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1G Stock block 1g fp black.... Want to pick your brains

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Omg 15 degrees knock retard. Your lucky you didnt throw a rod through the block. You need to log raw knock count. It was prob like 40 counts.
What I can't figure out is, spark plugs are perfect, Pistons are spotless.... I'm getting weird knock like low rpm, light throttle. I think if this was all real knock my engine would of been damaged a lot worse then it was. The head gasket had no signs of burning. nothing!
 
How old is the knock sensor?
Also why are you running so rich? 10.2 on meth is waayy to rich. You must be shooting black clouds out the back of your car. 11.1-11.5 93 pump and 12-12.5 on meth. Maybe all the knock is from being way too rich
 
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You know what man, it's possible. Like is said I haven't been running on the ragged edge tuning wise as I'm running meth and could technically run ALOT leaner. But rich knock can still cause elevated cylinder pressure yes? I covered every angle man, besides being an expert tuner. Knock sensor is brand new. The more I read the more I'm learning how prehistoric these knock systems are and a lot of people are removing them.

As to why I'm running rich, I've been having difficult getting my wot afr setup. When I get my idle dialed in , the motor wants 52 global, but I'm super rich wot. If I make global 57 I'm in the sweet spot wot but my idle is off. So I kept it at 52 and lowered all the numbers on my speed density table but it didn't really change much. Still in the 10s. Thats were I ended.
 
Don't listen to this guy^^^^. Do not run your motor that lean. I would shoot for the 11.0-11.5:1 range max with your injection. You are not gaining anything going that much leaner and are leaving nothing on the table but a more reliable tune. Even if it is in the 10's as long as it is pulling cleanly it is running fine. If it is not cutting in and out and bucking at you there is not a problem. You are in pump gas and remember that. Do not rely on the methonal for fueling. Use it for cooling only. I still don't understand why everyone thinks that is okay. I guess they have not broken enough parts to know better.
 
I wasnt trying or planning to run on the edge tuning wise with meth, I was just using like you said for cooling. Im going to be finishing this bi*** tmrw and see if the head gasket worked out ok.

Well car started, gotta boost leak test her again because I'm def getting leaks. The oem paper throttle body gaskets don't seal for shit without some kind of sealant. Can't tell if she's fixed yet. Will find out tmrw

12:1 is lean on meth? Ok
Car is back boys.....running great. Changed the thermostat and im running 200....doesnt move a muscle. Hitting 30lbs but lowered the timing, car rips!
 
Very nice. Post up a log when you got a chance. No more knock i hope. Also remember to log raw knock count.
You know what man, I don't see raw knock in the list when I check. I dropped the timing across the board to 16 degrees. Still a tiny bit of knock retard. This is at 32 psi so, I'm going to keep lowering the timing until all knock is gone and go from there. I'm almost totaled my car last night . Missed two f***ing deer by a foot. Would of destroyed my intercooler for sure. Also, I think my higher than normal temps were caused by air in the system because of the thermostat. Now my temp don't move at all.
 
If you go to captured items there should be a raw value section in the middle(i believe thats right). Remember knock retard is like 1 degree for 4 counts or something. Anything above .4 you need to watch. Air deff causes many problems in the cooling system. Did you go with a mls gasket or composite?
 
I went with the oem composite with arps torqued to 95. Ran the car through a few heat cycles and retorqued the bolts. Cars running great, I installed a stock alternator but my volts are still dropping at wot. I don't think this is accurate. Even at idle my dsmlink is off by 1 volt when testing with a good voltmeter. I think I may be getting some rich knock but I'm going to lower the timing until the knock goes away.

If you go to captured items there should be a raw value section in the middle(i believe thats right). Remember knock retard is like 1 degree for 4 counts or something. Anything above .4 you need to watch. Air deff causes many problems in the cooling system. Did you go with a mls gasket or composite?
Headgasket #2 gone... pushing coolant. Done for the season boys. This motor does not like boost past 30 psi...... she did amazing at 27 with loads of timing spraying meth. The minute I increase boost past 30 I always run in to trouble. Motor never ran lean, plugs are perfect.... just think the surfaces need machining for that much boost. Block is ready for assembly. I'm going to pull the motor wed!
 
I think I might have a small crack in the head. The car is fine Untill I really push it. It's ok, it was just an experiment. I'm going to be pulling the motor so I can clean up the bay anyway. It's very strange man. Did pulls all day 1-4 ..... was running great. I think I was pushing coolant ..... which led to me blowing the head gasket. The car doesn't smoke at all or overheat. Plugs look wonderful. The same thing happened..... doing pulls then suddenly the car knocks like crazy and that's it. I think what was happening was I was pushing a little coolant and it causes it to get worse and worse until it just gives. The head is suspect , block is mint
 
Are you sure there Is not a cracked cylinder wall?
 
Are you sure there Is not a cracked cylinder wall?
I dont think its a cracked cylinder, the shortblock looked immaculate, pistons were spotless. The car isnt even overheating or smoking, The head looks suspicious to me, I will find out soon enough. I ordered everything i need for the new motor. I will be running wiseco hd pistons with manley turbo tuff rods with all oem timing, oil and cooling parts
 
The best thing now is you can build your engine now, and have some fun and some insurrance now your engine can hold up, what compression you gonna run.
 
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