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Repairing Spun Rod Bearing

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Jackyll

15+ Year Contributor
168
0
Sep 11, 2003
Hanover Park, Illinois
Hey all...
I've been looking for a GSX for a while now, and this one came up tonight. However, there are a few problems with it...

This is from the owner...

"Known Problems : Car still starts, but I spun a rod-bearing and its been sitting in my garage since end of summer last year...It also needs a little body work on the rear right side bumper...This is a good time to build internally...I'm guessing (HKS CAMS/JE PISTONS/CROWER RODS) shouldn't total over $1400 & the bodywork is $500 to fix"

Basically, I have two questions. I did a search on spun rod bearings, and a lot of people are saying that many of the times a rod bearing goes, the crank goes too. Therefore, would it be stupid of me to get this as my first DSM when it already has problems? Or would it just be as easy as replacing the bearing? Also, is $1,400 a resonable estimate for getting it fixed?

Thanks! :thumb:
Mike
 
well, i bought my 96 tsi, 3 days later i spun a rod bearing:mad:, i pulled the motor myself brought it to the machine had the motor rebuilt to stock using the mach V topline rebuild kit. New used crank. i should have went 6 bolt but i kept the 7bolt i shouldn't have i'm getting problems with the crank already, had the balance shaft removed. they tore the head apart clean it made sure it was all good. Had the shop put the motor together and got a 1 year warrenty on thier work. that costed me $1496. and all kind of other small stuff that added up so it was a little over $1600 by the time it was running. that not with performance internals. Its not really as easy as just replacing the bearing i wouldn't recommend it. the motor has to come out to turn the crank anyway. i had metal shaving all in the oil pan.

It depends on how much your paying for the car and the condition of the interior and trans??

And if you like getting your hands dirty:thumb:
 
Don't know how much it would cost, but what almost always happens with a spun rod bearing is the crank shaft gets bent. So it needs to be turned and straightened. You could have the machine shop check it, but if there is more than .005" or .006", they will have to straighten it. I would say, do as Logue and get a "good used crank".
 
same thing happend in my old 7bolt....i spun a bearing and it went to work on my crank. I ended up just getting a complete 6bolt and putting it in. To be honest with you(if you get the car) I would just rebuild the whole bottom end while its out....that is if you have the cash to put in aftermarket rods/pistons and the rest of the stuff.

I wouldnt buy the car unless you are willing to go through all of this and are getting a deal. Chances are if this is your first dsm and dont have much experience with cars your gonna get in head over heals. but i guess its a good way to learn.
 
Originally posted by Logue

...
the motor has to come out to turn the crank anyway.

If I may, their are portable crank grinders in most large cities. All they need is water and electricity, not even sure about the electricity since portable generators are common place now days.

You tell them what you have and what you know, they tell you what must be removed for their equipment to work. Mostly fan belts, oil pan, pick-up screen would have to come off for one motor is belt driven to spin the crank while the grinding tool is grinding the bearing to know size. Not all the time will pistons have to be removed for some rods can swing to the side so the crank can rotate. They will bring assorted bearing sizes for your engine for they don't know how much they have to grind until they measure. This way you don't have to chase all over town looking for a broken set of the undersize bearing(s) and can buy the other sizes from them at competitive prices if you want. They might even have needed gaskets without buying a complete set if they really know thier business.

They are usually pretty busy so you may have to wait a few days for them to show up but it fills a need especially when talking large diesel engines that would crush a 1 ton pickup truck. The prices are fair, and they guarantee their work, (of course not yours) but they have a reputation to maintain and are not about to grind something that is more suitable as a door stop. The prices are competitive because they don't have a shop to maintain, just a work truck and the tools of their trade. They don't do valve jobs, build engines, or install clutches for they can make more money doing just this task. Be considerate, don't make them work in dirt and grime, ask how high it needs to be off the ground though they may have their own jacks to make life easier.

Cheers,
GTM
 
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