2G Spun 2 rod bearing at the dyno

[Jacolu3]

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So I took my car to the dyno yesterday and after a few pulls we started to notice a ticking noise. So we decided to pull the car off the dyno and I had the car towed home. I dropped the oil pan today and found cylinder 1&4 have a spun rod bearing. I'm not sure what would have caused this to happen and now I'm not sure how to proceed.
The engine was built about 6000k miles ago with acl bearing with eagle rods and wiesco pistons.
Do I need to do a complete tear down now? Or can I just replace the bearings?

 

[livedsm4g63]

Complete tear down and polishing of the areas. May have to cut the crank and use over-sized bearings, etc. I would also check the rods for any heat indications showing a weak point. (Blueing, etc)

Someone either didn't know how to tune or they didn't know how to use Plastigauge.
Or "didnt know how to use torque wrench", thanks Kryndon.

 

[Kryndon]

Ouch, sorry about that man. Almost nothing worse than spinning bearings. Depending on how long the engine was ran after the failure, there would be a lot of contamination in the oil galleries and up top in the head. Definitely have to tear it all down for inspection and cleaning. I'd take a wild guess and say the rod caps were not properly torqued when assembling the engine.

Like 'livedsm4g63' has said, crank will have to me machined depending on how deep the scratches are and you'll need oversized bearings. Good luck!

 

[miliman13]

I fail to see how the damage is tune related

 

[mitsubishikid]

Was the balance shafts eliminated on this motor? and if so was it the oem kit or ebay special... I have seen a few spun rod examples happen from using a knock off bse kits.

 

[Jacolu3]

Was the balance shafts eliminated on this motor? and if so was it the oem kit or ebay special... I have seen a few spun rod examples happen from using a knock off bse kits.

The balance shafts were eliminated. As for which kit, I'm not sure. I bought the motor with the bse already done so I never even touched it.

 

[Jacolu3]

Ouch, sorry about that man. Almost nothing worse than spinning bearings. Depending on how long the engine was ran after the failure, there would be a lot of contamination in the oil galleries and up top in the head. Definitely have to tear it all down for inspection and cleaning. I'd take a wild guess and say the rod caps were not properly torqued when assembling the engine.

Like 'livedsm4g63' has said, crank will have to me machined depending on how deep the scratches are and you'll need oversized bearings. Good luck!

Yeah I was leaning towards the feeling of a complete tear down. I guess this is why if you want something done right you have to do it yourself.

 

[Jacolu3]

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On a possibly separate note, I pulled the plugs, which were brand new, installed once I got to the dyno, looked kind of rusted. Possible head gasket?

 

[Jacolu3]

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This is the best picture I have of the bse

 

[gsxeclipse102]

He meant the ol pump stub shaft part of the bse. In that picture your tensioner is really far out.

Spun bearings is usually from either incorrect clearances or loss of oil pressure.

 

[livedsm4g63]

I fail to see how the damage is tune related

High counts of knock can cause bearing failures. Look at the top most bearing. If it looks beaten, you my good sir have detention. Looking at these, both sides look rather bad. All depends on when you catch the issue. It could have been knocking like crazy for the past x amount of miles and it finally gave away. Hard to say.

Also.... that tensioner shaft position .

 

[Jacolu3]

He meant the ol pump stub shaft part of the bse. In that picture your tensioner is really far out.

Spun bearings is usually from either incorrect clearances or loss of oil pressure.

This was not the final tensioner position. This was just a picture I took while installing the timing belt

 

[gsxeclipse102]

Gotch ya. How was the rod bearings on 2 and 3?

 

[Jacolu3]

Gotch ya. How was the rod bearings on 2 and 3?

Didn't get a chance to pull them yet. I knew 1&4 was spun because I could move the rod while it was still bolted down.

 

[livedsm4g63]

This was not the final tensioner position. This was just a picture I took while installing the timing belt

Glad to hear

 

[Jacolu3]

Would these rods be reusable?

 

[kmetiuk]

In that picture your tensioner is really far out.

^^^ This.

That tensioner looks like its at the end of travel.

EDIT: NM saw your post after this. Tensioner was good.

 

[GST with PSI]

Do I need to do a complete tear down now?

Yes.

Do you have a log of the dyno pull?

 

[Jacolu3]

Yes.

Do you have a log of the dyno pull?

Unfortunately I don't have a log. It was the tuners laptop. I did look at the log and didn't see over 1 count of knock on any of the logs.

 

[gsxeclipse102]

Unfortunately I don't have a log. It was the tuners laptop. I did look at the log and didn't see over 1 count of knock on any of the logs.

No knock...That could be bad also. Is the knock sensor good? I find it hard to believe you got O counts of knock and spun bearings. How old is the sensor?

 

[Jacolu3]

No knock...That could be bad also. Is the knock sensor good? I find it hard to believe you got O counts of knock and spun bearings. How old is the sensor?

The sensor definitely works. I have logs with knock(nothing over 2 counts).
During tuning there was some knock but it was only .4 counts

 

[livedsm4g63]

That points to incorrect tolerancing or the wrong torque was used.

 

[Jacolu3]

Will I have to rebuild the turbo too to clean it out?

 

[livedsm4g63]

Depends how far the material got.
I would take off the feed/return line to see if you can find any debris.
Were you feeding from the head or from the ofh?
If there was a filter before the turbo, typically a rebuild isnt necessary.

First things first, time to rip out the powerplant, cleaned it up and check dimensions. Measuring other rod clearances may tell the story.

 

[Jacolu3]

Depends how far the material got.
I would take off the feed/return line to see if you can find any debris.
Were you feeding from the head or from the ofh?
If there was a filter before the turbo, typically a rebuild isnt necessary.

First things first, time to rip out the powerplant, cleaned it up and check dimensions. Measuring other rod clearances may tell the story.

In the process now of pulling the motor.
I am feeding from the oil filter housing so I guess technically there is a filter before.