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Soft paint

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brassnuts911

10+ Year Contributor
49
0
Mar 17, 2009
Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin
He guys I've done some painting on my eclipse before and I've always noticed that when I'm done I'm always able to scratch it beacuse IT SEEMS SOFT. I pre-sand, I use this rattle can primer that's for plastic, one or two coats of the color form the rattle can and 2 coats of clear coat.

What I'm trying to do guys is get that rock hard finish like my car that will protect it, like body of the car. What am I forgetting? Hardener? Additives? I would love to learn how to do this the right way, Mostly beacuse I'm painting my center light.

I do have a spray gun and compressor.
 
I asked that same question to a body shop buddy of mine and he told me to use less spray. All of the layers is making them too thick and easy to scratch off because the first layers are not able to dry enough. What he told me to do is CLEAN it, scuff it, adhesive promoter, then light coat, let dry till tacky, then a medium coat. When the piece is 100% covered in paint stop let it dry. Then your done.
 
Ok I talked to the guy at car quest today and he showed me this special type of clear coat that drys hard.....but I will be taking your advice. Thx
 
1. You're rattle-canning it.
2. Plastic Primer?
3. If you aren't baking the finished product, paint can take several days to cure, especially sitting in a garage.
 
Can you explain how i could bake this plastic? And i use primer this is made for plastic.

So i painted tonight with the paint i got from car quest and this bazzar reaction occured where the places that where painted bubbled up in stars and i it was easy scratched away PERFECTLY clean down to the light. You guys all say take it to a shop but i wanted to learn how to do this.

What happend?
 
you used a "hotter" paint and it reacted with the cheaper paint under it melting it, the best thing to do would be strip it down to bare plastic using a real solvent paint thinner "not cheap stuff you buy at walmart". If needed get a metal pan and soak the peaces and clean with a toothbrush just don't let them soak to long it will melt the plastic. After it is stripped the solvent thinner will also remove all the wax and such so all you will need to do is a light coat of adhesive promoter and your color coat
 
i am in college for auto body. you need to remove paint all the way to bare plastic i wouldnt use a stripped it can wrinkle the plastic. and rattle can clear is a cheap clear ### the ingreadients are already mixed. you need to DEFF use adhison premotor. then 2 coats of primer. then 2 of paint. then 2 of clear and in cold enviorment it can take days for the clear to fully set up. when we "bake" them they are in a pait booth that heats to 140deg for like 15min then its fully hard it just means high heat for short period to fully dry. let the solvents fully leave the paint before you drive with it or it will stay soft and be more likely to get nasty

the reason it bubbled was you didnt allow enofe time for the solvents to leave that is it rising and it was trapped so it bubbles just gota let more time to dry and make sure the products are compatable with each other
 
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