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Stock 2G Turbo Noise

iloveboost

Proven Member
46
1
Jul 25, 2014
Vacaville, California
Hi, I am brand new to this forum and recently purchased a 1999 GST Spyder. The car is complete stock for the moment. I am planning on going through everything before I mod it. I am mechanically inclined but this is my first tuner car and turbo car. Worked primarily on gen 3 Camaros and Harleys. Trying to get my kid into cars so we thought we would try a DSM and build it out a little. I have read many of the mod sections and are planning on going through the engine and replacing timing belt, plugs wires and other recommended items.

The one thing I noticed with the car that I was not sure of was when the car and turbo are cold, the turbo makes a screeching noise. It is considerably louder than the normal turbo whine when the car is warmed up and under normal operation. Is it normal to have the turbo sound this way cold or could I possibly have an issue with the turbo?
 

bryanwheat

DSM Wiseman
7,110
177
Aug 16, 2004
Columbia, Missouri
Check for shaft play, turbo could be shot

Definitely do this, a turbo will start to whine when the engine is cold when it starts to get excessive play. Sounds like you might be in for a new turbo in the near future.
 

iloveboost

Proven Member
46
1
Jul 25, 2014
Vacaville, California
Perfect time to upgrade if it is bad imo

Yeah, I am planning on upgrading in the near future. I am shooting for about 350hp at the wheels. I do live in CA though so I was thinking about a big T28 but I have come to the conclusion that the 16g is the best bang for the buck. Not sure how the 16g will work for my visual on smog. Anyone have any experience with that? Will the 16g give me problems? I was planning on running an Injen filter with a Carb sticker. I also have seen a couple performance manifolds that look basically stock. I was going to run a full turbo back exhaust with no CAT and just keep the old exhaust to swap for smog (looks like a pretty easy swap). I guess people out here can get "hood popped" by the cops out here and then that involves a large fine and an inspection. I am trying to keep it sleeper stock looking as possible and I think 350hp at the wheels is attainable without tearing the motor down and beefing up all the internals. I just want to have enough power to keep up with the newer American V8s in the 400 hp range (I must say that having been an American muscle car enthusiast for my whole life that the fact people are getting 1000 hp out of the 4G63T is freaking amazing. I still don't know if I can promote 4 cylinder engines but I guess with boost anything is possible.)
 

2gmitsueclipse

DSM Wiseman
2,363
700
Jul 13, 2005
Auburn Hills, Michigan
If you decide to go with a 16g, consider more than just merely the cost of the turbo. While it is technically a bolt-on for a 2g, you will need to get a install kit. This will include the needed feed lines and drain. Also, the compressor exit is in a different orientation that the stock turbo, so a j-pipe will be needed.
 

synthetek

DSM Wiseman
1,658
80
Dec 13, 2005
La palma, California
Will the 16g give me problems? I was planning on running an Injen filter with a Carb sticker.

They would probably hassle you more for the injen intake , even with a carb sticker than they would for a 16g. On one of my cars I have a 16g with stock 2g manifold with the heat shields on and the j-pipe painted flat black and a stock intake. They didn't even notice , go in there with a shiny intake and they are going to start looking at other things.
 

bryanwheat

DSM Wiseman
7,110
177
Aug 16, 2004
Columbia, Missouri
For the price of a 16g along with the install parts i would just go with the big t28 myself, especially living in California. The 16g will make a little more power, but the t28 looks stock, and won't require any extra's to install. They are both about the same price also.
 

2slow4now

Proven Member
1,312
37
Nov 20, 2008
somerset, Kentucky
I would check that turbo out for play. Don't want it to crap out and send metal to the engine.

You could send your t25 in and have it converted to a t28. That might be cheaper than buying a new one.
 

iloveboost

Proven Member
46
1
Jul 25, 2014
Vacaville, California
I would check that turbo out for play. Don't want it to crap out and send metal to the engine.

You could send your t25 in and have it converted to a t28. That might be cheaper than buying a new one.

I think this is what I may do. I was looking to match it up with an FP Manifold, VLS Intercooler, 3" Turbo back, O2 Housing, Cold Air Intake, BOV, 255LPH, 550/560 injectors, fuel pressure regulator, MBC and a tune. I know the big t28 says good to 360HP but I am not sure if that is at the crank or at the wheels. Will this set up get me to 300 - 360 at the wheels? Am I missing anything?[DOUBLEPOST=1410934037][/DOUBLEPOST]
They would probably hassle you more for the injen intake , even with a carb sticker than they would for a 16g. On one of my cars I have a 16g with stock 2g manifold with the heat shields on and the j-pipe painted flat black and a stock intake. They didn't even notice , go in there with a shiny intake and they are going to start looking at other things.
Yeah. I might just swap in the OEM air box for when I smog. Looks easy enough. I just figured if I am running a cold air intake and I get pulled over that the CARB sticker might help. I do agree that it is in my favor to have things look as stock as possible. Is there another cold air set up that is less flashy but still effective? It is not like the Injen is cheap either.
 

GoodbyeSTI

Proven Member
87
3
Oct 3, 2013
Billings, Montana
I would defiantly put a wideband on that list...and not sure on what your meaning by a tune? safc or a maf translator would be cheaper route to help tune with...
 

Sjd6795

Proven Member
608
118
May 14, 2014
Wilsonville, Oregon
Yea boost gauge, wideband, safc2 should be the first things you buy. I've ran the maf translator on my car for a few weeks before getting my safc2 and it's hard to get a efficient tune with.

Also this is bench racing and it's not allowed on these forums.

I know the big t28 says good to 360HP but I am not sure if that is at the crank or at the wheels. Will this set up get me to 300 - 360 at the wheels?.
 

iloveboost

Proven Member
46
1
Jul 25, 2014
Vacaville, California
Yea boost gauge, wideband, safc2 should be the first things you buy. I've ran the maf translator on my car for a few weeks before getting my safc2 and it's hard to get a efficient tune with.

Also this is bench racing and it's not allowed on these forums.

So wideband and boost gauge are on the list too. I have a buddy with a 700hp Neon that is selling me a wideband and also is going to help me with the tune. I think he said I need a cable to connect my computer to the car and he has DSM tune software.

Also, excuse my ignorance but what is bench racing?[DOUBLEPOST=1410970117][/DOUBLEPOST]
So wideband and boost gauge are on the list too. I have a buddy with a 700hp Neon that is selling me a wideband and also is going to help me with the tune. I think he said I need a cable to connect my computer to the car and he has DSM tune software.

Also, excuse my ignorance but what is bench racing?

Ok, I looked up bench racing. That is not what I am trying to do. I am trying to hit a target output range, build a parts list, and figure out a cost. So in selecting a turbo with a certain HP rating I am trying to determine if the supporting parts/modifications will achieve that output. I did need to know if the turbo specs are for wheel hp or crank hp. If they wont support that figure then I need to possible consider alternative components, but again, my goal is to look as stock as possible and have an easy swap back to stock parts for SMOG II.

I appreciate all of your help and respect the wisdom that you guys have. I wouldn't be able to do this without you I know I am coming in about 15 - 20 years later on this deal so I apologies if I am annoying you guys in any way. I know you have probably gone through this with people a million times. I have been trying to get as much info from reading post as I can and my head is swimming. My goal is not to peel knowledge from you guys and split. I hope to build a great car, continue to improve it and maybe be a contributing member some day.
 
Last edited:

crash89

Proven Member
3,533
159
Mar 5, 2008
Janesville, Wisconsin
Bench racing is saying, for example, I have x parts how much power do you think I make? Or what 1/4 mile times do you think Ill run? Noone can tell you these things as every engine is different. You could take the same parts on two different DSMs and they could produce totally different numbers.

On another note, I used to live in Vacaville! You out at Travis then I assume? You really dont need that shiny Ingen intake. I made well over 300 wheel with the stock intake and bolt ons. However I had out of state plates and didnt have to partake in the loverly smog checks. What do you mean your friend has DSM tune software? If he just has say EcmLink on his laptop thats going to do you no good since you need the socket and chip in your ecu to actually be any effect.

Now if he has an SAFC or something hes letting you use that would work. Also being you have a 99 you have what is called the reflashable black box ecu. Now with that you could use a Tactrix cable (unsure of the upgrade theyre at now, used to be 2.0) and Ecuflash and Evoscan and could tune that way.

Got any pics!?! :thumb:
 

iloveboost

Proven Member
46
1
Jul 25, 2014
Vacaville, California
Bench racing is saying, for example, I have x parts how much power do you think I make? Or what 1/4 mile times do you think Ill run? Noone can tell you these things as every engine is different. You could take the same parts on two different DSMs and they could produce totally different numbers.

On another note, I used to live in Vacaville! You out at Travis then I assume? You really dont need that shiny Ingen intake. I made well over 300 wheel with the stock intake and bolt ons. However I had out of state plates and didnt have to partake in the loverly smog checks. What do you mean your friend has DSM tune software? If he just has say EcmLink on his laptop thats going to do you no good since you need the socket and chip in your ecu to actually be any effect.

Now if he has an SAFC or something hes letting you use that would work. Also being you have a 99 you have what is called the reflashable black box ecu. Now with that you could use a Tactrix cable (unsure of the upgrade theyre at now, used to be 2.0) and Ecuflash and Evoscan and could tune that way.

Got any pics!?! :thumb:

No, i am not military. Just moved to Vacaville a while ago before the housing bubble because houses were cheap out here. I believe what my friend was referring too was the Tactrix cable. I will call him and ask.

I don't have many pics yet, she was just freshly painted when I bought her.
 

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Cox Abele

Proven Member
485
50
Jul 4, 2010
Roanoke, Virginia
Something to consider for maintaining the factory appearance look would be keeping the factory intake, but removing the silencers from inside the fender, using a drop in K&N and removing the dump tube from inside the intake.

Here are two How-To's:

http://www.tgilmore.com/talon/dumptube.html
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/bovdump.htm

Since you are new to the DSM community, one of the best possible sites for you to bookmark is http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html. There is a substantial amount of tech there that is tried and true.
 

iloveboost

Proven Member
46
1
Jul 25, 2014
Vacaville, California
Or you can use 14b :D. It might be good enough power you want. Remember take a baby step before you go hard.
I am considering doing the work in a few stages. I want to make sure the components I get in each stage will still work with each consecutive stage. That is one of the reasons why I liked the T28 over the other turbos because it will work with the same components as the T25. I would be happy to maybe even stay with the T25 but I think it is going to need a rebuild soon so the T28 seemed like the logical choice is pulling a little extra power out of the same style housing.

I was thinking (after some maintenance) that I would make some mods to the air intake, get a 3" turbo back, an MBC, a cheap temp ebay 30psi BOV (which I would change to higher quality once I figure out the new turbo and intercooler) and then turn the boost up while using the wideband.

Stage II would be turbo, manifold, intercooler (& compatible BOV), fuel system, flash tune, etc...

I would pull the turbo and do a rebuild kit with a 360 thrust bearing but considering the time and money it is probably worth it to send it to FP for the upgrade because they know what they are doing. I am thinking about tracking down a second T25 that I can tear apart and familiarize my self with it.

For the maintenance I need to do timing belt replacement because I have no idea what the condition of mine is. I got the car with only 108K on it but it is best not to take any chances. I have seen some "high performance" high strength time belts on Extreme PSI from Gready, HKS, Cosworth, etc.... Are they really better than the OEM and does anyone have a preference on the belts? I also saw a BLE Solid Tensioner, is that worth the investment?

I probably wont do the balance shaft eliminator kit unless I end up pulling the motor sometime later down the road.
 

stantheman

Probationary Member
17
0
Jan 29, 2016
sacramento, California
Nice very helpful I have been searching for a thread like this I am in the same boat looking to get about 300 to 350 hp my t 25 turbo went out and I live I sacramento ca so I am worried about smog also don't want to get to crazy still want it to be descent fun car so thinking t 28
 
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