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Spun bearing question>>>>> please help

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TNTDSM7777

10+ Year Contributor
89
1
Apr 28, 2011
Missoula, Montana
OK, so I picked up a 95 talon tsi awd with a spun bearing for cheap.... I have the short block already rebuilt and the head clean/ inspected. Everything worked out so far.... My question is what do i need to replace outside of the long block... since i am guessing metal shavings went everywhere... Do i have to get a new oil cooler or can i reuse it.... along with the oil pan, oil filter housing, and the turbo?
 
You can just clean everything very good and you'll be good to go..i would investigate why it spun a bearing though. New OEM oil pump? If the BS have been removed did you/they block the oil ports off correctly? Just some things to keep in mind. After the engine is back together make sure you have oil pressure so you dont spin another bearing.. Oh and the turbo, check for shirt play and clean it out good!
Edit: shift play
 
I got a balence shaft elimination done.... the block off bearings are installed correctly. Ya well there was 160000 miles on the stock motor in the car.. had two previous owners. It could be plenty of things. THe last owner was a kid that knew nothing about cars, so he probably had no oil in it. SO cleaning it should be fine? Should i change the oil 100 miles after i get it running, instead of say 500. Just to get most of the left over shavings. I really just want to put it back in and have it spin again... I already dropped 2500 in the rebuild so far.
 
When my motor spun a bearing. I just cleaned the oil pan and oil filter house really really clean and my motor is still running haha. The turbo was blown in my situation so i got a new one. And i changed my oil in the first 10 miles then again at 30. Oil because there was a leak and i just went ahead and changed it. Then imma do it again at 250 and then 1500 then at the regular 3000 miles from then on.
 
ok thanks for all your help.... changing the oil just like alex did will probably be the best bet. I dont want to take any risks. I might just decide to get a new oil pan anyways. Better safe than sorry i guess.
 
You really dont need to change the oil pan. You can spend that money on something else. Just clean it to the point where its bone dry and no oil or metal flakes and it'll be as good as new.
 
ok haha.... I got that I have to CLEAN everything.... What would you consider that I clean it with. Should I go through every oil line and scrub it or just go through it with a rag?
 
Brake cleaner and pressurized air until it's pretty clean. At the end, use brake cleaner and a CLEAN rag.

I'm not sure if the turbo pan has baffles, but if it does you can pour some gas in it and swish it around to get the shavings under the baffles. Repeat until you get no more shavings. It there are no baffles, it will be really easy to clean. And remember, if you miss a tiny bit it isn't the end of the world. It goes through the filter before it goes through the engine, so your filter should catch what you miss. I'm not saying to not care, but don't stress yourself out over it if you miss a tiny bit.
 
ok that sounds good to me.... I will clean everything the best I can. :thumb:
Hopefully its only uphill from here.
 
cleaned out my oil pan as well thoroly. dont skimp there. the oil filter catches alot of the other stuff. agree on the new oil pump as youve said the original motor had 160k on it ###### all on the original oil pump might as well change it while the motor is out of the car a whooooooooole lot easier. also alot of other stuff will come out when you do your initial start up ( you fill the car up with oil let it run for 5-10 min, shut down drain the pan to get all the white bearing grease out of your oil as it thins it, change the filter, refill with oil and break in as you see fit). sounds like your on the right track. also agree with the brake clean it strips really well and if you dont get all of it out it is a combustable (it burns off, also good if your trying to find a vaccume leak i might add LOL)
 
Thanks, glad someone gave me some information on the initial startup... Havent really read anything on that yet. I already replaced the oil pump so i dont have to worry about that, along with the bearings, t-belt, and t belt tensioner.
 
OK that will work too... guessing regular gas will work as well. I will make sure that it is clean.
 
glad to help as alway im by far not an expert but if i remember correctly i disconnected my coil pack as well ( so the engine wont fire up) and let the key turn over a couple times to build up some oil pressure as well. If im not mistaken i read that on this forum somewhere.
 
hmmm well since i live in missoula mt I highly doubt somewhere has a sonic cleaner LOL.... Well i will just change the oil a lot the first 6 months and just check everything very carefully. Thanks for the knowledge about gas in the pores by the way haha.
 
Couldnt you prime the engine with a drill? I read a couple forums that said that was the easiest way.
 
I have read some many forums on it already..... that would be a lot easier..... since you can have the timing belt installed and have it in the engine. I am not sure though.... might try it both ways just to be safe
 
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