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Stalling idle after 272 cam install!?

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tsi1991awd

10+ Year Contributor
1,366
6
Sep 28, 2008
Puyallup, Washington
Just installed Delta 272s, shimmed the lifters like I was supposed to, did water pump and timing belt. Set base timing at -5*. Starts up fine, was idling at 800 so I turned it up to 1000 to see if this would cure it but didnt. When I rev in neutral, when the idle comes back down it stalls. When I drive, coming to a stop I put it in neutral and it stalls. I have to turn the car back on quick and the ABS kicks in because the brake booster comes back on and I am already pushing the brake.

How do I get it to stop stalling??
 
You unplugged your battery, right? Your ecu needs to re-learn the fuel curves. I betcha it starts getting better the more you drive it.
 
Yea I disconnected the battery. Should I disconnect it again and let it idle for 15 or 20 minutes then drive it and see what happens?
 
You could have the valve timing wrong, or the valves don't close because of the shims.

If that stuff is all ok, then I would have to assume it has something to do with your hacked MAF combined with your aluminum flywheel, are too much when the 272 cams were added. It's actually a common issue that I read about on ECMlink forums.

If you had an ACT streetlite, the added weight of the flywheel would keep the engine spinning longer on decel. When you let off the gas, the ECU cuts fuel until the RPM gets down to idle speed, but with a lightened rotating assembly, that isn't enough momentum to keep the engine running.

It's like a culmination of things; some people noticed the issue when they added a hard intake pipe, but a look at their mod list revealed that a severely light flywheel and non stock cams were also a part of the puzzle.
 
You unplugged your battery, right? Your ecu needs to re-learn the fuel curves. I betcha it starts getting better the more you drive it.

I really dont think thats it... I know that may be something with an automatic car, but i dont believe thats the case for man.

I have a similar problem. I installed HKS 272's and now when i start the car, I have to keep the rpm's up for a min or so or it will stall. But after I do that its fine. I'm going to have a local DSM specialist look at it once im done with the build and such. If you still having said problem then ill post my results.
 
I really dont think thats it... I know that may be something with an automatic car, but i dont believe thats the case for man.

It could be other things. The lightened flywheel and hacked maf will definitely help cause this problem. But many DSMers I know (myself included) often go through a period after re-connecting the battery where on heavy decel the engine doesn't catch idle and will stall. After some "learning" by the ecu, it eventually goes away. Just a suggestion.
 
It might help to make sure you have an ISC with the black plastic top instead of the old tan one. If the ISC is on it's way out that could contribute to your problem. Mine is a little slow, and my car stalls sometimes when I use the A/C.

I have to agree with the others, you may just need to drive it for a day so it can learn the idle strategy.
 
I had issues like this when I installed my HKS 264/272 cams in my car. While I believe the real culprit is some problem in my intake tract, I couldn't find it and my working solution was to raise my idle up to around 1200rpm. This prevents 99% of the off-throttle stalls I used to get.
 
I do notice the car revs faster...did balance shaft elim as well. It could be the hacked maf/light flywheel. Is there any way to correct it other than DSMLink?
 
I agree with Turbotaloon, also, you installed aftermarket cams so the ecu will also have to relearn this new profile as well. It happened to me, just to be safe check all timing and and vacuum leaks. It's BLT time!
 
Went driving around and it didnt stall...went down to 500 a few times but didnt stall until I was pulling back into my neighborhood.

What I did notice was when I was coming to a stop, it would idle surge until I completely stopped. Went from 950 to 1400 then dropped back down and back up. Settled around 1100 when I completely stopped. The boost gauge read 18in/hg to 12in/hg and then back and forth while it was surging. Think it could be a vacuum leak causing this?
 
So the car is stalling sometimes, not all the time as it was. When coming to a stop after putting it into neutral it will surge like crazy until I'm fully stopped.

I did not do a BLT, but the only line that was taken off was from the PCV to manifold, and that was so I could take the valve covers off. There's no leak coming from there, the hose is clamped tight as can be.

Any suggestions as to why it surges like that?? And the real question is - Will ECMLink fix this problem for good? Because I'm going to order it right away if that's the case.
 
Well I know this is a old thread but I have dks272s an it cranks and ildes around 1100 with only 10in of vac what gives it frees revs ok but when I try to drive it idle to 3k feels and sounds like trying to pull a hill in 5th at 20mph. Timing is on car ran great before cams. What am I doing wrong? It'd been 5 days of messing with it.
 
I also jus installed the Dks 272 and had no problems. My vacuum is at around 11 or 12 in. Are you sure the timing is correct? Have you checked it with a timing light to be 100% positive? Even tho 10 in of vacuum is like 1 or 2 different it's still fairly lower than it should be which leads mento suspect timing since that effects vacuum also.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just installed Delta 272s, shimmed the lifters like I was supposed to, did water pump and timing belt. Set base timing at -5*. Starts up fine, was idling at 800 so I turned it up to 1000 to see if this would cure it but didnt. When I rev in neutral, when the idle comes back down it stalls. When I drive, coming to a stop I put it in neutral and it stalls. I have to turn the car back on quick and the ABS kicks in because the brake booster comes back on and I am already pushing the brake.

How do I get it to stop stalling??

I forget what the value or channel its in. But there is an idle fuel cut offset. So when you raise the idle 200 rpm you also raise this value 200 rpm. Forget what its called will check in the am.

that is assuming that the cams are degree'd properly and you have no vacuum leak etc. Just for reference how much vacuum are you pulling at idle?
 
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