STM battery relocation kit

[Clutch GSX]

So I bought the STM battery relocation kit (which came with no instructions) and I’ve been researching relocation kits all day and every post I read, I get more confused. Can someone please help me and anyone else who is not an electrical engineer figure out the whole thing? I'm sur eit's not too difficult but I can't get a straight answer anywhere. I’ll make a correct write up/diagram that everyone can use from now on. We can get it in the tech section so all the right info is in one, easy to find place. The VFAQ isn’t working anymore, the taboo speed shop article no longer works, and one of the write ups in the tech section was merged with a million other posts and the other has no pictures or diagrams so I think this is needed. I’m willing to make an easy to understand write up but I need to know how to do it first. Let’s start with the STM kit and we can go from there. P.S. this is for a 2G but I’m sure the 1G isn’t too different.

The STM kit is set up as follows (Also see picture): Fuse box/Alternator wires (4 white wires) and starter wire (Black w/ red stripe) – 1 terminal breaker - 4 gauge wire - 1 terminal breaker – 4 gauge wire - pos terminal on battery - Negative terminal on battery – ground. The STM kit only includes one 17’ section of red 4 gauge wire and 3’ of black 4 gauge wire along with the 2 breakers and some ring terminals.

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*Here I have the starter ground to the firewall which is a mistake. I believe the starter grounds itself. Correct me if I'm wrong*

I’ve read that you need distribution blocks (2 or 3) and 100amp fuses. Are these needed or just extra? I’ve read that you should ground different things like the engine and exhaust. I’ve read that if you have an after market stereo and amp you need to run wires from your battery to the head unit. Some people rewire their alternators at the same time, is this a good idea? I also read about killswitches and where they should be added. It’s all very confusing. If anyone could clear any of this up that would be awesome. Thanks!

 

[snowborder714]

Check this out.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/350806-2g-battery-relocation.html#post151999682

 

[Project2G]

I have the same STM kit. I ended up just using one breaker.

 

[Clutch GSX]

Yeah I just saw that thread. That diagram is waaay different than the STM Kit. What are your thoughts on each? What are the benefits of doing it that way as opposed to the STM kit? I'm wondering if I should just sell the STM kit and make my own. I do plan on having a decent audio set up down the road if that matters.

I have the same STM kit. I ended up just using one breaker.

So you just used the bottom breaker in the picture and ran it straight to the battery? and it works fine?

 

[Project2G]

Yeah I just saw that thread. That diagram is waaay different than the STM Kit. What are your thoughts on each? What are the benefits of doing it that way as opposed to the STM kit? I'm wondering if I should just sell the STM kit and make my own. I do plan on having a decent audio set up down the road if that matters.



So you just used the bottom breaker in the picture and ran it straight to the battery? and it works fine?

Correct. But I might be putting the other one on soon because I picked up a Moroso kill switch.

 

[Clutch GSX]

Correct. But I might be putting the other one on soon because I picked up a Moroso kill switch.

Interesting. I've heard that you need to have the breaker witin 18" of the positive battery terminal. You running aftermarket amp or anything? Whats your HP?

 

[snowborder714]

Yeah I just saw that thread. That diagram is waaay different than the STM Kit. What are your thoughts on each? What are the benefits of doing it that way as opposed to the STM kit? I'm wondering if I should just sell the STM kit and make my own. I do plan on having a decent audio set up down the road if that matters.

I was referring to the diagram in post #4 (messed up the above link...now fixed). This one is much different because of the use of a kill switch, as Project2g mentioned.

For your diagram, I don't see the need for 2 breakers, but instead I'd swap out a breaker for an inline ANL fuse. Also, I'm guessing the breaker closest to the fuse box should be a distribution block so you can collect everything together.

Also, you do need to ground the starter.

 

[Clutch GSX]

I was referring to the diagram in post #4 (messed up the above link...now fixed). This one is much different because of the use of a kill switch, as Project2g mentioned.

For your diagram, I don't see the need for 2 breakers, but instead I'd swap out a breaker for an inline ANL fuse. Also, I'm guessing the breaker closest to the fuse box should be a distribution block so you can collect everything together.

Also, you do need to ground the starter.

No the STM kit comes with 2 breakers and no distribution block. So should I get a distribution block and replace the engine bay breaker with it? Why should I use a fuse instead of a breaker? Aren't they essentially the same thing but the fuse you have to replace and the breaker you can just switch back on when it trips? Is the starter grounded stock? I couldn't see it. Is 4ga good enough for all these wires? Thats what came with the kit but your diagram has 1/0ga

 

[snowborder714]

Well, you're going to try and combine the battery power wire, the starter power wire, and the fuse box wires and the best way to do this is with a distribution block. Having that many wires on a breaker would be hard.

Reason behind using fuse and breaker combo.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151770687-post71.html

The starter is grounded stock. Look for a line on the battery from a starter bolt.

 

[Clutch GSX]

Well, you're going to try and combine the battery power wire, the starter power wire, and the fuse box wires and the best way to do this is with a distribution block. Having that many wires on a breaker would be hard.

Reason behind using fuse and breaker combo.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151770687-post71.html

The starter is grounded stock. Look for a line on the battery from a starter bolt.

So pretty much the STM kit is crap and I should make my own is what you're saying?

I remember now that the starter bolt is grounded. The link you gave doesn't say why to use both a fuse and breaker, it just says that you should. It doesn't make any sense to me since they are the same thing.

Any thoughts on the 4ga wire? Some say anything over 4 is overkill and some go with 1/0ga. I have no idea.

 

[snowborder714]

I'm not saying it's crap at all. You just need to consider if you ever want to put a kill switch in. If all you're doing is moving it, then it should be fine with a few small changes.

I'm pretty sure I discussed the reason with twicks69 after he posted it and what he said made sense, but I don't have that conversation saved that I know of.

As far as wire size, I'm all for the opinion that bigger is better, especially if you're going to be running a big load through it. Depending on how big of a system you plan on running, I'd say the 4 ga. will probably be too small.

 

[Clutch GSX]

I'm not saying it's crap at all. You just need to consider if you ever want to put a kill switch in. If all you're doing is moving it, then it should be fine with a few small changes.

I'm pretty sure I discussed the reason with twicks69 after he posted it and what he said made sense, but I don't have that conversation saved that I know of.

As far as wire size, I'm all for the opinion that bigger is better, especially if you're going to be running a big load through it. Depending on how big of a system you plan on running, I'd say the 4 ga. will probably be too small.

Oh ok I see it now. Your link only showed that one post thats why. I dont plan on putting in a killswitch so does that mean a distribution block isn't needed?

You said it would be "hard" to put on the starter, alternator, and positive battery wires on a breaker. Does that mean its going to mess something up/run poorly/start a fire or just physically there wont be enough room on the bolt to hook them all up?

I plan to have a 900W amp to power all 4 speakers and a 10" sub. The Voltage from the alternator is constant and the stock wiring is 4ga, shouldn't 4ga more enough? I can see the wiring after the amplifier needing to be bigger since the power source is greater but the power source from the battery/alternator hasn't been changed and adding a bigger wire just increases resistance.

 

[snowborder714]

A distribution block has nothing to do with a kill switch. It would just make it easier to combine all the wires.

It might be physically hard to put those 3 lugs on the same terminal. I'd test fit it before to make sure though.

I don't know audio systems at all, so I can't recommend a specific wire size.

 

[Project2G]

I dont plan on putting in a killswitch

Just an fyi. If you plan to race at any track it's against the rules to race without a battery kill switch when the battery has been relocated to the trunk.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/234924-correct-way-wire-battery-cutoff-switch.html

 

[Clutch GSX]

Yeah, its pretty much a street car but I guess it would be nice to have the option to take it to a drag strip. But I certainly don't want to cut a hole in my body to have an external killswitch.

So here's what Ive got so far. Can anyone help me out with the ?

Where does the power wire from the battery go to power the stereo system? The headunit or amp or both?

And if anything is wrong let me know.

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