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Some odds and ends (added physical pics instead of FB link and more pics too)

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turboglenn

15+ Year Contributor
6,375
123
Nov 5, 2007
RIpley, West Virginia
I hope you guys can see these, if not let me know and i'll rehost them on another site nad link them direct, but here's my mobile upload page, it's got some stuff i snapped with the blackberry for FB while working out in the shop


Scroll further down i tool all pics from previouse link and posted em direct as well as adding some more stuff
 
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Glenn, tells me contents currently unavailable. Anyhow, glad to see you back to posting. Missed your comments.
 
I have no facebook too LOL but they work for me nice job glenn,also some cool equipment too.
 
Thanks Everyone, since the progression of my injuries i've had to make this fab work and motorcycle/car repair and customizing my full time gig, putting the construction aside completely (use to be about 70% construction income 30% fab/car bike stuff)

Here's the pics linked and more with some text to them

Welded a large cast elbow to a 1g NT TB, then ground and semi-polished it (just mounted it and made new IC pipes all around the other day)
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another view of it
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Over-all view of new piping
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side view of it and moved DIS-II (wanna bring it in cabin with other electronics)
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this is the new upper with a flange for the SSQ that i had to make because i only had a steel one
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here's the flange being made
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4g63 SMIM flange i made the other night for a plenum i made about 3-4 years back LOL
step1
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step 2
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still working, many steps later :p
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about done, still need to smooth angles around upper bolt holes and inlet corners
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backside (no dykem on it)
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Here's a friends bike i've done a LOT on.. i back halved it from a bike tire to a car tire, made all the adapters, including the sprocket, and brake disk adapters and the spacer that holds them and the axle bearings to the car wheel/tire combo, also tig'ed the 4130 for the gsxr tail and the lower half of the frame for this newer engine (been a 5-6 year work in progress)
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close up of brake disk (tryin to convince him to let me slot and drill that damn disk, finally he has agreed)
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the adapters to run all his old gearing on the new tire/rim combo (i didn't thin the sprocket, the last machinist/fab guy did that, i just made the paltes to "sandwich it" to the adapter i made on the new rim
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and a purposely heat oxidized SS intake pipe for a WRX (guy wanted to see if i could make it look like what he saw in a magazine, now i'm doing all new IC pipes on the compelte car i'm pretty sure, waiting on the SS to arrive)
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and last for today, a new chuck adapter i made from the same 1/2'' 6061-t6 plate i made the SMIM flange from for my 8" rotary table (wanting to get a straight 8" 4 jaw independant chuck forit soon)
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Damn b ut you do beautiful work. I can only dream about being that talented.
 
Thanks man, metal working was something that when i first took it in high school, i knew i found one of the things that i was just meant to do. It's the only thing where i can put a 12+ hour day in and never get sick of it and wanna go do something else... If i'm not busy with a friend, or doing something that's one of life's required duties, i'm in the shop, mostly milling, with welding and plasma cutting being the next most preffered tasks...tryin to make something sick dfor myself, or just playing with technique.

Ill spend 3 hours making a part i can buy for 20 bucks that was done on a CNC at some big company just because it's something I made myself and even if it's not as pretty in some way or another i'm just sorta connected to it.. I build 1/5th scale RC engines like a mad man too..blockinh off stock intake ports, adding extra trasnfer ports for reed case induction, miling the heads off and making swappable combustion domes with seperate cooling shells... anything i'm into hobby wise will get tied into my fabbing in some form or another.. well , i keep the love makin strictly on a flesh level for the most part though :p
 
Wish you the best with the rest of the progress of your injuries but your work is really something man. But I was in the need of some custom fab work done in the near future and your local = :hellyeah:
 
Sent ya my contact info, come by and say hi sometime
 
Here's a few more i took with my phone tonight (both it and my normal camer are both only 2 megapixel :( )

it's a 3" SS down pipe for a CRX with a Borg Warner turbo (not sure what the number/size is still but it's fargin big) Car should make 500hp according to the person who built the engine and put together the combination of parts (i am hired on for the fab work of the hot and cold piping, some custom mounts for the radiator and throttle cable as well as a little tuning of the hon-data before it goes to the dyno for it's WOT session)

The car is street legal with a 2 1/4" HKS exhaust on it from the previouse owner and the new oener decide to keep it for daily driving and just isntall an electric cut out/dump (a.k.a. helicopter wastegate) to open up under WOT triggered by a reconfigured output on the hondata system. Instead of bottle necking down the nice DP to 2.250" I decided to make a 4.5" test pipe that will have a 3" v band on one end and the HKS flange on the other (makes it where i dont' have to mark and weld the flanges in perfect alignment, which makes installation much easier) which is why you see the extra piece of pipe and flange on tthe table..the V-band setup is over at the bandsaw getting some length taken off the flange (came with a foot of pipe on one side that has a wide radius 90 bend on it, and a 3" - 3bolt flange on the other side) YOu may notice there's no tape or anything for back-purging the SS pipe, that's because of the small can of Solar-Flux-B on the table, mix it with a little methanol, spread it on the isnide of the joint 1" to either side and it does every bit as good of a job (and that's probably why it's almost 60 bucks for that litle can - comes from the pipe fitting world On the lower left corner of the makeshift welding table you'll see a dark spot that looks wet, that's where i put some on the table then mix a little heet with it via the light blue tooth brush (top right) and apply it to the pipe... almost just like flux on an Arc welding stick
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Here's a joint with only about 3-4 dabs of filler added to it, that's been brushed clean( the Flex had that nasty chunky fella on it from the get-go LOL )
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And this one i snapped a pic of before i brushed it, jsut to give an idea of the heat range i was workin in, a little hot, yea, but still well within the acceptable range for a good SS joint. I was averaging about 35-40 amps at most during these welds, the machine was set to 70 amps DC and i only ever needed about 3/4th pedal to get the puddle wetted up and spread the first aplication of filler, then i'd back down to about under half, run a 3/4" bead, move 1/3rd the way around the pipe and continue (if you just lay into thin pipe like this and run one continuouse bead after you're done tacking it you'll smoke the metal pretty easily)
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And heres the junction of the 3 inch "v-splice" where the cut out will be mounted (for anyone who's mesed with hondas, i had to set it up where the electric motor on the dump is on the opposite side of the shfiter rods mounted vertically directly beside the OEM o2 sensor is. The reason it faces directly upwards is to keep it protected and out of the way of anything that might cause it damage during it's steet duty )

Besides the pipe to flange welds this was the only area that i actually got to use some filler rod on. On the rest of the DP I went with ER309L since i had no spec on what alloy of SS the flex piece or the flanges were in relation to the pipe used to make the V and the other parts which were all t304 bends and straight (typical vibrant bends but some much nicer industrial straight stuff the customer provided that his father got him from his work) THis is the one area where I used a max of about 65 amps.. I like having just a tad more than i know i'll need in the worst case scenario. Also everything was done with 1/16th Thoriated tungsten adn 1/16th ER309L, except this joint which was donw with 308 because I knew they were the same alloy of stainless being connected, and the weld shows the difference
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Man I'm liking the intercooler piping for the wrx. I'm somewhat local and would like new upper piping made in ss.
 
THanks, I'm growin kinda partial to it myself! It took a lot of gas to get it that colot because i had to heat it really slow over a long period of time to keep from cooking it straight to a dark color that's mostly brown and grey, Even trying to duplicate it has turned out to be a real bi*** because if the oxy/fuel mix isn't just right it comes out different and even the type of stianless and what it was polished with turns out to be making a difference in how the coloring comes out. I'm looking into trying to get a group of local people interested in the coloration going so that i can pool together the funds and buy the last few things i need to do it with the electrochemical process, but i still need about 400 dollars to put straight to that not counting the chemicals and containers i need to do it that i can buy locally. The other pipe i'm building (the really long upper one) is something like 400+ online, and for me to get the stainless and just barely enough chemical to do that pipe comes out to like 230 shipped to me, so hopefully he finds that 100 bucks off what he'd pay online (after my labor) is worth doing so i can dabble in stainless coloring a little bit to get pics to help get others interested. IT's the type of coloration like you see on motorcycle mufflers that looks ike heat coloring but is just way too vivid to really be done that way
 
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