1G Starting Problem

[TGST90]

I having a hard time starting my car sometimes. I checked starter and battery..both are fine, so I think it's my alternator. Sometimes the only way I can start it either disconnect and reconnect the battery or pop the clutch on a roll..

 

[Rob32401]

What does it do when it won't start? Just crank over?

 

[rlacasse1]

If just disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will get it to start then you more than likely just need to clean the crap out of your cables and terminals and make sure that they are connecting good.

 

[saechao04]

I agree with rlacasse1, make sure your battery terminals are clean and make sure they are nice and tight. If that doesn't solve the problem, check for ground, spark and fuel. Also:

- CPS: Crank position sensor test: same as cam angle sensor except pin 2 is blue/white and it's crank voltage is 0.4-4.0V while idling is 1.5-2.5V

- ECU test: Check if caps inside are leaking or rotten egg smell and/or swap with known good one. Troubleshooting fried ECU components

- Spark plugs: Appearance: Spark Plug Diagnosis, FAQ: Spark Plug FAQ. Test by removing each plug, reattaching the spark plug cable, then (wearing rubber gloves and insulated shoes (don't stand in water)) hold the plug's outer electrode (or threads) against the head (ground) while cranking engine. Make sure there is spark and it's not weak. When done also check plug for cracked insulation or damaged electrodes.

- Spark plug cable test: Measure resistance of each end to end while bending them all over (to check for an open). Resistance should be 22k ohms max on a 2g (11k on 1g). If engine idles, wearing rubber gloves and insulated shoes (don't stand in water) you may first want to disconnect, one at a time, each of the spark plug cables while engine is idling. If the engine performance does not change, check that cables resistance and the spark plug itself. You can also check for spark jumping to ground from cable or coil by watching them in the dark while racing engine.

- Filter capacitor: The filter capacitor sharpens the coil's input pulse and reduces input pulse ringing both of which enhance the coil's output. It also reduces electrical static generated by the coil and alternator on the +12v line. It rarely fails but has been known to happen. Sometimes it intermittently fails (partially shorts) with temperature which can severely affect spark. Other times it just gets old and loses it's capacitance which usually shows up as increased static in the radio. The filter capacitor is a small cylindrical tin can bolted to intake manifold driver's side with 1 wire coming out of it. You can check it by just unplugging it and noticing effect (especially if it is failing with temperature).

compiled by luv2rallye

 

[TGST90]

What does it do when it won't start? Just crank over?

It won't do nothing, no crank or anything. u just hear the fuel pump turning on

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Here's a good place to start: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

 

[TGST90]

I agree with rlacasse1, make sure your battery terminals are clean and make sure they are nice and tight. If that doesn't solve the problem, check for ground, spark and fuel. Also:

- CPS: Crank position sensor test: same as cam angle sensor except pin 2 is blue/white and it's crank voltage is 0.4-4.0V while idling is 1.5-2.5V

- ECU test: Check if caps inside are leaking or rotten egg smell and/or swap with known good one. Troubleshooting fried ECU components

- Spark plugs: Appearance: Spark Plug Diagnosis, FAQ: Spark Plug FAQ. Test by removing each plug, reattaching the spark plug cable, then (wearing rubber gloves and insulated shoes (don't stand in water)) hold the plug's outer electrode (or threads) against the head (ground) while cranking engine. Make sure there is spark and it's not weak. When done also check plug for cracked insulation or damaged electrodes.

- Spark plug cable test: Measure resistance of each end to end while bending them all over (to check for an open). Resistance should be 22k ohms max on a 2g (11k on 1g). If engine idles, wearing rubber gloves and insulated shoes (don't stand in water) you may first want to disconnect, one at a time, each of the spark plug cables while engine is idling. If the engine performance does not change, check that cables resistance and the spark plug itself. You can also check for spark jumping to ground from cable or coil by watching them in the dark while racing engine.

- Filter capacitor: The filter capacitor sharpens the coil's input pulse and reduces input pulse ringing both of which enhance the coil's output. It also reduces electrical static generated by the coil and alternator on the +12v line. It rarely fails but has been known to happen. Sometimes it intermittently fails (partially shorts) with temperature which can severely affect spark. Other times it just gets old and loses it's capacitance which usually shows up as increased static in the radio. The filter capacitor is a small cylindrical tin can bolted to intake manifold driver's side with 1 wire coming out of it. You can check it by just unplugging it and noticing effect (especially if it is failing with temperature).

compiled by luv2rallye

I checked ECU, I recently changed my spark plugs with bosch ones. I haven't changed my spark plug wires though.

 

[rlacasse1]

Well, your spark plug wires are not going to prevent your car from turning over.

If it starts when you push start it then you obviously have an issue with getting power from the battery to the starter. And since you said that it will start if you go out and remove the battery cables and put them back on that is going to be the issue. You have either extremely dirty terminals and cables, or just loose cables. Either way, clean them up, both the terminals and the battery. And they tighten them down nice and snug. And more than likely your issue will go away.

 

[TGST90]

Can anyone tell or give me a 1g GST engine harness diagram, please

 

[Usatuff]

Imageshack - 1gdsmengineharness.jpg

 

[2GFWDbeast]

http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/text-index.htm hopefully this helps ya it gives a run down of everything thing in a 1g

 

[TGST90]

Ok, I started disconnecting my engine harness and I wanted to make sure, I only have the engine harness but I don't know if I also need another harness wiring (headlights, turn signal, ect). If my question makes any sense

 

[Usatuff]

Well technically there is more than 1 harness in every car, well most. Our cars have 2 in the bay. 1 harness goes from the ECU and hooks to all of the engine and it's components. The 2nd goes to the driver side firewall and goes to the fuse box in the car and in the bay. That harness controls the headlights, alt fuse, horns turns the "acc"

 

[TGST90]

Well technically there is more than 1 harness in every car, well most. Our cars have 2 in the bay. 1 harness goes from the ECU and hooks to all of the engine and it's components. The 2nd goes to the driver side firewall and goes to the fuse box in the car and in the bay. That harness controls the headlights, alt fuse, horns turns the "acc"

Ohh ok. So if im just replacing the one that goes onto the engine, I don't need to disconnect the one that controls the headlighs, horn..ect because I disconnect all the wires for the engine and didn't know if I need to disconnect the other wires.

Also what is the best way to put the new wiring through the firewall and connect it to the ecu. Through the floor or do I need to take apart the glovebox

 

[Tunerkid19]

no the harness in the engine bay is all one piece. I thought this to till i pulled mine to re do it. it kinda wraps around. you need to unhook the ecu, and mpi relay. removing the dash makes this process much easier. when the ecu is unhooked, find the wires that are plugged in the back of the fuse box and un hook em. the reason i say removing the dash will make it easier, you will have to move the blower motor case to feet the harness through the firewall. the drivers side inner fender will need to be either pulled or moved out of the way to remove the wires you unhooked from the back of the fuse box. the rest is pretty simple.

 

[Usatuff]

Sure if you want to think of it as 1 piece you can but there is literally 2 wires with disconnects that join the two

 

[TGST90]

oh ok. Well the wires I have only connect to the engine and since my old harness is joint by the second wiring that controls the headlighs,horn..ect should I just remove it all even though I have only the wires that connect to my engine or just put my new wires on and leave the ones, since it's joint?

 

[Usatuff]

Well what do you need to replace?

 

[Tunerkid19]

Im sorry, i completely forgot where the harness splits at the relay box.

 

[motozachl]

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[TGST90]

Well ill just try yanking it all out and put in the new engine harness

 

[TGST90]

Well, your spark plug wires are not going to prevent your car from turning over.

If it starts when you push start it then you obviously have an issue with getting power from the battery to the starter. And since you said that it will start if you go out and remove the battery cables and put them back on that is going to be the issue. You have either extremely dirty terminals and cables, or just loose cables. Either way, clean them up, both the terminals and the battery. And they tighten them down nice and snug. And more than likely your issue will go away.

I cleaned both cables and have brand new connection terminal. I checked connection also

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I found this unconnected cable that is joint with the positive cable to the battery...would this be the reason why it's not starting and where does it connect to?