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Ss Turbo Manifold:xs Power?

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diamondstargsx

15+ Year Contributor
86
0
Dec 10, 2004
sml va, Virginia
i picked this up cheap today and does anyone know or heard of XS POWER?it looks like the ebay ones but it has a welded plate that has XS POWER on it and was told the cost was $360.00 online but i googled it and i cant find anything on it.

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that=crack


and another thing, cant anythign be doen to stop these guys from making horrible manifolds. there just robbing people. ive read many horror stories allready of the crackign within a month.

just sux people do this kinda shit and get away with it.
 
the thing is these guys make these manifolds (SSAutochrome) and they resell them under different names such as XS power, Turbo Calculator etc....... but realistically why wouldn't they keep selling them if people still keep buying them even when they know what the product is all about.
 
yea but then again they knwo there gonan crack. i mean most of the kids buying these do nto read up on it and get screwed. i guess your right in a way btu damn man just sux all those peopel are getting ripped off.


why the hell do they crack so much anyway, i knwo the stianless is garbage and all, but it would be saweet to have a cheap tube mani on the market.
 
I have the exact same manifold ,minus the wastegate section.

I installed it and yes it put the turbo in a bit of an akward position . To my surprise I havnt heard from anybody whom personally has these manifolds ,that they have cracked on them. I have read ALOT of posts that a friend of a friend of mine baught that and it only lasted three weeks.

I did have to custom make a downpipe/o2 housing for the way it sits ,but now im looking at a normal 3 inch o2 housing ,and will have to make a neew d-pipe.

The only true problem you might have with that mani is because the turbo is placed at an akward position you'r oil return line might not line up properly. Look at this misfortune at a chance to upgrade to a ssline with an fittings.


I drove my car with that mani on for a total of maybe 5 months and not one crack even though we had some crazy minus 20 temps over here in canada.

I must say though i was surprised to know that s autochrome sells their stuff under different names.

All in all mine hasnt cracked, but then again ALL manifolds will crack over time , my opinion is try it out . You never know it might not crack and you just might end up being a happy camper. P.s those ss pipes are mass produced mandrel bent peices so no worries about cherry welds inside the runners.
 
see if i heard more stories liek this it may convince me to try one out on my build up. but until then all the horror stories add up.


anyoen else got first hand experience with this manifold :confused:
 
Last year, i went to Raceway Park, and was walking around and came across one off these manifold from a local vendor. I asked for the price, and he said something like $360-380 (can remenber). So I asked him that they sell those on ebay for about $200 and why he had it for alot more. Than he told, "these are different, better quality".. So I picked it up and started to look at it. It was indeed better quality, thicker tubing, and the welds look very good. I dont know the company who makes them. But there's a manifold that' looks exactly like the ss autochrome that's actually good quality.
 
brryder said:
Last year, i went to Raceway Park, and was walking around and came across one off these manifold from a local vendor. I asked for the price, and he said something like $360-380 (can remenber). So I asked him that they sell those on ebay for about $200 and why he had it for alot more. Than he told, "these are different, better quality".. So I picked it up and started to look at it. It was indeed better quality, thicker tubing, and the welds look very good. I dont know the company who makes them. But there's a manifold that' looks exactly like the ss autochrome that's actually good quality.

Those were DN Performance ones and they are a different/nicer design if you're talking about "Raceway Park" as in Norwalk, OH.
 
TurboSpoolinIns said:
Those were DN Performance ones and they are a different/nicer design if you're talking about "Raceway Park" as in Norwalk, OH.

DNPs are $499 or $599 with external gate flange. I doubt they'd be selling for that low but who knows.




Most people know why they crack but here it is: Assuming the welds are good, the other reason is the two different metals used for the flanges and runners expand and contract at different rates. So on a daily driver when it's heating up and cooling down many times per day, it's more likely to crack open than on a track car. They're not gaurenteed to crack like a lot of people like to say but from the construction and amount horror stories, it's pretty likely they won't last.
 
Acutally mild steel is a better flange material, SS expands more than mild steel. The more mass you have, the more an object will expand. A 1/2" thick SS flange will expand much more than piping and due to the increased mass it will take much longer to cool down, the piping will have already contracted by the time it does. The mild steel doesn't have nearly as much movement.

Anyway back to this suject, a customer brought in one of those manifolds, and wanted me to put it on his GVR4. I looked it over closely, it's not nearly as bad as those OBX manifolds that they sell for the honda/miata crowd. The piping was thicker, the rasberries were ground out on the inside. Now for the bad news, they didn't use enough gas and there was some conatmination of the welds, a couple welds were undercut near flanges, and the head flange was far from true (I had to to mill it, at a whopping fee of $40).
We ended up putting it on that car. It's been on there for 7 months, no cracks yet.
That being said I would never expect it not to crack, this is only one of many. If you buy one you WILL have to mill the head flange and belt sand the turbine housing/wastegate flange. I guess the 8 year olds in thailand don't bolt them down to a jig before welding :laugh:
 
Truth be told, on a mild steel flange you need not even mill it down. You can bolt it on to the car with 15ft/lbs to start (fiarly light) and warm the car up and check for leaks. Where the manifold was not flat will be where your leak is. Tighten the bolts down in that area about another 5 ft/lbs and about another 2 ft/lbs on the rest of the bolts. Let the car and manifold cool down completly. Warm up again and check. It should be ok now with no leak. BUt your not done yet. Drive the car around for a day and check again. Your leak should have re developed. Tighten down the leaking bolts another bit while thightening down the rest of the bolts a little less. That should do it.

Because mild steel flexes as it's get warm your basically warming up the flange and straightening it down on the head with the heat. If you ever remove it you will need to repeat the steps but you will eventually get a seal.

Just don't let a leak go to long or you will blow out your gasket and it will never seal. If you do this right it will seal warped or not. However for $40 you can mill it and not worry.
 
so anyone else have any opinions experience with these types of manifolds.


and another question, how come some people say they crack in 3 weeks and soem have had em for a year with no problems. due driving styles,conditions effect the manifold dirrectly.

say with a somewhat heavy foot and a 50 trim in new jersey as a daily driver (for example) would it be different from a mani in southern california with a person of the same driving styles.

all in all i think this is providing some good information on these manifolds.
 
DSMJim said:
However for $40 you can mill it and not worry.

Or in my case for free ;) All that tightening of bolts is too much for my lazy butt :)

While the ONE I have seen in use didn't crack, I don't know if I would trust this on a daily driver. Being a daily driver it will find a way to fail at the most inoprotune time if possible. Like on your way to work the turbo will fall off or something ridiculous.
 
:rolleyes: Doesnt everything happen at the most akward time?

In my own personal habbits I always warm up my car (whether it be summer or winter) b4 I start driving it ,and then let the turbo timer cool it off for me after . Dont get me wrong I dont warm it up for 10 minutes but enough for me to enjoy a cigerette and admier my car.

I think that alot of different sanerios can occour on any given part ,It depends on how well maintained you'r car is. Doing a weekly check on you'r car could save you thousands of dollares in parts and loabour,think about it how often do you check you'r break lines?

Now im wondering their are two different types of jet black coating ,one prevents heat from excaping ,and the other helps the material expel it faster .

Wich type would be more benaficial on thise type of manifold?
 
They are not the best, But I think the main thing is to brace the turbo. Build a bracket that comes from the block to the turbo and will hold the turbo up so the manifold does not have to support the weight, just move the gases. Thats one of the reasons the factory has a downpipe brace on the block.
 
Hmm my mani has 6 braces all together ,one on each runner and two on the collectors.

I must say that I have read that link b4 and it still amazes me how such ppl can treat customers that way.

I really havnt experienced that type of treatment because I never went through ss autochrome for my mani but instead I purchased it through a local vendor whom deals with http://www.koumotorsports.com/new_products.html .
 
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Those look nice.

I dig the Hogans intake too.
 
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