Stopping flash rust after removing rust

[4gfun]

I am using a vibratory parts tumbler to take care of rusty bolts on my car etc.

It has done a pretty good job, but like anything else on the car that I remove rust from via methods such as sanding, I get flash rust very quickly.

Right now, I am dealing with this on my oil pan bolts and turbo lines. I sanded them to remove all rust, but within no time they look worse than ever.

How can I stop flash rusting? I don't want to paint or powder coat the parts when I am done. I want shiny metal that stays that way.

Thanks

 

[ErikTande]

If you're in Virginia, you probably have a lot of humidity, even in the winter, which is going to make it difficult.

I would sand everything very smooth (180 grit at least), give it a bath in Metal Rescue, and as soon as as it's out and dry, clear coat it with something like this Rustoleum Metal Clear Coat.

I would test a small piece first and wait a couple days to make sure it holds, then do the rest of the parts you want to keep bare metal. Also, once it's out of the bath, don't handle anything with your bare skin, be sure to wear gloves to avoid getting any oils or moisture on the metal.

 

[4gfun]

If you're in Virginia, you probably have a lot of humidity, even in the winter, which is going to make it difficult.

I would sand everything very smooth (180 grit at least), give it a bath in Metal Rescue, and as soon as as it's out and dry, clear coat it with something like this Rustoleum Metal Clear Coat.

I would test a small piece first and wait a couple days to make sure it holds, then do the rest of the parts you want to keep bare metal. Also, once it's out of the bath, don't handle anything with your bare skin, be sure to wear gloves to avoid getting any oils or moisture on the metal.

Thank you VERY much for this! I never thought of the clear coat angle either. Does it have to be "metal clear coat"? I have rustoleum high temp engine clear coat laying around?

All in all, I think this will work!

Again Thanks!

 

[ErikTande]

Yeah, Rustoleum high temp engine clear should be fine. Just test it out and wait a few days to make sure the rust is going to stay off before you do a ton of work on the other parts.

 

[4gfun]

Yeah, Rustoleum high temp engine clear should be fine. Just test it out and wait a few days to make sure the rust is going to stay off before you do a ton of work on the other parts.

Well thank you Erik. I agree with that. Slow and steady wins the race sometimes.

 

[daren_p]

The best solution would be to take them to a local metal plating place & have them zinc plated, etc (like how they come new from Mitsu). If you find a place that doesn't have a min order, its typically not too expensive.

 

[4gfun]

The best solution would be to take them to a local metal plating place & have them zinc plated, etc (like how they come new from Mitsu). If you find a place that doesn't have a min order, its typically not too expensive.

So they were initially Zinc plated. This helps.

Thanks

 

[crimsondragon]

If you're clever/Macgyver type, look up home made zinc plating. Plenty of people have copper plated home made bullets using a coffee maker, plastic tupperware bin, speaker wire, drain cleaner, and power source.

Electroplating with Zinc (for under $10) | Offlogic's Weblog

 

[4gfun]

If you're clever/Macgyver type, look up home made zinc plating. Plenty of people have copper plated home made bullets using a coffee maker, plastic tupperware bin, speaker wire, drain cleaner, and power source.

Electroplating with Zinc (for under $10) | Offlogic's Weblog

I am the burnt out washed out type , but thanks for the link. I am reading it now.