still, even with AFC adjustment leading me to think it's a Plug/Coil issue for sure.

Trys to idle at 800 but lifts to 1000 then 500, keeps doing that like a steady pulsing miss from one of the sources.
 
And you put new plugs in? Are the wires new that you are currently running

New wires, BPR7ES, and now the idle is really rough, and the alt belt will squeal if it drops too low, the belts going.

FPR is bad as well, number 3 missfire still exists.


Coil and FPR are culprits?

I'm lost on this...

I'm still confused here.

Anyone, I got the IAT code, thats my MAF right, so it's the reason I'm still having issues?
 
Okay, bump, still havent figured this out.

I had a friend say HG, but I'm not sure its that. The plug wires and such looked fine when removed and there wasn't any oil or water in the spark plug hole.
 
I haven't gotten to the soap test or cleaning the maf yet, but anywhere in the TB leaking would mean new TB right? The 4 nuts/bolts holding it to the IM are not leaking and the nut holding the Throttle cable piece leaks (real name for piece is blank in my head now) then if that nut is tight as I can get it then what else can I tighten?
 
Okay, bump, still havent figured this out.

I had a friend say HG, but I'm not sure its that. The plug wires and such looked fine when removed and there wasn't any oil or water in the spark plug hole.

Visual inspection of spark plug wires is insufficient. Doing an Ohm-test often is, too. Borrow a set or invest in new ones to cross them off the list.

What brand did you say your current wires are? And how many miles are on them?

I had the same issue and it was my 5 year old Accel's giving me grief. NGK Premiums solved my issue completely.
 
Visual inspection of spark plug wires is insufficient. Doing an Ohm-test often is, too. Borrow a set or invest in new ones to cross them off the list.

What brand did you say your current wires are? And how many miles are on them?

I had the same issue and it was my 5 year old Accel's giving me grief. NGK Premiums solved my issue completely.

NGKs on the car now.

Still have the issue.

Coil is missfiring, but only on one cylinder.
 
i had same prob in my 95 talon turbo and it was my fuel pump under the re back seat...

My fuel pump is the last possible thing I can think of it being at this time.

It's throwing a actual missfire code.

It can very well be the coil. Doesn't have to be 2 cylinders to misfire.

So, the coilpack can have individual missfires among them, because my idle has went to shit, it's beginning to studder and I have to DD this car.
 
My fuel pump is the last possible thing I can think of it being at this time.

It's throwing a actual missfire code.



So, the coilpack can have individual missfires among them, because my idle has went to shit, it's beginning to studder and I have to DD this car.

Couldnt see why not. I think the best thing that you could do is to try and track down a coil. That will let you know right then and there
 
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