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So i got this 97 GST

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jahjahSQC

10+ Year Contributor
101
1
Jul 17, 2008
Winder, Georgia
So I've got a 1997 Eclipse GST 5spd. Got it froma friend. Traded for him my 1986 Built starion. He's told me a couple things and i'm not 100% sure hes got his stuff straight.

Heres a list of known mods.

Rebuilt stock motor
-New OEM rods
-New OEM piston
-New OEM crank
-New Rebuilt head
Big 16g turbo from Evo3
CX Racing Turbo Manifold
CX Racing Intercooler Kit w/BOV
Coil on plug setup
Cold air intake
New timing belt
Mookeeh three pillar pod with new gauges

When we pulled it off the trailor i drove it down the street and it drove okay, had a CEL on and oil pressure gauges didnt work, but it drove and ideled fine nonetheless. He told me the oil dipstick popped out and spewed oil, and i plan on buying a new dipstick and pinching the tube, also replacing the PCV with an oem one. I also am gonna add a re-circ line for the bov thats on it. I pulled the intercooler pipes off to clean them and noticed the turbo had some shaft play and i've got another 16g on order.

So heres why he traded it. After he rebuilt the car he had a balance shaft lock up on him and he promtly removed it and did a BSE. He flushed the oil a few times by running it and doing quick oil changes, say 50 miles or so. and he never saw anything alarming. Well i plan to Daily drive this thing so i plan on pulling the pan and making sure nothing as damaged. Whats the easiest way to do this?

thats the only mechanical problem this car has that i know of. So i wanna make sure its in good shape. i'd hate to ruin a new OEM Crank and stuff
 
Drain the oil and see if there are any shavings, flakes or silver color in the oil. If not, pull the pan and inspect the pan. If you find nothing, change the oil and check it again in 50 miles or so.
 
-New OEM crank
Big 16g turbo from Evo3
CX Racing Turbo Manifold
CX Racing Intercooler Kit w/BOV
Coil on plug setup
Cold air intake
New timing belt
Why did he put a new crank in it?
Real or eBay 16G?
May want to check that manifold for cracks
May want to check that BOV being a POS..
COP, really?
Cold air intake, really?
i plan on buying a new dipstick and pinching the tube
Oh good, band aids instead of repair!
i've got another 16g on order.
eBay or real? Which one?
Well i plan to Daily drive this thing so i plan on pulling the pan and making sure nothing as damaged. Whats the easiest way to do this?
You..pull the pan!

Pick up a logger and do a compression test.
 
Well that means pressure is built up somewhere and needs to be relieved. Dont just do a temp fix. Find the problem and solve it. I think you picked up a lemon bro.
 
Drain the oil and see if there are any shavings, flakes or silver color in the oil. If not, pull the pan and inspect the pan. If you find nothing, change the oil and check it again in 50 miles or so.
No, hes already done 3 oil changes in 200 miles or so and found no shavings I wanna make sure the crank and rods are okay. I'm asking whats the easiest way to pull the pan is. My friend told me theres a way to drop that center crossmember and yank the pan from there, but he wasn't sure.

Why did he put a new crank in it?
Real or eBay 16G?
May want to check that manifold for cracks
May want to check that BOV being a POS..
COP, really?
Cold air intake, really?
One i removed was en ebay 16g
Manifold has no cracks, i cleaned it and painted it with some VHT
bov does not leak, I'm sure its a knock off, but it works well enough for now. If i see a problem with it then i'll fix it in the future
Yes, he installed Coil on plugs. is that a problem? It'd be nice to give me advice instead of just repeating my list. I know little about the 4G63s and the common mods people do.
Well thats what he called it, its just a aluminim intake pipe the same size as the original.
Oh good, band aids instead of repair!
Well according to this website's FAQ and everywhere i read... People say the O-rings on the dipstick gets hard and no longer seals. And the one on thids car has hardened up and flattened out. I'm also going to replace the PCV valve b/c i'm pretty sure he's got some junk parts store one on there now.
eBay or real? Which one?
Replacement will be a MHI 16G i'm getting from a friend locally. Even if i wnated to risk a chinese ebay one... I understand the risks.
You..pull the pan!
Well doi. Can i drop the crossmember or do i need to pull the motor? how bout some advice, eh?
Pick up a logger and do a compression test.
you mean data logger? and I've already got a bunch of stuff out like pipes and manifold/turbo and all that, i'm gonna check the bearings before i drive it anywhere.

Well that means pressure is built up somewhere and needs to be relieved. Dont just do a temp fix. Find the problem and solve it. I think you picked up a lemon bro.

Possibly, and i'm gonna look further into the pressure problem after i can verify that running the car will not destroy the rotating assy. :) On the starions theres a few things people always check before assuming its blowby, other than dipsstick and PCV is there anything (not blowby) that could cause a pressure problem? thanks

I LOVE the 2g :) I've always wanted one and working on cars is no big deal for me. I just came here looking for direction.

I've never heard of anyone who shelled out for a complete set of new OEM 7-bolt weak-ass rods.


Carry on.
Well i suppose you have now. He had a friend who worked at a dealer and he bought a NEW OEM crank, Rods and Pistons. He aquired this car by trading a car he got for free. So, he basicly got the car for free. So he deicded just to do a stock rebuild. He says he has reciepts for all of it and i'll be getting them from him shortly
 
One i removed was en ebay 16g...Replacement will be a MHI 16G i'm getting from a friend locally. Even if i wnated to risk a chinese ebay one... I understand the risks.
He had a friend who worked at a dealer and he bought a NEW OEM crank, Rods and Pistons.
Soooooo.....he had his "friend" buy him all new Mitsu internals at a discounted price, but opted to go for a $200 eBay 16G instead of a MHI unit at a discounted price.

Makes sense. :rolleyes:
 
OK so to remove the oil pan it is necessary to drop the cross member. on my 1G i had to also disconnect the down pipe. its all pretty simple just a little time consuming. all the cx racing stuff is knock off stuff but i have nothing but good about there stuff except for there turbos so you should be good. recirculating the bov is a really good idea also. let me know what you find.
 
A built Starion for a DSM? :confused:

What i would do to even see with my own two eyes in person a well built Starquest.

If he doesn't give you the receipts for all those new OEM parts id get my car back.
 
Soooooo.....he had his "friend" buy him all new Mitsu internals at a discounted price, but opted to go for a $200 eBay 16G instead of a MHI unit at a discounted price.

Makes sense. :rolleyes:

dude, really? Yes, his friend gave him employee pricing because he doesn't trust aftermarket internals. And he wanted a cheap upgrade turbo.

If ya don't have the experience necessary to offer advice, I understand. But ya don't gotta troll up your post count

OK so to remove the oil pan it is necessary to drop the cross member. on my 1G i had to also disconnect the down pipe. its all pretty simple just a little time consuming. all the cx racing stuff is knock off stuff but i have nothing but good about there stuff except for there turbos so you should be good. recirculating the bov is a really good idea also. let me know what you find.
thanks! thats about what i thought.

A built Starion for a DSM? :confused:

What i would do to even see with my own two eyes in person a well built Starquest.

If he doesn't give you the receipts for all those new OEM parts id get my car back.

Yes i traded my starion that need an interior and some body work for his car because I've always wanted a 2G. Starions aren't worth much and even though mine was heavily modded i was cool with the trade. what the hell does this even mean "What i would do to even see with my own two eyes in person a well built Starquest."... are you saying that theres no such thing as a heavily modded starquest? or... that no one would be interested in one?

The guy I got the car from is a friend. I trust him. if I don't get the receipts I'm not going to cry about it. I'm just going to drive it around as is, and do a real build later.

I appreciate the couple guys who were a big help, but the rest of you guys are trolls. I don't get it, I thought this forum was supposed to help new people. Are you guys trying to run me off when I have legitimate questions and concerns?
 
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Too much quoting so I'm just going to address stuff and you'll figure out where it goes.

Re:
16G - Makes sense then that it's broken.
Manifold - Give it time, eBay manifolds tend to crack when they're..driven. Just keep checking up on it.
BOV - Is it recirculated? This may have been answered and I tl;dr'd it, if so I apologize. If it works, coold.
COP - Depending on the setup, I'd probably go back to good old spark plug wires. COP is..well I'd say just unnecessary but dsmonster is going to come in here and pull up an example of someone gaining 3 HP with it.
CAI - It's a turbocharged car, is it a REAL CAI or just a hard intake pipe? CAI is a term thrown around a lot by the kind of people that buy eBay turbos.
Dipstick - Yes, the orings go bad, so you replace the dipstick. Pinching the tube is the bandaid. Blowby enough to do this can also be a good sign of a failed PCV system (which you're fixing, good) or excessive blowby due to worn rings. The compression test will show you the way.
Logger - Yes, data logger, it'll make things much easier when you have problems.

Everything else was addressed, good luck.
 
Too much quoting so I'm just going to address stuff and you'll figure out where it goes.

Re:
16G - Makes sense then that it's broken.
Manifold - Give it time, eBay manifolds tend to crack when they're..driven. Just keep checking up on it.
BOV - Is it recirculated? This may have been answered and I tl;dr'd it, if so I apologize. If it works, coold.
COP - Depending on the setup, I'd probably go back to good old spark plug wires. COP is..well I'd say just unnecessary but dsmonster is going to come in here and pull up an example of someone gaining 3 HP with it.
CAI - It's a turbocharged car, is it a REAL CAI or just a hard intake pipe? CAI is a term thrown around a lot by the kind of people that buy eBay turbos.
Dipstick - Yes, the orings go bad, so you replace the dipstick. Pinching the tube is the bandaid. Blowby enough to do this can also be a good sign of a failed PCV system (which you're fixing, good) or excessive blowby due to worn rings. The compression test will show you the way.
Logger - Yes, data logger, it'll make things much easier when you have problems.

Everything else was addressed, good luck.

Thats sad.. But so true.
 
May I suggest not calling jusmx141 a troll.... He has loads of great information, becoming a wiseman is not an overnight thing....I'm sure you'll need his help eventually...

Thinking you'll save money by buying a cheap turbo is foolish....you'll buy 10 of them eBay turbos before even 1 of the genuine turbos will blow

don't pinch the dipstick....a good motor will blow out a bad dipstick, and a bad motor will blow out a good dipstick...

+1 on re-circ the BOV, MHI Turbo and OEM pcv
 
I should add now that he's one of my favorite people and I in no way meant it as a slight against him, he's very helpful and knows his stuff.
 
Too much quoting so I'm just going to address stuff and you'll figure out where it goes.

Re:
16G - Makes sense then that it's broken.
Manifold - Give it time, eBay manifolds tend to crack when they're..driven. Just keep checking up on it.
BOV - Is it recirculated? This may have been answered and I tl;dr'd it, if so I apologize. If it works, coold.
COP - Depending on the setup, I'd probably go back to good old spark plug wires. COP is..well I'd say just unnecessary but dsmonster is going to come in here and pull up an example of someone gaining 3 HP with it.
CAI - It's a turbocharged car, is it a REAL CAI or just a hard intake pipe? CAI is a term thrown around a lot by the kind of people that buy eBay turbos.
Dipstick - Yes, the orings go bad, so you replace the dipstick. Pinching the tube is the bandaid. Blowby enough to do this can also be a good sign of a failed PCV system (which you're fixing, good) or excessive blowby due to worn rings. The compression test will show you the way.
Logger - Yes, data logger, it'll make things much easier when you have problems.

Everything else was addressed, good luck.

16g- yup
Maniflod- will keep an eye, especialy since it'll be daily driven. Thanks
Bov- will be.
Cop- If its causing a problem it'll definitely get pulled.
Cai- yeah I guess I called it that ### he did, but its just an hard intake pipe
Dipstick- okay. Pinching=ghetto fix. Cool
Logger- whats a good logger? I plan on running an Megasquirt 2 after a while so is there a simpler alternative?

May I suggest not calling jusmx141 a troll.... He has loads of great information, becoming a wiseman is not an overnight thing....I'm sure you'll need his help eventually...

Thinking you'll save money by buying a cheap turbo is foolish....you'll buy 10 of them eBay turbos before even 1 of the genuine turbos will blow

don't pinch the dipstick....a good motor will blow out a bad dipstick, and a bad motor will blow out a good dipstick...

+1 on re-circ the BOV, MHI Turbo and OEM pcv

Well I'm sorry if I hurt jusmx141's feelings. I guess I got defensive. But ya know what? My friend built this the way he wanted to, Its not the way I build cars. Its what my friend told me and its what I'm gonna go by for now. Its not like he told me the motor was built and can make a million horsepower. And I believed him. I don't care what was done to the car. Its mine now and I'm in control of whats done here forward.
 
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16g- yup
Maniflod- will keep an eye, especialy since it’ll be daily driven. Thanks
Bov- will be.
Cop- If its causing a problem it’ll definitely get pulled.
Cai- yeah I guess I called it that ### he did, but its just an hard intake pipe
Dipstick- okay. Pinching=ghetto fix. Cool
Logger- whats a good logger? I plan on running an Megasquirt 2 after a while so is there a simpler alternative?



Well I’m sorry if I hurt jusmx141’s feelings. I guess I got defensive. But ya know what? My friend built this the way he wanted to, Its not the way I build cars. Its what my friend told me and its what I’m gonna go by for now. Its not like he told me the motor was built and can make a million horsepower. And I believed him. I don’t care what was done to the car. Its mine now and I’m in control of whats done here forward.

I'm still not 100% positive you know how to build cars period ROFL
 
Rebuilt stock motor
-New OEM rods
-New OEM piston
-New OEM crank
-New Rebuilt head

I really find this suspect. But of course your friend was idiot. This is a really weak build when you can do one better and use evo 8/9 rods and pistons.

Big 16g turbo from Evo3
Looks like your a smart person and have this covered allready.

CX Racing Turbo Manifold
Running till it blows, then put on a 2g/Evo3 mani or a FP Mani.
CX Racing Intercooler Kit w/BOV
You might wanna do a boost leak test if you haven't. As long as it doesn't leak or heat soak your good to go.
Coil on plug setup
Ditch that shit. It's beyond useless. Sell it, get some extra mod money. The stock ignition system is good to around 550-600 horses.

Cold air intake
New timing belt
Mookeeh three pillar pod with new gauges
All good.

So, just keep checking the oil for shavings. If you really wanna drop the oil pan the easiest way is remove the downpipe, and I guess if there is a brace remove that. I dont think I had to. But it might help.

Drop the oil pan.

Find the two shortest bolts and mark them with whiteout. They go on the timing belt edge of the oil pan.

Everything else sounds like your on track and Know wtf is going on.
 
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Maybe you should check the clearances of the bearings when you pull the oil pan..

Im positive you can just pull the cross member off and pull the pan and get to the rods.

While your there, take some pictures and prove people wrong about the OEM crank/pistons/rods ;)
I did a OEM rebuild myself.. but i reused my rods and had them machined and bought a new crank. (used different pistons though)
 
Maybe you should check the clearances of the bearings when you pull the oil pan..

Im positive you can just pull the cross member off and pull the pan and get to the rods.

While your there, take some pictures and prove people wrong about the OEM crank/pistons/rods ;)
I did a OEM rebuild myself.. but i reused my rods and had them machined and bought a new crank. (used different pistons though)

Yup I plan on, I've got All-data here and a hayne's manual at home. Also have some plastigauge left over from my last engine build.

Yeah i'll take some pictures!. i'll scan the reciepts too! LOL
 
Im positive you can just pull the cross member off and pull the pan and get to the rods.

Youll need to pull the downpipe too, as it passes right under the oil pan. Im not even positive youll need to pull the crossmember, it just holds the front tranny mount. You might be able to get the pan fasteners out without removing it.

If your friend new much or anything about DSMs he would have opted to use 6 bolt OE rods, theyre slighty larger and more durable to higher hp then the shotty 7 bolt rods.
 
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