speed density on a 2g help

[NJBoostedDSM]

I just got speed density for my GST as im converting to ecmlink, question is, i know i have to weld the bung on my pipe and get it as close to my throttle body as possible but what else do i need to do? just wondering because i read somewhere theres an option you can do thats different from a 1g dsm. I read it on eatsleepdsm i believe.

Pictures and what not would help as well! thanks!

 

[NJBoostedDSM]

That is a weld-in bung. You need to drill a hole in the intake pipe so the bung sits just inside of it, then weld the bung to the pipe. After it cools off, install the sensor into the bung. Do not weld the bung with the sensor screwed in...

Ohhh the cirlce thing is called the bung? Jesus man i wouldve screwed the whole thing up, so weld it on there then screw in the iat sensor?

 

[c2ypt1c]

so weld it on there then screw in the iat sensor?

Yes. Also, your intake pipe (and the bung) is aluminum so you'll need to find an aluminum welder.

 

[boost97gst]

There's no way condensation would ever be a problem with it mounted underneath right? I wouldnt think it'd be enough to matter but still, its something to consider when mounting it.

And yes, closer to the TB is better. Friction causes air to get hotter. So right on the outlet of the IC the air is going to be a different temp. It hasnt traveled to its destination yet and therefore will pick up radiant heat(as cryptic pointed out) and also heat caused by the friction/turbulence inside the pipe. Probably minimal but still, near TB mounting is the way its done for a good reason.

 

[Calan]

That ^

1). Closer to the TB is better
2). Mount it horizontally if possible, to keep moisture from settling in it
3). Make sure you aren't sucking oil through the IC and piping. Oil will kill these sensors faster than anything.

 

[NJBoostedDSM]

Yes. Also, your intake pipe (and the bung) is aluminum so you'll need to find an aluminum welder.

My bung is stainless steel though i didnt choose aluminum

That ^

1). Closer to the TB is better
2). Mount it horizontally if possible, to keep moisture from settling in it
3). Make sure you aren't sucking oil through the IC and piping. Oil will kill these sensors faster than anything.

Okay cool how can i prevent oil from getting in there or i should be fine regardless?



Also would it come out something like this? Before i screw in the iat sensor of course...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Calan]

My bung is stainless steel though i didnt choose aluminum

For aluminum pipe, you need an aluminum bung. And you don't want to run a steel UICP.

You'll need to find someone with a TIG welder to weld it. A MIG welder can be used if they know what they are doing, but it's easy to burn through thin IC piping with a MIG.

...how can i prevent oil from getting in there or i should be fine regardless?

If you are running a closed-loop crankcase evac setup (like factory), use a good catch can inline between the VC and turbo inlet. Also make sure your turbo is in good shape and the seals aren't leaking, and use a good oil drain setup on the turbo.

It shouldn't be an issue, but it doesn't hurt to pull the UICP every now and then and check for oil residue... for several reasons.

 

[NJBoostedDSM]

For aluminum pipe, you need an aluminum bung. And you don't want to run a steel UICP.

You'll need to find someone with a TIG welder to weld it. A MIG welder can be used if they know what they are doing, but it's easy to burn through thin IC piping with a MIG.



If you are running a closed-loop crankcase evac setup (like factory), use a good catch can inline between the VC and turbo inlet. Also make sure your turbo is in good shape and the seals aren't leaking, and use a good oil drain setup on the turbo.

It shouldn't be an issue, but it doesn't hurt to pull the UICP every now and then and check for oil residue... for several reasons.

Damn, should i try to return it and get an aluminum one then? and find a TIG welder for the aluminum bung if i switch it somehow? and turbo just got rebuilt so should be good, but yeah checking it every now and again seems like a good idea haha

 

[Calan]

Damn, should i try to return it and get an aluminum one then? and find a TIG welder for the aluminum bung if i switch it somehow?

Yes

 

[NJBoostedDSM]

Yes

f*** me man im always running into problems, thanks for your help though!

 

[Calan]

Get on the regional forum for your area or check around FB, etc.. There is probably a DSM'er with a TIG welder that would help you out for a beer (or other cold beverage if applicable) or a couple $$.

If memory serves, I think that bung is a 3/8 NPT. You should be able to find them locally at any speed shop or contractor supply houses. They are also readily available all over the web (Summit Racing, Jegs, etc).

 

[Calan]

Also, you may have noticed that the IAT in your pic has red sealer on the threads; some do not. Never, EVER screw any type of brass or stainless fitting into an aluminum NPT bung without some type of thread sealer or Teflon tape. Besides leaking, you'll also weld them together solid due to galling between the differing metals.

 

[NJBoostedDSM]

Also, you may have noticed that the IAT in your pic has red sealer on the threads; some do not. Never, EVER screw any type of brass or stainless fitting into an aluminum NPT bung without some type of thread sealer or Teflon tape. Besides leaking, you'll also weld them together solid due to galling between the differing metals.

okay cool ill hop onto the regional forums and see if i can find anything, i contacted ecmtuning to see if they can exchange mine or at least sell me one, hoping for a good reply!

Okay so i should make sure my IAT sensor has that red coating on it? i believe it does but ill double check

 

[Calan]

If it doesn't, just pick up pipe thread sealer from any hardware store, Autozone, Home Depot, etc. Teflon tape will also work, but I prefer this: Loctite PST Thread Sealant Sticks 37615

It's a bit pricey, but it goes on clean, works great, and one tube will last forever. (I think I've had the same one for at least 8 years).

Two-way shipping to return the bung will probably cost more than just picking up a new one. Check the local speed/racing or fab shops, or ask someone in a regional forum if they have one they could let go of for cheap (They are usually only about $4-$5). Toss the steel one in a box...it will come in handy some day when you least expect it.

Since I mentioned Summit, here is the bung you need: Summit Racing® Weld-In Bungs SUM-220072

 

[NJBoostedDSM]

If it doesn't, just pick up pipe thread sealer from any hardware store, Autozone, Home Depot, etc. Teflon tape will also work, but I prefer sealer.

Two-way shipping to return the bung will probably cost more than just picking up one locally. Check the local speed/racing shops, or ask someone in a regional forum if they have one they could let go of for cheap (They are usually only about $4-$5). Toss the steel one in a box...it will come in handy some day when you least expect it.

kk cool thanks a lot!!

 

[Calan]

Check the edits I made.

 

[NJBoostedDSM]

Check the edits I made.

your amazing haha thanks! im going to buy that one tomorrow when i get home!

 

[NJBoostedDSM]

Check the edits I made.

so ECMtuning is sending me a replacement for free so thats good! They're great there, but the IAT sensor did have that red coating but i just tried screwing it into the bung to see what it would look like it just came off so im going to buy the one in the link you gave me, and i just rub it onto there until its fully covered and let it dry correct?

 

[Calan]

You just put some on the threads, starting one or two threads up from the bottom and going about 3/4 around. It doesn't take much.

You can find that sealant in lots of stores, which will be cheaper due to shipping. I would only buy it from Summit if you are getting other stuff from them at the same time and can justify the shipping costs.

 

[NJBoostedDSM]

You just put some on the threads, starting one or two threads up from the bottom and going about 3/4 around. It doesn't take much.

You can find that sealant in lots of stores, which will be cheaper due to shipping. I would only buy it from Summit if you are getting other stuff from them at the same time and can justify the shipping costs.

So my pipe was actually steel not aluminum but the welder im having do it is using an tig welder thats good right?

 

[e85spyder]

So you should use the steel bung. Also ECM makes a direct plug and play kit for 2g's so you dont have to hardwire anything.

 

[NJBoostedDSM]

So you should use the steel bung. Also ECM makes a direct plug and play kit for 2g's so you dont have to hardwire anything.

that comes with the SD bundle?

 

[e85spyder]

The steel bung should, as far as the plug and play harness you have to purchase it seperatly.

 

[NJBoostedDSM]

The steel bung should, as far as the plug and play harness you have to purchase it seperatly.

okay cool i found it but whats the point of it? if i every want to drive without it or something?

 

[e85spyder]

No its so that you dont have to cut and splice any wires togather. Its just a direct plug and play from your stock MAF connector to the speed density setup connections.