2G Stalling problems when shifting

[goldeninja20]

I have a 1997 Eclipse. I'm running the stock ECU with a Fidanza flywheel and BC 272 cams. When I get on the gas and shift right when I hit full boost the car will die. My BOV is recirculated, TPS is adjusted, IAC is new and tested working, no boost leaks. I will be installing black box ECU, will I be able to solve the problem. Also why do the cams make it stall?

ps I tried to bump up the idle to 1100 with the BISS and it stays around there. low idle is not my problem.

 

[n0de]

I have a 1997 eclipse. Im running the stock ecu with a fidanza flywheel and bc 272 cams. When i get on the gas and shift right when i hit full boost the car will die. My bov is recirculated, tps is adjusted, iac is new and tested working, no boost leaks. I will be installing black box ecu, will i be able to solve the problem. Also why do the cams make it stall?

ps i tried to bump up the idle to 1100 with the biss and it stays around there. low idle is not my problem.

Boost Leak = Hella rich when you let off which in turn might cause it to die. Do a BLT

 

[goldeninja20]

Boost Leak = Hella rich when you let off which in turn might cause it to die. Do a BLT

no boost leaks. I am thinking it is flywheel/cam related. i am curious if the black box will solve the issue

 

[goldeninja20]

still having the issue. Boost leak tested today and again there is none. My iac has been replaced. tps is adjusted properly. what is my problem? rpms drop fast when i hit boost. Could it be timing related since i have my cas a little higher than base timing?

 

[Cdc1221]

It isss possible its hearing some knock and pulling timing

Boost Leak = Hella rich when you let off which in turn might cause it to die. Do a BLT

Boost leaks cause it to run rich across the rpm band, not just when you let off

 

[goldeninja20]

It isss possible its hearing some knock and pulling timing



Boost leaks cause it to run rich across the rpm band, not just when you let off

i didnt think of that. I hear no knocking and if i keep it floored it pulls like crazy. The rpms drop so fast that it makes if hard to shift. I figure d more spark would make it want to rev higher and not die like that.

 

[Cdc1221]

How are you adjusting timing anyway? You have the 6 bolt cas? Yea honestly i wouldnt fool with anything fuel or timing related until you have a way to log, thus telling you what exactly is happening. Set that baby back to stock timing and enjoy shifts without stalling

 

[goldeninja20]

How are you adjusting timing anyway? You have the 6 bolt cas? Yea honestly i wouldnt fool with anything fuel or timing related until you have a way to log, thus telling you what exactly is happening. Set that baby back to stock timing and enjoy shifts without stalling

yes i have a 6 bolt swap. Is hard to set base timing with a 97 so ill just put the setting on the cas back to the middle and see if that helps.

 

[bewstin]

Ever since i swapped in my lightweight flywheel I've had the same problem. I think the rpm's just drop too fast compared to when the stock flywheel was in. Im guessing its something that just has to be tuned out, because the ecu isnt used to the rpms dropping so fast. That, and also check you IAC module.

 

[goldeninja20]

Ever since i swapped in my lightweight flywheel I've had the same problem. I think the rpm's just drop too fast compared to when the stock flywheel was in. Im guessing its something that just has to be tuned out, because the ecu isnt used to the rpms dropping so fast. That, and also check you IAC module.

i am thinking it is also the flywheel i just dont know how to solve it. I can tune with blackbox ecu but i still have stock tune because i am not sure what to change

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I highly doubt its the flywheel. Its your tune or another issue. Darren said even with his butcher crank and light flywheels he's never had those problems with the cars he built.

 

[Devilsfutbol17]

I put a fidanza flywheel in my 91 GVR4 and I had stalling issues when I would come to a stop or when I would push the clutch in to shift going into a turn. I haven't been able to fix it, in fact it recently just became severely worse, stalling even easier. I am going to have to investigate what is going on however, I'm on speed density via ECMLink.

I also put a fidanza flywheel in my 92 GVR4 and it too created stalling issues, but not as bad as in my 91. I was going to teach my little brother to drive a manual, so I swapped back in the stock flywheel and the stalling issues disappeared.

 

[goldeninja20]

I highly doubt its the flywheel. Its your tune or another issue. Darren said even with his butcher crank and light flywheels he's never had those problems with the cars he built.

I know it is tune based, i am stock tune though. Also what would need to be fixed in the tune? Timing? AFR? I dont know how to fix the problem through the tune. How come it doesn't seem as though many other people run into the problem.

I see some people think the cause could be the bov. i am not sure what would cause this but anyones input would be great. Its getting a little annoying

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Well i could probably tell you how but in the sport of helping you learn more, I suggest you read this. Afterwards, come back and let me know how its doing.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/161642-lightened-flywheel-cause-my-stalling.html

 

[goldeninja20]

they are saying that its the ecu (the tune) because the iac is still trying to idle at 750. So if i tune my blackbox (need to get a tactrix) and set idle at 1000 it should stop the stalling? also my speed senspr does work.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

they are saying that its the ecu (the tune) because the iac is still trying to idle at 750. So if i tune my blackbox (need to get a tactrix) and set idle at 1000 it should stop the stalling? also my speed senspr does work.

Yes. You want to set your target idle speed higher and adjust your biss screw accordingly. Not necessarily 1000 but 900-950 would do.

Obviously the car was designed to operate how it was built, and you changed it so adjustment has to be made.

You could open the throttle plate alil by your sas screw as well and readjust your tps for that change. That would avoid changing the biss screw and set your target idle for 950 and that should keep your isc in check.

 

[goldeninja20]

Yes. You want to set your target idle speed higher and adjust your biss screw accordingly. Not necessarily 1000 but 900-950 would do.

Obviously the car was designed to operate how it was built, and you changed it so adjustment has to be made.

You could open the throttle plate alil by your sas screw as well and readjust your tps for that change. That would avoid changing the biss screw and set your target idle for 950 and that should keep your isc in check.

I will be ordering a tactrix asap. hoping this will actually help. Anyone else may have another solution? i know there is people out there with stock ecu and lightweight flywheel.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

You can do that last paragraph without the target idle part. Open throttle via sas maybe till tps shows 1% or till idle comes up to 950-+50. Then adjust your tps and biss. Other than that idk.

 

[goldeninja20]

You can do that last paragraph without the target idle part. Open throttle via sas maybe till tps shows 1% or till idle comes up to 950-+50. Then adjust your tps and biss. Other than that idk.

wont the ecu still try to knock the idle down to 750 by adjusting the iac. Isnt loosing the biss and opening the throttle plate doing the same thing?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Basically its doing same thing if your meaning letting more air pass. I should have said "either or" sorry. And yes the ecu will try to reach it but with the extra air passing the isc will be unable to "choke" the car even at full lock.

The stalling issue is due to the isc not being able to open fast enough to keep the engine running. Its at full lock when driving or when thottle is open more than 2.4%. So when throttle is closed it stays locked till it drops below a certain rpm. With the faster drop it doesn't catch up in time.

So opening biss or throttle via sas allows sufficient air to bypass even if isc is at full lock. So ecu may/will bring idle back down but the lowest point of isc rpm control will be raised. Thus preventing it from stalling. Make sense?

 

[goldeninja20]

Basically its doing same thing if your meaning letting more air pass. I should have said "either or" sorry. And yes the ecu will try to reach it but with the extra air passing the isc will be unable to "choke" the car even at full lock.

The stalling issue is due to the isc not being able to open fast enough to keep the engine running. Its at full lock when driving or when thottle is open more than 2.4%. So when throttle is closed it stays locked till it drops below a certain rpm. With the faster drop it doesn't catch up in time.

So opening biss or throttle via sas allows sufficient air to bypass even if isc is at full lock. So ecu may/will bring idle back down but the lowest point of isc rpm control will be raised. Thus preventing it from stalling. Make sense?

That is how i have it functioning now. So your saying that using the blackbox and setting ifle at 1000 will not make much if any of a difference. I am using the biss to raise idle instead of throttle plate. My iac should be at full lock when at idle so when i let off the gas it should still have the ability to open amd allow air to pass through preventing it from dying. So using blackbox to tell the computer to raise idle willserve no purpose in helping my car from dying?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

No it will help because that would raise the point at which it starts to open so it'd be quicker opening to control idle.

 

[goldeninja20]

I do plan on getting the tactrix and tune. I added the other spring back to my type s( i had done the single spring mod) now the bov closes right after it opens. Before it would hang open a little after the initial blow off. It most deffinetly made an improvement. It will still die if i go real hard and then let off.

 

[goldeninja20]

My BOV is recirculated. NO BOOST LEAKS. My TPS is adjusted perfect. I do have a Fidanza lightweight flywheel and BC 272 cams. My only thought is that it could be my BOV. It only happens when I'm in some sort of boost. I have a blackbox ECU but i do not have Tactrix OP cable to bump up idle, I turn it up with the BISS screw (I know that the IAC is not working properly now). I see so many people have no problems at all running a lightweight flywheel. My IAC is indeed working because on start up, the idle is a little higher than when warm and it starts up with no gas needed.