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Studdering issue after 4k/5lbs

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Rajin

10+ Year Contributor
226
0
Jan 22, 2010
Cookeville, Tennessee
I'm having this issue, builds 5lbs of total boost then brick walls, all further accel is totally not happening, I'm going to clean my maf, I have yet to run a boost leak test, yet I'm about to hardpipe and reline the car as is. So if a boost leak is present I'll find it then. (Hopefully, my MBC isn't ran right, I need to tap my J Pipe)

Any other ideas, maybe Coil related, it's literally like a miss when I try to go into full boost, plugs and everything I've yet to check, it's a new issue.

16G, SAFC, Unrecirculated, FPR (no name, and I KNOW it's going bad), not checked on the fuel filter yet.

Any other ideas?
 
how old are you coils? have you tested them? manual says something about hooking them up to an ohmeter, i tried when mine was missing but i couldnt get a good reading for some reason. ended up being my wires.

but when i had my gs, the coil went bad and it ran horribly, but really didnt effect the idle, just when under load.
 
Couldnt see why not. I think the best thing that you could do is to try and track down a coil. That will let you know right then and there

I"ll swap them clear the codes and see if the code changes

how old are you coils? have you tested them? manual says something about hooking them up to an ohmeter, i tried when mine was missing but i couldnt get a good reading for some reason. ended up being my wires.

but when i had my gs, the coil went bad and it ran horribly, but really didnt effect the idle, just when under load.

okay thanks
 
On the way home tonight, after checked on everything, getting a Open loop working finally instead of a CLSD error.

The coil is the issue, and the fuel filter has seen better days. I actually seen a arc from the coilpack. So...I am sure it's no good.
 
^^It's really common for the throttle shaft seals to harden and then leak. Doesn't mean new throttle body, but it does mean a throttle "rebuild". Try hooking the boost leak tester to the throttle body and listening and feeling around the TB. It's pretty easy to hear it. Make sure to have the throttle plate completely open (as in, place something on the gas pedal to hold it down). Of course, make sure the car is OFF when you do this!!

Also, if you are still having the studder at 4k+, make sure that your base timing is spot on. Physically check it with a timing light using the VFAQ instructions.
 
I am currently having the same issues. New NGK 7 plugs (gap at 28), wires, FMIC, 16g, HKS BOV, stock boost. If i give it roughly about 50% throttle this also happens at 4k rpm, but if slowly accelerating its fine. I usually shift around 3k rpm and sometimes i can feel the car lose power and gain it back while accelerating regularly this varies in the rpm's.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You guys are running too rich. Running too rich on these cars can act just like failing ignition components.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
 
You guys are running too rich. Running too rich on these cars can act just like failing ignition components.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

Installed a new AF gauge and I tried to replicate it, the AF gauge shot straight to max rich. By upping the boost will this help?
 
As far as the Idling issue, sounds like it could be a bad ISC. But I'm having the same problem with my car. Replaced the plugs with NGKBPRE7's gapped at .028. Think I'm going to gap them down a little more too .026 and see if that helps a little.
 
What are you tuning with?

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

I have nothing to tune with. Planning to have it tuned this summer when I have enough funds.

Current mods:
FMIC
HKS BOV
16G
Turbo back 3in exhaust
MBC (not installed yet)

This is all that I think I need to reach my HP goals for right now.

Planning to get supply's needed for a leak test this weekend and see. But, lets say if there is no leaks detected can I turn up the boost to try to compensate for the richness?
 
Everything on mine is stock, nothing to tune with yet. And I don't think it's running too rich just from smelling the exhaust and such, I mean I could be wrong but if it is running rich then it's definately not running pig rich. I'll hook up my BLT at the TB and bust out with the soap and see what happens, I really think that's the culprit in my case. And also with the "mostly" stock setup I have I think I would be throwing a CEL if it was running rich enough to cause stutter right?
 
Everything on mine is stock, nothing to tune with yet. And I don't think it's running too rich just from smelling the exhaust and such, I mean I could be wrong but if it is running rich then it's definately not running pig rich. I'll hook up my BLT at the TB and bust out with the soap and see what happens, I really think that's the culprit in my case. And also with the "mostly" stock setup I have I think I would be throwing a CEL if it was running rich enough to cause stutter right?

Running rich isnt going to throw a cel.


Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
 
You guys are running too rich. Running too rich on these cars can act just like failing ignition components.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

If I am, then why is the car leaning out and dying at idle.

So rough of a idle that it actually dies. Sparks and restarts itself.

It's really becoming annoying.

I'm now annoyed fully, leaning out at idle for no reason. Fuel pump maybe?
 
Did another BLT and still leaking in the tb somewhere, when i turn the throttle the sound changes, is that normal? Or should I not be hearing any air at all? I put my adapter right on the throttle body elbow. Any suggestions?

Moving the spring on tb changes the leaking sound. I put a bunch of soapy water on it and no bubbles but I think it's leaking enough where it won't make bubbles. And ideas please?
 
Well I somewhat fixed my problem, It was 2 of the boots on the COP setup. I'm guessing even though they were on, spark was arcing out of the boots (2 of them were ripped about 1 1/2" or less up from the bottom). It still isn't perfect and I got a high idle problem, I'm thinkin colder plugs and BISS screw adjust and then later lifters and FMIC, then we'll see where i'm at. So problem solved!!!! Of course temp fix of electric tape and zip ties until I can find new boots or mix and match some from a local dealer or chkr or the zone.
 
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