The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

squeaking noise

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

99 gst spyder

15+ Year Contributor
522
1
Jul 12, 2007
st. paul, Minnesota
I have a loud squeaking noise coming from the front passenger brake or drum. When this happens, my car seem to pull me back while in gear cruising kinda like braking while cruising and seems like a huge loss of power and hard to accelerate. Anyone have any ideas?
 
Check your emergency brake, maybe it is engaged and you dont know it...? (and it's a disc brake that you would have in the front, not a drum brake.)
 
I was tempted to say wheel bearing but I've never heard of one bind up so bad on occasion that you actually feel a loss in power.

I would check out the calipers as mentioned. Take a look at the pads - if one is worn unevenly then you know the caliper isn't properly releasing and is dragging the pad, meaning you'll need to rebuild it.
 
I also have very bad shaking to the steering wheel after a while of driving on normal streets. Emergency brake is good all the way down. the shaking and squeaking is more leading to the bad wheel bearing I'm guessing. I also have a leaking brake master cylinder and am about to change it soon. Anything else?
 
I was tempted to say wheel bearing but I've never heard of one bind up so bad on occasion that you actually feel a loss in power.

I would check out the calipers as mentioned. Take a look at the pads - if one is worn unevenly then you know the caliper isn't properly releasing and is dragging the pad, meaning you'll need to rebuild it.

I agree with this, or your rotors are warped.. If your bearings were bad you would normally hear a click, click, click or clunk, clunk, clunk noise, when driving (like the sound of someone shaking a paint can.)
 
Sounds like a bad caliper that's sticking. If you're driving in town, you're on and off the brakes more which is giving it more opportunities to occur. If it were a bearing, it wouldn't be that severe of a drag. You'd hear it growl before that point. You can jack it up by the unibody welds, and try moving the wheel in/out by pushing on the top/pulling on the bottom at the same time, and vice versa. The shake, along with pull sounds like a sticky caliper/warped rotor combination. And it would get worse and worse as the pad continually rubs on the rotor, causing it to get extremely hot, and possibly warping it worse.
 
Update. I've taken the both calipers out today. Took the brake pads out and I found the it's a lot harder to press the caliper back in and the driver side went in like butter which is normal I'm assuming. Would that lead to bad passenger caliper on the passenger side?

Brake pad and rotors looks decent.
 
Yes that is a bad caliper, u definitely have to get another one, while you there there I would suggest doing the rotors and pads, but that is my opinion, I like to be double sure of something when it comes down to brakes.
 
Yes that is a bad caliper, u definitely have to get another one, while you there there I would suggest doing the rotors and pads, but that is my opinion, I like to be double sure of something when it comes down to brakes.

Okay thanks. I am getting new pads for sure but the rotor seems okay. Should I change both calipers or just that one that is bad?
 
If your car is shaking I am willing to bet your rotors are warped. You wont be able to tell its warp by looking at it, in most cases. I would have them machined (which is fairly cheap) along with new pads, new brake fluid, and bleed the system.
 
If I were you I would just replace the bad caliper and leave the other alone. I have owned more DSM's than I have fingers and toes and have only had to replace one caliper ever. If it aint broke don't fix it. The few bucks you save buy only buying one caliper from the junkyard can be put to use by paying 20.00 (average) to have your rotors turned.:thumb:
 
If your car is shaking I am willing to bet your rotors are warped. You wont be able to tell its warp by looking at it, in most cases. I would have them machined (which is fairly cheap) along with new pads, new brake fluid, and bleed the system.

Like said, your rotors are warped. Buy a new caliper, new pads, and have the rotors turned at your local shop. I charge $20 a rotor at my shop, so $40 to get rid of your shake. I recommend replacing both calipers, because as they age and brake fluid becomes old, passages start to clog, pressures start to pffset, and you may feel it pull harder one way when breaking heavily. As I said, this MAY occur, you might not ever feel a difference. It's just something to keep in mind.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top