Still getting knock...I think

[whitetiger777]

To start off with I guess I will list the mods.
6-bolt swap
Evo III 16G turbo
Frount mount intercooler
Walbro 190 fuel pump
FIC 650 cc injector
3" MAF
MAFT v2.02
Running at about 15 to 20 psi

Readings
O2v aprox .091 or .91 can't remember at the moment
short trim aprox -5 under constant speed
long trim 0 all the time
I believe I have mid tuned properly
and timming at about 38 degrees under hard acceleration

I find that when I shift I sometimes get a knocking sound. I only seem to get it when I shift. Mostly when down shifting into 2nd while deaccelerating, and then when I shift under hard acceleration. Usualy it's just a singer knock, but sometimes I get a quick double knock, but that seems to bet he only time I hear it. I thought that maybe I'm only hearing it when I shift because the car is so load when it is accelerating, or that something might be hitting up against the firewall, but I cant think of what.
Any ideas would be helpfull. However as I was writting this I had to wonder if perhaps the fuel pump I have is no longer sufitient, do I need to step up to a 225?

 

[playitlouddsm]

Ok so your ltft lo and ltft mid are both at 0? If you are getting 38 timming at WOT then at what rpm does this occur? 38 for timming seems way too high, most tuners on here tune for around 20. You say you are hearing a knocking sound......does your cel blink at all? Once your car reads 5 degrees of knock the cel will come on. Since you are noticing this when shifting........i might be going out on a limb here but, what condition are your motor mounts in? Does it only do this under hard acceleration or all the time?

 

[whitetiger777]

Ok so your ltft lo and ltft mid are both at 0? If you are getting 38 timming at WOT then at what rpm does this occur? 38 for timming seems way too high, most tuners on here tune for around 20. You say you are hearing a knocking sound......does your cel blink at all? Once your car reads 5 degrees of knock the cel will come on. Since you are noticing this when shifting........i might be going out on a limb here but, what condition are your motor mounts in? Does it only do this under hard acceleration or all the time?

Ok, what is the cel? is that one the leds on the maft? Or is that the check engine light? I'm not sure what condition the motor mounts are in, but I'm not quite sure what I would be looking for when checking them. As far as I know there was no visible deterioration. I have removed the balence shaft though. The knock happens mosty under hard acceloration, but will happen ever so often under normal acceloration, and almost always when down shifting into second.

 

[whitetiger777]

Ok, I finaly got the chance to drive the car during the day again so I could see my logger and discovered that it seems that even under constant speed I'm sitting at 30 degrees of timming, and when I accelorate it goes up to 38. My other numbers are just fine, so how do I get my timming back down?

 

[alexg1323]

CEL- means the check engine light. Playitlouddsm just isnt reading your post or something WTF because your check engine light will not flash at you with 5 counts of knock unless you had dsmlink set up in your car which comes with an option for CEL activated by knock default set to 5 counts. First off what PSI are you running at, and are you using a stock intercooler. You need a better intercooler if so. The stock o2 sensor isnt going to tell you much, if it starts droping voltage its an indication that the AFR is going a little leaner thats about it. My guess is that your MAF is not calibrated properly, though if what your trying to say is correct then sounds like you have the base set up right. Your problem is in the timing 38* is WAY to much for WOT max rpm. Should top out at 18 or so with no knock. Your maf translator may be making your ecu want to add excessive timing

 

[whitetiger777]

Ok, I'm running at about 18 psi although it does creep up to 20 ever so often especialy when shifting. I am running a frount mount intercooler I believe it is just a street intercooler and not a race, so I think it is a 3 core or something like that. As fot the MAFT being off, I completely agree with you. It seems like my idol knob doesn't do anything, and acualy the only thing that does seem to have an effect is the AUX knob, and for some reason the car will only run somewhat right when it is set at zero. I have 650 cc injectors, and that is not even close to the recomemeded starting set up.
I understand that I'm am supose to have the trims at as close to zero as posible when cruising, and now I know that I need to timing to be around 18 degrees, and that for mid you accelorat untill the car goes into a close loop, and then adjust after that. Are there any other numbers I should be aware of?
Also it seems like either I alway magicaly set up the mid right on the first try, or I'm having problems getting the car to go into a closed loop.