Stroking/Boring the 420A

[Focker420]

oooh, you can actually just buy the manifold...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-9...2QQihZ016QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

k enough with the exhast manifold im sure its ba (bad ass) but im sure u can find a better one if u keep looking and for cheaper.

ok so meagasquirt and for the fpr?

Also anything else u can think of that i will need?

Ty
NATE

 

[XMasta19]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220504

Have fun

 

[Focker420]

So i pulled the engine and though i could do it without removing the tranny and just couldn't get the engine past the output shaft so ended up musclen the tranny out by hand and picked the engine out.

But while i was ripping the engine apart i notice the oil pick up tube was loose and scene the bracket the bolt was holding it to was broken off completely and was almost dangling there if the oil pickup tube let go would have been bad news but lucky i got to it first.

Just gotta wait till tomorrow to get a pulley puller to get the crankshaft pulley off shes pretty tight.
Was wondering sense i have the tranny out already what kinda upgrades can i get such as syncro, i know that i can upgrade to posi but whats else is out there? Also the fluid was looking like black metal flake paint. Looked like good paint but not tranny flui, I put royal purple sycnromesh fluid in and is only like 35 000 km old?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Was wondering sense i have the tranny out already what kinda upgrades can i get such as syncro, i know that i can upgrade to posi but whats else is out there?

Nothing... no synchros, no gears (unless you had gobs of money to spend, and had gears custom cut). Just keep your current tranny in good shape, and it'll last long.

By the way, get that Royal Purple out of there. Go to a Chrysler/Mitsu dealership and ask for the ATF+4 fluid for NV-T350 transmissions. Don't use any other fluid. Search around if you want to know why...

 

[Talon ESI-T]

NV-T350......its 350 Paul...

Paul is right, you cant upgrade anything other than the DIFF. There is no true posilock offered for our trans. You could weld the diff but then you could only place it on the track with a trailer.

To dissasemble the trans you would need a 20 ton press, another thing to consider.

Terry

 

[bullettdsm]

NV-T350

Quoted for importance. the crap is pricey but put NOTHING but the mitsu in there.

Also, you do have an option to go with taller gearing (3.94 I believe) from neons if you want to change out your tranny. You would basically use your bell housing but the other tranny. But you'll really want some power to use it.

I'd link up but I'm on my way to work. Just thought I would throw that out there.

MB

 

[Talon ESI-T]

Actually Mark, your half right. The trans is from a Neon but its a 3.55:1. The 3.94 is what the 2gnt comes with stock.

Terry

 

[VelocitàPaola]

NV-T350......its 350 Paul...

Sorry... I was really tired yesterday.

Nothing that going to sleep at 8pm and waking up at 7am can't fix though.

 

[bullettdsm]

! Yeah, leave it to Terry to be the numbers man, again. Thanks for keeping me honest. Yeah, got mixed up trying to type off quick reply before work. Oops. Sorry.

Thanks Terry,

MB

Hey, I may as well give you the link though:
http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=142

Just in case.

 

[Focker420]

K i got my head rebuild by a oldman "Racemaster", But the bearing caps on the intake side are way off the 2,3,4,5,6 are all mixed up but the exhaste side is ok. So do i put them back in the same way, or make them right, or what?

Ty Nate.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Put them back in the correct order. Make sure they're all facing the right way too.

 

[Focker420]

Put them back in the correct order. Make sure they're all facing the right way too.

Don't mean to question ## advise but...

Don't u think there will be high/low spots on the bearing caps when i put them back in there right position and will i have to break/ run in the cams again when i start it up. U know the procedure raise rpm up to 3000 and hold for 2 min then accel at wot to 4500 a few times and drive normal not to hard or baby it. ect

Haven't taken the caps off yet want to take pic to show the oldman.(he wouldn't believe me if i just told him.)

so when i take the caps off i will look for any scoring, but sould i emery cloth the caps or would that mess with the itergrity/ mateing surface with the head?

 

[bullettdsm]

K i got my head rebuild by a oldman "Racemaster", But the bearing caps on the intake side are way off the 2,3,4,5,6 are all mixed up but the exhaste side is ok. So do i put them back in the same way, or make them right, or what?

Ty Nate.

I read this and I think "Insto concern". Um, is that the way you got your head back after someone rebuilt it? Boy, that's pretty basic on any head that you (as a rebuilder) would be concerned about direction and order of caps. When done properly there is no break-in on the caps and cams. Just be sure that you have plenty of break-in lube in there. There are arrows and an order to follow when putting the caps back on. Were the caps torqued down in this oddball order when you got it? If you answerd yes to either of these questions I would be concerned about the rebuild. If you are not concerned then just pull off the caps, check for any dirt or grime, re-lube (I use white moly), put in order and direction, and torque back down (being sure that your cams are aligned properly).

Good luck,
MB

 

[Focker420]

I read this and I think "Insto concern". Um, is that the way you got your head back after someone rebuilt it? Boy, that's pretty basic on any head that you (as a rebuilder) would be concerned about direction and order of caps. When done properly there is no break-in on the caps and cams. Just be sure that you have plenty of break-in lube in there. There are arrows and an order to follow when putting the caps back on. Were the caps torqued down in this oddball order when you got it? If you answerd yes to either of these questions I would be concerned about the rebuild. If you are not concerned then just pull off the caps, check for any dirt or grime, re-lube (I use white moly), put in order and direction, and torque back down (being sure that your cams are aligned properly).

Good luck,
MB

Yes And Yes the head was rebuilt like that has been that way for like 8 months 15 000 km
and they were torqued down but i don't think it was with a torque wrench you know the old j men who just turn the air ratchet and then go click when they think its torqued but ya.
and u mean the assembly lube "luber plate."(white moly).

Hmm don't worried i will use a torque wrench when i reassemble, But goin to check the caps tonight and about the emery cloth should i slightly resurface the caps or just clean, lots of lube, and torque. And let the cams do the rest.

Also what do u mean about make sure my cams are aligned properly?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Also what do u mean about make sure my cams are aligned properly?

There are arrows on the cam caps... you need to make sure those arrows are facing the right direction (I believe the face the cam gears, but don't quote me on that).

 

[XMasta19]

Yes, and they are numbered and lettered as well...just pay attention and you can't mess it up


FYI: numbered 1-6 and lettered L or R

 

[Focker420]

Yes, and they are numbered and lettered as well...just pay attention and you can't mess it up

YA YA i know and the arrows are suppose to face the front of the engine towards the cam gears.

They all face the right way if that matters just not in the right order.

Ty