Sputtering only around 3k rpm

[Nofear20]

Ok so about a month and a half ago I put an ETS FMIC on my car. It ran good. Couple weeks ago it would start sputtering and running bad around 3k rpm's. I will be just cruising through town in 3rd gear.. barely on the throttle at all, and the car will start sputtering. I will floor it and it wont go anywhere. It basically feels like I am in 5th gear going 10 and flooring it. also during this time my UEGO wideband will read _ _ . _

It ONLY seems to do this when I am cruising around 3k rpm. I can do a pull all the way to redline and have it run fine, but then when I cruise it will start sputtering. The spark plugs were replaced not to long ago, the wires I am not sure about. Any ideas?

Edit: Also the gear I am in does not effect anything. It has done this is 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear, but as stated before only around 3k rpm's. I have to be cruising in the same gear for around 20 seconds at a constant RPM for it to start sputtering. Once it does it all I do is downshift, and then shift back into the gear I was in before, and it wont do it... until I cruise for about another 20 seconds that is, then it will do it again.

 

[Nofear20]

anyone?

 

[da_golden1]

had the same problem, unplug your MAF if the car cuts off then it is bad. if the car stays running drive it around the block and see how it runs if it runs fine then replace it ASAP! it could also have skipped time a tooth or two.

 

[Nofear20]

What is the chance of the timing jumping teeth? I had the timing belt put on professionally by English Racing. Sure hope thats not the problem.. As for the MAF, I guess I can try it.. but I accidently left it unplugged once about a month ago and the car would barely idle... it ran much worse then it does now.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

had the same problem, unplug your MAF if the car cuts off then it is bad. if the car stays running drive it around the block and see how it runs if it runs fine then replace it ASAP! it could also have skipped time a tooth or two.

Yea, I don't understand how this is supposed to help. These cars will barely idle with the MAF unplugged, let alone let you "drive around the block" with it unplugged.

It's very possible that the MAF is the cause of the problem, but what about the ECU? Could that be bad as well? Is there anyway (other then swapping in new parts) to tell if either of these items is shot?

 

[busted_4g63]

Do you have a 1g head or a 2g? If you have a 1g head. Sounds like your getting the random misfire code while you cruise.

 

[99 gst spyder]

Ok so about a month and a half ago I put an ETS FMIC on my car. It ran good. Couple weeks ago it would start sputtering and running bad around 3k rpm's. I will be just cruising through town in 3rd gear.. barely on the throttle at all, and the car will start sputtering. I will floor it and it wont go anywhere. It basically feels like I am in 5th gear going 10 and flooring it. also during this time my UEGO wideband will read _ _ . _

It ONLY seems to do this when I am cruising around 3k rpm. I can do a pull all the way to redline and have it run fine, but then when I cruise it will start sputtering. The spark plugs were replaced not to long ago, the wires I am not sure about. Any ideas?

Edit: Also the gear I am in does not effect anything. It has done this is 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear, but as stated before only around 3k rpm's. I have to be cruising in the same gear for around 20 seconds at a constant RPM for it to start sputtering. Once it does it all I do is downshift, and then shift back into the gear I was in before, and it wont do it... until I cruise for about another 20 seconds that is, then it will do it again.

when you bought the new spark plugs, did you gap them yet. my gst sputters just like that at 5k and full boost, i gap mine and it ran fine.....

 

[meliketoball]

Yeah, I'd check the gap on the plugs and check the resistance on the SP wires since you said that you didn't check them.

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

Honestly, I would suggest you take your wires out and give them a good inspection. I have the exact same problem and I was stumped after changing plugs and correctly gapping them (I also have the ETS kit, not that it matters). Yesterday I removed my MSD's and noticed that they had a tiny hole and was burnt a little on the side. Maybe they were arcing...Idk. I replaced them with my friend's Magnecors and the problem went away immediately on the test drive.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

For the record, he has the 2g head on his 6 bolt bottom end.

 

[Nofear20]

Yes the plugs are gapped to .028 and they are the bpre6 or whatever. Like Derek said I have a 2g head on the 6 bolt block. I will have to check the wires.

 

[demografik]

start simple: new plugs and wires.

 

[numlock666]

had the same problem, unplug your MAF if the car cuts off then it is bad. if the car stays running drive it around the block and see how it runs if it runs fine then replace it ASAP! it could also have skipped time a tooth or two.

What does the MAF have to do with Valve timing? . If you unplug you maf and the car runs worse, then you MAF is most likely still working. Doubt you even know what the MAF does.

Do the simple tests first and post results, plugs, wires, boost leak, compression. Als do you have a logger? if so post a log cruise. And you say you have a 6bolt bottom end, it could be randome cylinder misfire thats asscociated with 6bolts in 2G's. Did you actually do the swap yourself or someone told you it was when you bought it?

 

[Nofear20]

The entire swap was done professionally by English racing.

 

[numlock666]

and you paid them to do it? Or did you buy the car and he had a reciept that says it was done?

 

[busted_4g63]

Yeah was not sure if he had a 2g or a 1g head. Your knock sensor might be going bad.

 

[Nofear20]

I paid english racing to do it. If the knock sensor is going bad would it throw a CEL?

 

[busted_4g63]

Yes it would. Are you for sure you have a 2g head?

 

[numlock666]

whether its a 1G head or 2G head it shouldnt matter. The only way to do a 6bolt swap is to use a 1G cam angle sensor, or the crazy hard way, some serious machine work to the oilpump case of a 7bolt to fit the 6bolt block. If it is in actuality a 6bolt, its a common thing for it to get misfire while cruising at about 3-4k rpms and it will start to sputter randomly. There is a quick cheat fix for this. Every week I see a 2G come through the shop with "6bolt" swaps and they pop the hood and I call their BS in less than 2 sec. 1 Obvious lack of 1G CAS and 2, block mates up with tranny perfectly (rounded and uses all bolt holes). The 1G tranny had one less hole thus the block had 1 less hole. 6bolt block with 7bolt tranny, there will be one unused hole in the bellhousing holding the tranny to the block towards the front of the car above the slave cylinder.

 

[Nofear20]

I have a 6 bolt, and I know I have a 1g cas. So whats this cheat that your talking about?

 

[busted_4g63]

A potentiometer is the cheap way out or you can buy dsmlink and invert the cas. Heres the link for the potentiometer fix. http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/tech/1gina2g.pdf. Its towards the bottom under troubleshooting.

 

[vancitydsm]

Do you have an after market BOV or stock bypass? I doubt a throttle sensor would do that.. hmm try cleaning your MAF .. Are you getting any codes? if so what are they? I don't see a knock sensor doing that. Try better gas if you use cheap stuff. If your at part throttle I don't see it being an ignition miss. You have to understand that its always at the same rpm.. Thats a strange one. I would assume computer from where I am, I can't do any diagnosing from here. If you pay these dudes money to replace parts why don't you get these professionals to diagnose it? Let me know how long it takes them and what it was thanx!

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

If you pay these dudes money to replace parts why don't you get these professionals to diagnose it? Let me know how long it takes them and what it was thanx!

English Racing is like 3 hours from here. If it was my car, I'd much rather try to figure out the problem myself before spending close to $100 in gas just to go get my car diagnosed by them.

Granted, if I couldn't figure the problem out on my own... I'd pony up the gas money in a heartbeat.

 

[demografik]

start simple: new plugs and wires.

do it.