So i bought my GM MAF and translator

[moliver]

Do i need anything else that needs to be hooked up to make this setup run correctly?

 

[dnhieu]

All u should need is uicp, gm sensor, and gm translator.

eclipse talon laser

 

[GSX4LIFE]

Nope. Thats it. Just plug it all in and start tuning. Hope your supplimenting it with and SAFC or LINK.

 

[Devicex]

You mght want to think about getting some sort of logging tool otherwise I dont know how you plan on tuning with any sence of accuracy.

 

[moliver]

yes, i have a S-AFC II and a datalogger

 

[kambonate]

what if you are running stock 450 cc injectors and just want to run a blow through setup..cant you just zero it out.. or do you still need a logging device?

 

[definitiveno]

Stupid question. Is maft smog legal?

 

[onegee]

You need a logging device regardless even if the car is stock.

You're opening up the airflow of the car.

 

[awdsm drft]

You need a logging device regardless even if the car is stock.

You're opening up the airflow of the car.

The base settings are not very accurate. My idle was extremely lean at idle. Horriblly rich everywhere else. Still haven't successfully tuned it.

Waiting on a WIDEBAND.

 

[onegee]

The base settings are not very accurate. My idle was extremely lean at idle. Horriblly rich everywhere else. Still haven't successfully tuned it.

Waiting on a WIDEBAND.

I was extremely lean at idle as well (I'm at 7 on my idle knob ). I still think I'm nowhere close to a good tune but where I have it now is a good increase of power and throttle response. I have/had the exact same problems you have.

I'm waiting on a WB o2 as well.

 

[awdsm drft]

I was extremely lean at idle as well (I'm at 7 on my idle knob ). I still think I'm nowhere close to a good tune but where I have it now is a good increase of power and throttle response. I have/had the exact same problems you have.

I'm waiting on a WB o2 as well.

What are your settings at? If I add fuel I get fuel cut. If I take fuel out I get knock. Massive pain in the ass.

 

[4sfead]

What are your settings at? If I add fuel I get fuel cut. If I take fuel out I get knock. Massive pain in the ass.

What version Translator do you have? 2.0? If so, are you using the RPM mode to tune for the knock/fuel cut?

Get the base set so your fuel trims are around 100 (dont matter that much) the turn the car off and switch to RPM mode. 2 percent increments in fuel delivery.

You guys have probaby done this already, I just wanted to add it because I have never had much of a problem tuning out the knock on the stock 450's and stock IC. Now I have to start all over with a FMIC, 680's and a Jeff O Chip

 

[onegee]

I'm running v2.01 w/ a 5knob AFC to "simulate" the RPM tuning mode.

My settings:

Base 2 (450cc)
IDLE 7 or 8
MID 2
WOT 2

Trims:

LOW 106%
MID 98 %
High 94%


I hit nasty fuel cut couple days ago in a 4th gear pull and 2nd gear wot run (14psi). I'm just going to chip and install my spare eprom ecu and call it a day already. My car hates these "cold" hawaiian nights. I had the settings setup before with MID at 1 and WOT at 2 and I was running sluggish. I richen it up and the car gets faster but hits fuel cut.

awdsm drft - I feel your pain.

 

[sweet97]

Try leaving the settings on 1 for mid and 2 for wot. That gives you a sluggish feeling, that is at partial throttle or WOT? You are lean at that sluggish time anyways correct? You add the mid setting from 1 to 2 and get fuel cut. That confuses me because MID knob is for the transition from no boost until a few lbs. of boost are met. You have 450cc inj's? Set the WOT knob on "0" and make fuel adjustments with your AFPR. We get fuel cut when the ECU "SEES" too much air. I would set the translator like you have it except set the MID & WOT on "0" since you have stock 450cc injectors. I can't help with the afc but the (if you have one) upgraded fuel pump and AFPR are great tuning aids. If you have stock injectors what are you trying to accomplish? I guess I need a bit more info to try to help ot. I can tell you when you richen the fuel the ECU sees more air and too much air is what causes the fuel cut. Get the extra feul with a Walbro 255 and an AFPR. I like the AFPR that fullthrottlespeed.com sells as it is a bolt on deal. Mark

 

[sweet97]

You guys with 1G's should look around for a Scanmaster, it runs around $229. to $249. It is a great aid in tning. It will show 02 votake and knock sum while you are driving in real time. You can log with it but I do not. There are about 15 peces of data you can see while driving like timing advance. I know we hesitate to sometimes but the things we need the mosy because we want to buy go fast things but if the motor is not tuned and ou do not know what is goig on i the motor you have less chance going quicker and a better chance to ruin the motor or turbo.
I have a good boost gauge.
A wideband A/F
The scanmaster
EGT gauge
the translator
Walbro 255 and a nice bolt on AFPR
If I have a good setting bt some knock and the next level cures the knock but I get fuel cut then I go back to the settig that had some knock. Adjust the base fuel pressure higher, lean it out where I don't need the extra fuel and have that extra fuel for my WOT running that needed fuel but not have the ECU see more air to get the fuel!!Mark

 

[4sfead]

Try leaving the settings on 1 for mid and 2 for wot. That gives you a sluggish feeling, that is at partial throttle or WOT? You are lean at that sluggish time anyways correct? You add the mid setting from 1 to 2 and get fuel cut. That confuses me because MID knob is for the transition from no boost until a few lbs. of boost are met. You have 450cc inj's? Set the WOT knob on "0" and make fuel adjustments with your AFPR. We get fuel cut when the ECU "SEES" too much air. I would set the translator like you have it except set the MID & WOT on "0" since you have stock 450cc injectors. I can't help with the afc but the (if you have one) upgraded fuel pump and AFPR are great tuning aids. If you have stock injectors what are you trying to accomplish? I guess I need a bit more info to try to help ot. I can tell you when you richen the fuel the ECU sees more air and too much air is what causes the fuel cut. Get the extra feul with a Walbro 255 and an AFPR. I like the AFPR that fullthrottlespeed.com sells as it is a bolt on deal. Mark

Yes what he said. Your fuel trims look very good.
Set the WOT and MID knobs to Zero. The way you have it now you are adding 10percent more airflow to WOT. On cold nights that will cause fuel cut. I've done it.

I am not sure about the Old AFC. I only tune with the MAFT. My settings for my MAFT for Base tuning were all at zero except for the injector sizing and Idle knob. Then in RPM mode I would richen up the WOT and MID knobs 2 percent or so in warmer weather. With large Temp changes you have to make adjustments to your settings.

Also, the Scanmaster is basically another Datalogger which he already has.

 

[sweet97]

True the Scanmaster is another way to log but I can see what is happening as I am making a pull throgh the gears rather than use a palm which I found to be difficult and awkward to use. A good fuel pump with an adjustable regulator are great aids to tuning. mark

 

[awdsm drft]

Part of my problem is that none of my fuel trims will read other than the o2 trim which seems to cycle around 140% while cruising.

The car will not run with everything zeroed out at 450cc injector sizing on the base knob. Leaning out the idle 35% just gets it to idle but it smells horribly rich and has a bad miss. Driving around after those settings is laughable. Backfires are normal. Lots of chopiness and part throttle stuff is a joke. Wide open has zero power has a horrible hesitation then slams fuel cut.

I have since made every possible combination of adjustments including all base adjustments I could make that would keep the car running. Nothing improved it enough to warrent keeping the piece on the car.

 

[sweet97]

If you are running rich then lean the base. Set it at 4 and try it, then 6 and try again if needed and then 8. The base setting of 2 for a 1G is just a recommended starting point to get the car running. The base does affect the idle, mid and WOT so get the base dialed in first with the other knobs at 0. Just get the high trim as close to 100 as you can, do not worry about the low or mid trims. Make sure ALL of the mode switches are OFF! unless you are running a 3.5" from a LS1 motor. Then the #2 switch should be on. The translator is to primarily run lager injectors than stock. Unless you hace an automatic your use of the translator will be for more airflow for now.
Set the base to a higher number and that will lean the a/f across the rpm range. Once you have te car running decently adjust te idle which should not need to be on anytong but 0 if you have the base set correctly. In fact that would be a good indication you have the base set well, when the idle is decent on 0. The MID knob is for the transition area from no boost until about 5 psi. WOT speaks for itself and if you are raising your stock bost setting you can richen the WOT knob for extra fuel. What do you have to log with? this is not difficult once you get a feel for it. like I said start the car with all knobs on 0 except for the base which you should continue to raise until you get a good idle with the idle knob on 0. Mark

 

[awdsm drft]

If you are running rich then lean the base. Set it at 4 and try it, then 6 and try again if needed and then 8. The base setting of 2 for a 1G is just a recommended starting point to get the car running. The base does affect the idle, mid and WOT so get the base dialed in first with the other knobs at 0. Just get the high trim as close to 100 as you can, do not worry about the low or mid trims. Make sure ALL of the mode switches are OFF! unless you are running a 3.5" from a LS1 motor. Then the #2 switch should be on. The translator is to primarily run lager injectors than stock. Unless you hace an automatic your use of the translator will be for more airflow for now.
Set the base to a higher number and that will lean the a/f across the rpm range. Once you have te car running decently adjust te idle which should not need to be on anytong but 0 if you have the base set correctly. In fact that would be a good indication you have the base set well, when the idle is decent on 0. The MID knob is for the transition area from no boost until about 5 psi. WOT speaks for itself and if you are raising your stock bost setting you can richen the WOT knob for extra fuel. What do you have to log with? this is not difficult once you get a feel for it. like I said start the car with all knobs on 0 except for the base which you should continue to raise until you get a good idle with the idle knob on 0. Mark

...come on now. I've got my idle set at 8 on the base two settings. You're saying that if my base setting was correct I should not have to adjust the idle? Okay fair enough let's go richen up the idle.....oh wait. The richest base setting is 430cc. I already expained none of my fuel trims will read.

 

[onegee]

Hey awdsm,

I dont think I missed the info, but did you replace your o2 sensor? A dead or dying o2 sensor reads almost 139% across the board most of the time. Or if you have a blinky light o2 gauge, try disconnecting it. I left my wire from my old o2 gauge and it grounded out causing my o2s to not cycle at all. I'm also going to pull my plugs tonight to see if that might be the problem, maybe they might have blown open a bit causing a wrong gap.



As far as the tuning thing, I think I have a boost leak causing my car to cut. I got fuel cut at 9psi the other night in a 2nd gear pull going on to the onramp. Id rather not use base fuel pressure to cure the problem, thats more of a last resort. I have it already raised a bit @ 39psi and rather not go much higher than that. I'm getting very good timing (18-21) most of the time with the ocassional 15-16. My 5knob AFC acts just like the MAFT would in RPM mode.

My mods are in my profile btw.

 

[onegee]

Try leaving the settings on 1 for mid and 2 for wot. That gives you a sluggish feeling, that is at partial throttle or WOT? You are lean at that sluggish time anyways correct? You add the mid setting from 1 to 2 and get fuel cut. That confuses me because MID knob is for the transition from no boost until a few lbs. of boost are met. You have 450cc inj's? Set the WOT knob on "0" and make fuel adjustments with your AFPR. We get fuel cut when the ECU "SEES" too much air. I would set the translator like you have it except set the MID & WOT on "0" since you have stock 450cc injectors. I can't help with the afc but the (if you have one) upgraded fuel pump and AFPR are great tuning aids. If you have stock injectors what are you trying to accomplish? I guess I need a bit more info to try to help ot. I can tell you when you richen the fuel the ECU sees more air and too much air is what causes the fuel cut. Get the extra feul with a Walbro 255 and an AFPR. I like the AFPR that fullthrottlespeed.com sells as it is a bolt on deal. Mark

I have a rewired 255HP and the same AFPR you recommended, great product.

I get fuel cut when using the WOT knob. I had it at 3 but bumped it down to 2, just haven't had a chance to make a run after I did the changes. I initally used my AFC to tune first, took those settings, and transfered the percentages over to the maft and zero'd out the afc. Now I use the afc for fine tuning, if I ever get this thing running perfect haha.

What do you mean if I have the stock injectors what am I trying to accomplish? The obvious answer is run 14psi at WOT in any gear and not go lean while not hitting fuel cut, no knock, and 16-21 TMA .

 

[sweet97]

...come on now. I've got my idle set at 8 on the base two settings. You're saying that if my base setting was correct I should not have to adjust the idle? Okay fair enough let's go richen up the idle.....oh wait. The richest base setting is 430cc. I already expained none of my fuel trims will read.

Please correct me but I took it that you were running too rich. Is that correct? If so then set the base at a higher number than 2 and that will lean you across the board. Once you can run decently with your base setting then set the idle. You may have to set the idle above the 0 as I have found that I idle lean no matter what injectors I am running. I have had 550's, 660, and 720's. Again set the first knob to a 4 or 5 and set the idle, then take it for a spin to see if it still is rich. It will take a couple days for the high trim to set itself. It is a good idea to remove the negative battery cable to clear the trims in the ecu now. www.fullthrottletech.com has a sticky by KYLE who is the translator guru besides BOB the creator. Follow kyles instructions and you should be fne. You definetly need to lean out the mixture from the sound of things. Get it running decent without boost and a good idle, then procees for boost. Mark

 

[onegee]

80% sure he has a dead o2 sensor.

 

[4sfead]

Part of my problem is that none of my fuel trims will read other than the o2 trim which seems to cycle around 140% while cruising.

The car will not run with everything zeroed out at 450cc injector sizing on the base knob. Leaning out the idle 35% just gets it to idle but it smells horribly rich and has a bad miss. Driving around after those settings is laughable. Backfires are normal. Lots of chopiness and part throttle stuff is a joke. Wide open has zero power has a horrible hesitation then slams fuel cut.

I have since made every possible combination of adjustments including all base adjustments I could make that would keep the car running. Nothing improved it enough to warrent keeping the piece on the car.

Does is stall when you push in the clutch rolling to a stoplight? You say it smells really rich? Bad Chip IMHO.

Do you happen to have the 1.3 chip?

Where did you get the Translator?

I dont think it would run that bad even with a dead O2 sensor. You probably have a bad chip, A few of us had those right when 2.0 first came out. Talk to Mike and get a new chip first (should be free, mine was) then see about changing the O2 Sensor.

When I first got my 2.0 chip it did the same thing you describe, right down to the O2 trim not cycling. Contact Mike at Full Throttle Speed and tell him your problem. He will most likely send you a new chip, or you can contact Turbo Bob,or anyone else through this link. He is the programmer.
www.fullthrottletech.com