SS Braided Turbo Coolant Line

[SexyDSM95]

Has anyone done this? I recently finished rebuilding my car (6 bolt/20g in a TD05h) and my turbo coolant hard line (the one that goes towards the front of the car to the water neck) is bad and has a couple pin holes where it bends under the turbo. Instead of me replacing it/cutting it and attaching rubber hose, and going through the hassle of unbolting everything I want to just make/buy ss braided lines. My issue is I have no clue what fitting size to get to go into the water neck and what size banjo bolt fitting to get that goes into the housing. If anyone has done this any insight would be great!

I searched for this on a couple boards and have found people wanting to do what I am looking to do, but unfortunately they don't post updates/parts.

 

[turboglenn]

Yep... Just go to a hydraulic line shop in your town. ANy large construction firm with dozers and such could point you to one if you can't find it on your own. Mine cost about 45 bucks to make and that's because i bought a ton of extra fittings because i had a few ideas on how i wanted them to run... Right now (until my new motor is ready to go in) i'm just running oil.

I've done them on 2 customer cars because they wanted the "bling status" of all SS braided hoses and i was so impressed with them i had to do it myself..it seems the turbo would burn up rubber lines every 6-8 months even with 4 inches of metal tubing between the CHRA and rubber line

Ahhh, man! I just realized, the HX35 i'm getting is oil cooled only so these are un-used and might be for sale if they won't work as heater core hoses. They are for a Garrett T3 CHRA , but are built to where you must weld -6AN fittings to the t-stat housing and water tube for them to bolt up... I love AN fittings

 

[SexyDSM95]

Hrm do you remember what size fittings and stuff you used for the customer cars? Like I mentioned I am still on the stock housing/stock water 1G water neck.

 

[turboglenn]

ON both other cars i welded -6 fittings to the t-stat and water tubes. On the first one i tried, we got a -6 with 3/8 NPT and it worked on the t-stat housing, but for the water tube there's not enough amterial there for threads, so it has to be welded..the good thing is the water tubes are mostly made from steel ( i ahve seen some AL ones though) and the steel welds really easy compared to the cast aluminum t-stat housing

If you have a housing and a fitting, and even a spare water tube and a fitting, send em to me, pay return shipping as well and i will do the labor free of charge.

 

[AuntiesTSI]

I did it on my 3052. Like Glenn did, I just had 6 AN fittings welded on to the water pipe and Tstat housing. On the turbo side I ordered some banjo fittings and 1/4 NPT to 6 AN fittings from ATPturbo.

You can't see the other line but it just goes from the front of the turbo under it to the water pipe. On the fitting from the back I used a 90 degree fitting to bring it towards the front to wrap to the Tstat housing.

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Here are the banjo fittings I ordered from ATP, part number ATP-FTG-002.

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[2GeNTSi]

I want to know where I can get a set of these for my 14B:

Mitsubishi EVO 4~9 Turbo Oil Water line Garrett GT3076 - eBay (item 300400956105 end time Mar-27-10 10:57:19 PDT)

Or at least the part #'s to make my own. Any ideas? I know nothing about those NPT fittings.

**EDIT**
Actually, this says it'll fit a T25...so then it must be usable on a 14B. I mean if I used the T25 water lines on my 14B - then this should work!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turb...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[motozachl]

Do you have to use a banjo fitting for the turbo side? Or can you just use a straight fitting from the water pipe to the turbo?

Also this is still unanswered as I have the same question. Would like to know the threading/size for the water pipe in addition to a 16g

Hrm do you remember what size fittings and stuff you used for the customer cars? Like I mentioned I am still on the stock housing/stock water 1G water neck.

 

[motozachl]

Would this work for the 16g (i'm unsure of the threading for the turbo)?
3/8" fitting to 14mm banjo using highheat reinforced hose

Fitting, 3/8" pushlock barb to 6AN Flare, Male to Male, Straight Adapter : atpturbo.com

3/8" Hose, Black, Re-inforced Rubber, 300psi, 3/8" barb or -6 pushlock : atpturbo.com

14mm Banjo Fitting Set for coolant lines - 3/8" Barb : atpturbo.com

 

[turboglenn]

I didn't get as fancy as banjo bolting at the turbo, I just put the -6/3/8NPT straights into the turbo as far as possible then used 90* fittings (hydraulic shop has real tight 90's, way tighter than you can get in earls IIRC) and they were cheap adn are still working

 

[phatTSi]

I did this on my 1g and recently transferred the lines over to my Galant. I just used a 3/8npt to -6 straight fitting out of the thermostat housing and a m14 to -6 fitting off the turbo. I then built the actual line with a 90* fitting straight off the turbo then ~8'' of -6 line and a 45* fitting to mate back up to the thermostat housing. This is on a 35r, but most of the fittings are the same. I'll post up a picture or two tomorrow while I'm at the shop.

 

[1997_GSX]

I am using -6 an Pushlok and Pushlok fittings for my car. I got sick of the junk rubber hose from advance leaking...

 

[motozachl]

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the water pipe 5/8 npt? So technically I can use brake line and then run this directly to the turbo coolant drain with a 14x1.5 fitting?

 

[2GeNTSi]

Would this work for the 16g (i'm unsure of the threading for the turbo)?
3/8" fitting to 14mm banjo using highheat reinforced hose

Fitting, 3/8" pushlock barb to 6AN Flare, Male to Male, Straight Adapter : atpturbo.com

3/8" Hose, Black, Re-inforced Rubber, 300psi, 3/8" barb or -6 pushlock : atpturbo.com

14mm Banjo Fitting Set for coolant lines - 3/8" Barb : atpturbo.com

Were you planning to use this setup for the turbo to waterpipe coolant line? I was thinking of doing a similar setup, but using this fitting at the turbo with a steel braided line:

Metric 14mm to 6AN, Male to Male

Steel Braided Hose, -6AN

Then a similar male to male adapter for the other end, but I'm not sure what the pitch and ID is of the waterpipe. Did you ever find out if the waterpipe provision is indeed 5/8?

 

[motozachl]

^ I actually went with 14mm pushlock fittings for the banjo bolts as I already had the bolts themselves. Then used the high-heat high-pressure transmission line. Works great and no leaks.

I considered this setup above as you mentioned but the problem with this is that the coolant drain from the turbo would be sticking out too far because its a straight fitting.

Lastly the water pipe thread was a standard 3/8

 

[2GeNTSi]

Do you have any links for the push-lock adapter you purchased for the banjo bolt? Or is it a straight barb coming off the banjo bolt like in your post I quoted above?

Also I thought about it some more, and it would be easier to install/remove this line if I go with the banjo bolt so I will probably go this route as well.

 

[motozachl]

I can't find the part# on summit but it was something like this:

Russell 697080 Garrett Turbo Water Inlet/Outlet Banjo Adapter 14mm Banjo Bolt To -6 AN Twist

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[2GeNTSi]

I can't find the part# on summit but it was something like this:

Russell 697080 Garrett Turbo Water Inlet/Outlet Banjo Adapter 14mm Banjo Bolt To -6 AN Twist

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Thanks. I think I'm going to get everything from ATPturbo since they are local and I can swing by there. You said the water pipe is a 3/8 standard, so a 14mm (1.5 pitch) should work right? And from the looks of it you are also using 3/8 hose from the banjo to the thermostat?

UPDATE
Actually I just had the chance to try the banjo bolt from the turbo (M14 x 1.5) on the waterpipe and it was too small. I went to OSH Hardware and they only had M16 x 2.0 bolts to try. It threaded a bit but wouldn't go on all the way. I think a M16 x 1.5 would be the right fit.

 

[2GeNTSi]

motozachl

Any issues with your coolant hose melting? I'm not too worried about he hose on the front of the turbo, but the one on the rear is sort of resting on the cartridge and I'm afraid it might heat up and melt. It's a high-temp hose from ATPTurbo (I'm sure the same as any hose you can find at the parts store) but I don't know if it'll hold up to the heat next to the exhaust housing.

 

[kawgomoo]

For my water lines i used -6 straight fittings screwed into the turbo. You can get them with a straight thread and crush washers so the thread right into the housing properly.

From there each line is pointed down with a 90 degree hose end fitting.

The AN nipple that goes onto the steel water line needs to be welded on. {you could probably use a tube to an adapter and flare the stock line..but this sounds like more work than just welding it}

The line that comes off the t-stat housing requires no welding. Useing vicegrips or channel locks {drop a bolt inside the stock fitting so u can clamp down on it without crushing it} Clamp down with the vice grips, twist it a few times and pull it out the t-stat housing.

a standard -6x3/8npt fitting screws into the housing nicely.

Those atp banjo adapters are junk...they just fit terribly. Nothing against the company..they are just a poor design and execution.

 

[2GeNTSi]

Those atp banjo adapters are junk...they just fit terribly. Nothing against the company..they are just a poor design and execution.

You might be right about that, I was all about done and my dad was pouring the coolant in while I was finishing up and the coolant leaked from the front and rear banjo bolts using the ATP fittings I bought. I had them torque to spec as well.

We dropped the turbo twice because we thought the banjo bolts weren't tight enough. Unfortunately it still leaked after torquing them down some more. In the end we just re-used the factory water lines (torqued to the same settings) and no leaks.

The AN fitting with the pushlock sealed in fine, but the aluminum banjo fitting was not sealing at all. I was using new copper crush washers which might have been the problem (aluminum might have worked) but I didn't have the time to go looking around parts stores for them.

I'll keep the lines and fittings I assembled together, but I'm going to have to figure out through ATP what the issue might be.